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John Deere Quik-Tatch hitch on 1655


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#1 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 11:05 AM

About 2-3 years ago I bought used John Deere accessories to fit on my 1655, I got a quick hitch, a 54" blade and the 47" 2-stages snowblower. So far the quick hitch is modified to fit my 1655 (keeping the hood fully openable while the hitch is in place) and I've been using the 54" blade a lot. The 1655 with this blade is REALLY working great for my needs, it's able to push snow full width and more than the blade's height as far as I want and it's able (this impresses me) to remove 2" thick ice 54" wide from asphalt on warmer (-2°C) days. I am now finishing restoring and installing the 47" snowblower, hopefully I'll be able to use it a bit this winter.

 

Is there any interest for informations/pictures of this? So far there were absolutely no modifications to the tractor, I will have to add hydraulic circuits as currently the quick hitch lift is connected instead of the mid-lift which I don't use in winter and the blade angle is manual with 3 positions.

 

BTW you might guess I have chains on rear wheels and a counterweight on the rear hitch to provide traction otherwise I would probably not be able to do as much with the blade. I don't know how heavy it is but while I'm lifting it I hear the relieve valve, it's lifting slowly and without the front hitch installed the front wheels barely touch the ground... It's quite heavy!

 

Anyway, anyone interested?


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#2 James Bosma OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 11:27 AM

Everyone is interested

Where's the picks, we all love pics

:watch_over_fence: 

 

With different projects like this it is nice to see and read how it was done

Someone maybe trying the exact same thing as you have done or something similar


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 11:42 AM

I'd love to see pics of this!


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#4 Cat385B OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 12:21 PM

Lot easier to find attachments if you convert it over to a JD hitch. Details, please.
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#5 spudder OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 04:10 PM

Please post some pictures. I have thought a JD style blade would be a great option for a Massey. The hydraulics can be easily upgraded to support lift/angle operations.

I've always thought the JD front blade design was the best out there!

Tim


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#6 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 08:53 PM

I'll try to give as much information as I can then!

 

The quick hitch I bought was from a 4xx tractor. I don't know yet if from the 420/430 era or from the later 455 and such. I don't think it matters a lot as I did not use the part that attaches directly to the tractor.

 

You may think my design is overkill... This is quite probable as I hate doing things twice and being a software engineer I never know when something I build is strong enough.

 

Here you can see the rough version of the hitch. I think the pivot used to be fixed to the horizontal part, I drilled it all the way from both sides and used 3/4" rod to replace it.

 

There are 2 cuts, on both sides that are optimized to get the implements as close to the tractor as possible without altering the tractor. First you see the cylinder is about 4-6" in front of the tractor. This is to allow the hood to open without touching the hitch at all. Also you can see 2 small round cuts a bit left to the frontmost bolt, this is also to clear the hood when it's opening as it is pretty close to the tractor's frame.

IMG_4822.jpg

 

I welded 1/4x1/2 flatbars on the hitch at top, bottom and front of the frame on both side, the bolts are only used to keep the hitch from "opening". The hitch slides on the frame from the front and is then bolted.

IMG_7305.jpg

 

Here is the hydraulic cylinder bracket fully welded in place. When it's at it's lowest possible position, the tractor lifts it's front end a bit off the ground, this was made to allow the implement to follow the ground on "down going" slopes. It's also helping when scraping ice!

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I know, the round spacers for the top mount of the cylinder are overkill, I used what I had laying around!

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Currently I do not have installed the 3rd spool valve therefore I cannot install the angle cylinder. I made a temporary part to allow me 3 positions for the blade from straight to about 30°. I also made the hitch pin myself as I did not know at the time that they were available this size!

IMG_6069.jpg

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Here is the blade on the tractor as it is sitting tonight. BTW you can see my counterweight installed on the JD 214, it's 3/4 full of concrete bricks! It is made for the cat 0 3pt hitch.

IMG_7300.jpg

 

Here you can see the blade that gets a bit far from the tractor. I did not have much choice to be able to open the hood.

IMG_7301.jpg

 

The hood open, it is not touching the hitch at all and it can be removed. I had to straighten the 2 hooks/hinges that go in the slots at front of the frame but not a lot.

IMG_7302.jpg

 

Here is why the small cut, sometimes the hood gets closer than this as sometimes it hinges closer/further from the frame

IMG_7303.jpg

 

And my current hydraulic setup hooked instead of the mid lift. You can also see I followed the shape of the frame where the starter's positive wire is connected.

IMG_7306.jpg

 

That's where I am so far. The restauration of the 47" snowblower is nearly at the point where I can paint it, I will have to find o-rings to add the 3rd spool valve and then I'll have to modify the PTO shaft as it is too short, it will be lengthened and there is a small modification I will need to make as currently it is not hooking (the balls that keep it on the shaft of the tractor). Lastly, I will make a custom pulley hub with 1" 15t inner splines (bought a union with the splines) to install 2 larger pulleys to slow down the front PTO to JD's speeds. The 1655 is 1:1 with the engine but it's slower on the JD's and I do not want to overspeed the snowblower nor be on too low RPMs and lack power.


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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2018 - 05:36 AM

On the spool o-rings, member ducky has a kit for a 2-spool valve at a good price. You can find the info in this thread, page 7, post #103. I have the Massey valve on Alice at the moment and love it. But I am looking to put a JD 3-spool on this Spring.


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#8 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2018 - 03:09 PM

KennyP : last week I went to the New Holland dealer where I take my Massey Ferguson parts (the parts department director used to work at Massey Ferguson back in the days when the 1655 were selling new!) and I got all the seals for around 20$ (Canadian pesos)!

 

New information, I'll soon be starting to make the parts required to get the right PTO speed. The 1655 has a 1:1 ratio therefore 3600 PTO RPM for 3600 engine RPM. Looking through John Deere documentation I found the impeller on 47" and 54" snowblowers must run at maximum 950RPM. There is a chain reduction on the snowblower, 19T gear (input shaft) to 40T gear (impeller shaft) therefore the tractor's PTO must run at 2000RPM. This information was hard to confirm since there are many different sources of information on the Internet and the old non-quick-hitch 47" were different, I think. To achieve 2000RPM on the front PTO I will make a hub to install pulleys at the shaft under the tractor. The clutch is about 5.5" in diameter therefore I will use 10" pulleys and should get proper RPM. The pulleys will be bolted to the hub therefore if I make a mistake I will easily be able to swap for other diameters.

 

I'll post pictures when this gets started. So far I have a 1" 15T shaft coupler on which I will weld a flange (about 3" diameter) to bolt the pulley on it.


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#9 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2018 - 07:47 AM

Yesterday between 2 coats of POR15 on the impeller, auger and blade I tried the John Deere shaft on the front PTO. Sadly the PTO shaft is too short on the 1655 to allow the female shaft to lock, it's missing around 4mm (3/16") between the "lock groove" and the circlip in front of the pulley. If I remove the snap ring and the following washer, the PTO shaft locks properly. Sadly cannot modify the John Deere shaft to shorten it as it would remove required parts for the locking mechanism.

 

Given I will make a custom pulley hub, I will make it a bit shorter and machine a new groove for the snap ring in the shaft of the 1655. At the same time I plan on replacing all bearings/seals for the PTO, the front axles and the wheels, removing the front axle doesn't seem something too fun!


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#10 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2018 - 07:48 AM

I had to make a tool to remove the front PTO shaft from the axle as I will have to machine a groove in it. The nuts are 2.5", I could not think buying a tool and I was not going to use a pipe wrench on those! Ugly tool made using what I had laying around but it got the job done. My first try was when the tool was more like an open wrench, only the angles without the reinforcing triangles and the closing bent bar but that was not solid enough. I used a 2' breaker bar on which I was standing to break free the rear nut!

 

IMG_7315.jpeg

IMG_7316.jpeg

 

And here are the painted parts so far (POR15). The housing will be repainted Jaune Deere (jaune is French for yellow). The blade is new, I had it copied from the worn out original at a fraction of the cost and the augers were repaired as they were abused

IMG_7310.jpeg

IMG_7312.jpeg


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#11 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2018 - 10:29 PM

Less informative post tonight to show the current status of the snowblower housing. The bottom was replaced completely and I reinforced it because originally the inner and outer parts that I replaced were not welded together, they were on top of each other and the blade's screws kept them together. This is a heavy rusting spot therefore I chose not to replicate this and I added reinforcements to prevent the blade from bending to easily the housing.

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This part was cut off by the previous owner who replaced the original rotation mechanism therefore I had to weld new metal which I will drill a hole into and cut to the proper size once I will get all the parts for the mechanism and I can find where the hole goes.

IMG_7320.jpg

 

The center of the turbine housing was rusted and butchered by the previous owner so I replaced it also

IMG_7322.jpg



#12 Cat385B OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2018 - 10:47 PM

Did the previous owner use that thing to blow back piles of salt?

WTH?

#13 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2018 - 09:23 AM

I think he used it to relocate it's firewood pile

:rolling:


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#14 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2018 - 12:44 PM

Here is a small update of last week's progress, I modified the front PTO shaft to add the snap ring groove

 

Here is the cheap way I used to locate the new groove. Lock the female PTO shaft on the male, add a spacer then lock it in place with a collar. Make sure you can remove and install the female PTO without problems. Get the shaft with the spacer and the locking collar in the lathe chuck, align your grooving tool (1.6mm IIRC) so it will cut pretty close to the end of the space, remove the locking collar and the spacer, install a live center then you are all set! This does not requires a super high precision since the pulley hub will be made to size later

IMG_7339.jpg

 

Here is the female shaft mated to the male with the snap ring in the new groove

IMG_7341.jpg

 

As you can see the groove is not too far from the original one, in fact it seems moved the thickness of the groove (1.6mm)!

IMG_7344.jpg

 

Now that I bought top quality bearings and destroyed them upon first install, I will have to figure out the order (that I didn't take consideration of while disassembling) of the spacers for the shaft and I'll have to install new(er?) bearings and this should be ready for the new pulley hub.



#15 MacWorld ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2018 - 09:22 PM

Ok, the snowblower will probably not be useful for this winter ): I think I am listening too much to ThisOldTony, Joe Pieczynski and Stefan Gotteswinter videos!

 

Anyway, here is a part (well 2) I needed to make. Previous owner ate them and replaced them by silly parts he welded to the snowblower... I did not agree with that

thumbnail.jpg

 

To make this recipe you will need

- 12" of 1.25" x 0.375" flatbar

- 9.5" of 2" x 0.25" flatbar

- 2x 0.125" drill bits (you will break one and strugle to remove it from the hole)

- 0.375" drill bit (this one is still no match for the Delta DP600 but you won't break it)

- a drill press

- a welder

- a Markal silver-streak (this is the magic pen to write on metal, even oily or greasy!)

- a bandsaw

- a 20T press

- scrap metal to use as cheap bending die since you never have the time to build a copy of Swag Offroad's bending press

 

Consider that I am using .25" stock on the ground since I did not want to try killing myself with flying metal bending something thicker. Safety first!

 

First after looking after every single pictures of this part on Google and not finding much dimensions, you will draw this on your stock

IMG_7368.jpg

IMG_7369.jpg

Since you don't have proper bending tools, you will set both short ends in the center and make the bends BEFORE cutting the 2 parts appart. This will make up for the too wide bottom die you made.

 

Then you will enjoy making your parts forgetting to take pictures of the process and will come up with that

IMG_7370.jpg

IMG_7371.jpg

IMG_7372.jpg

 

Quick informations making up for missing pictures

To make the hole equally unevenly spaced on both parts, weld them together and drill them both at the same time. Drilling 7 deep holes is faster and more "ISO-ish" than 14 shorter holes. Those holes are for adjusting the height. I need only one (my driveway is pretty flat) but I like breaking drill bits therefore I made all of them.

The holes are spaced 0.5" apart and on the female part (the snowblower) there are 2 holes 0.75" apart. This will give you adjustment by 0.25" increments. I plan on adding a 3rd hole on the female part 0.875" from one of the 2 others to upgrade to 0.125" increments. Do I really need this? I don't know but I prefer drilling before painting the whole thing.

 

Those are the shoes for behind the snowblower to prevent it from digging while going backward mostly. The longer side go backward.

 

Next step will be to make the front shoes!


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