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cutter flailer for towing with my Husqvarna

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#1 Kevpatfred OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2018 - 05:07 AM

I have a Husqvarna tractor mower. Twin Kohler engine. 2500   But if the grass is higher than 6" it is near useless. If the grass is damp it clogs up even without the big baggy thing at the back. Eg. Pretty useless. Only any good for smooth lawns and super dry grass.

 

So I am thinking of buying a self powered trailer cutter flailer thing. About £1/1,500 or so. 

 

But has anyone else done this ?  Is the Husq. powerful enough to tow the flailer/cutter?  Is it easy enough to get a mechanic type man to fit a two bar attachment at the back of the Husq ?

 

It will be great if anybody has had to do this and I'd love to hear about the pros and the cons.

 

Thanks.   Kevpatfred


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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2018 - 08:51 AM

Most mowers do not work well when the grass is wet or too long. If it is dry and too long the technique to use is to cut with the engine at normal cutting speed and the tractor in a lower gear so that it feeds much slower. I sometimes have to mow so that the blade next to the discharge is not cutting but just throwing. That means that I'm only progressing about 2' per cutting pass. Cutting grass that is too long usually gives a poor looking finish, so will a flail mower.

 

Sometimes the technique is to cut the lawn with the deck fully lifted to the tractor. For my tractor that means the grass ends up at about 8". I then let it dry for a day and mow again. I point these things out because I think that you should explore changes to your cutting technique rather than spending alot of money.

 

Cleanning the mower deck and painting the underside may help too. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, February 03, 2018 - 08:52 AM.

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#3 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2018 - 02:08 PM

It should have plenty of power to tow. However, if you have any thing of a hill to cut, it could get hard on the rearend. There are some tow behind mowers that would be considered a finish mower which will give a nicer cut than a flail will. And also handle the longer grass better than your tractor deck.
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#4 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2018 - 02:30 PM

Just read your other post of where you were mowing. In a paddock or pasture as Americans say, forget the nice cutting mower and go for the rough cut mower. They are built to handle the thicker grass and volume.

#5 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2018 - 02:36 PM

   I have a 60" flail mower with a two cylinder Wisconsin that I bought at a garage sale. I was told it was used for many years to mow the football field at a school. It doesn't seem to care what it is cutting wet, dry, short, long. The problem is that a small hole or dip in the lawn turns it in to a rototiller. For mine at least smooth' flat' and rock free is a requirement.  Don 


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#6 bryan 110 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2018 - 03:26 PM

I use one behind my four wheeler to cut long grass shorter then hit it with the lawn mower if I want shorter then the flail can do
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#7 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2018 - 09:45 PM

We have a tow behind one we use to cut grass at the camp. It has a twin cylinder Briggs on it.

Never use it behind the tractor just the 4 wheelers.

#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 06:13 AM

Why don't you post the model of your tractor so members would be better to say if yours can handle the load . At my son's house he has a White GT2550  , 25 hp with a 54" deck , I made up a pull behind mower for the wet areas and around his pond but I was afraid the transmission would not hold up to the extra strain . We use the 4 wheel . On his tractor I noticed you can't raise the deck up very high with the lever even if you wanted to cut tall grass in 2 passes . I never looked to see if it was a design problem or something that could be adjusted .  Myself I would look into cutting it in 2 passes , heck even if you could only get a little bit higher on the deck you might be able to get taller tires  2" bigger will get another inch . You said wet grass that's going to be tuff , most chutes have a bar of some type across the bottom for support and to keep it from digging in  . Maybe that could be lowered to make the opening bigger , if you have a chute rock deflector that might need to be modified , maybe larger . My son doesn't have one on his but I would never do that , I've broken a window and put  holes in my siding from rocks and I had one on 


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#9 Greasy6020 ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 12:11 PM

Lift the plastic discharge chute up and hold it up with a bungee cord. Did wonders for my dad...





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