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Cub 123 Transaxle removal

cub 123 transaxle removal

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#16 EricR ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2018 - 06:46 PM

This is our first narrow frame so I'm still learning how their different from my 149.  I wish they had a tunnel cover like the 149!  It's a lot more difficult to get to the linkages and drive shaft without it!

I hope to have that much time with my son as well!  I hope I will have enough patience!  My son is going through a phase of telling me that I'm "wrong" or "that's not right" and other things that can really try my patience!!!!  

Do you have any suggestion or tricks when working on these narrow frames?

I know I could use your guidance on the internal brake that is stuck. 

Thanks Eric!

 

Yeah, working on those old narrow frames are a real pain but just take your time. And on the brakes (the last time I had one apart was more than 25 years ago) but the problem was the piece the brake rod pushes on was stuck in the rear end. We tore everything with the brakes apart, put new brakes in and haven't had an issue since...  Just take your time......


Edited by EricR, January 30, 2018 - 06:47 PM.

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#17 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2018 - 10:07 PM

Found some time to work on the 123 today.  We drill out the broken bolts on the left side of the axle tubes, inserted a bolt extractor, and they came out with no problems.  

20180219_155315.jpg 20180219_155319.jpg

Next up was to see if we could get the internal brake puck to move freely.  We had to make some room so we removed the suction tube.  I'm sure there's a reason why it's so long but the one on my 149 is only about 4 inches.  

20180219_160835.jpg 20180219_160839.jpg 20180219_160847.jpg

Next, we removed the brake pivot shaft by removing the adjustment bolt and then driving the shaft out.  You can see that the shaft has a grove that keeps the shaft secured.

20180219_162337.jpg

Using a brass punch I got it to move.  I pulled it back out but I couldn't get it to fully pull out before the pliers slipped off.  I'd really like to see what the brake material looks like but I don't want to have to go internal and remove a whole bunch of stuff to drive the pad all the way out.  

20180219_175244.jpg 20180219_175251.jpg

We finished up by removing the right side axle shaft and tube.  We found more moister and it allowed us to be able to remove all of the ATF that someone mistakenly filled this up with.  The axle retaining clip was also bent and missing a chunk of metal so I will have to get a new one.  The clip could have fallen out when we least expected making life miserable.

20180219_175121.jpg 20180219_175126.jpg 20180219_175309.jpg

Time to order up some gaskets, seals, filter, fluid, grade 5 bolts, driveshaft pin, and rag joint so it will be ready for the shows this summer.  We'll see how much money my son has saved up!!!


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#18 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2018 - 10:29 PM

Looks like you got a good handle on it.  Been around these a long time and I've never seen any of those bolts broken off on the frame.  I know the aluminum rears that were made by CCC after MTD bought Cub Cadet had issues with stripping the threads out when using rear hitches but not this issue.  Must have been loose a while and just got to weak and snapped off.  Good time to chase the threads in trans housing and replace all the bolts like you're doing.  Don't worry too much about that hydro pump.  Those Sundstrand units were pretty tough and could take quite a bit of abuse.  I'd suggest repairing the trunnion if needed while you're this far apart.


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#19 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2018 - 10:31 PM

Also I agree with Eric, those brakes once you get them free should give years of dependable trouble free service.  I much prefer them over external brake rears.


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#20 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2018 - 10:59 PM

Looks like you got a good handle on it.  Been around these a long time and I've never seen any of those bolts broken off on the frame.  I know the aluminum rears that were made by CCC after MTD bought Cub Cadet had issues with stripping the threads out when using rear hitches but not this issue.  Must have been loose a while and just got to weak and snapped off.  Good time to chase the threads in trans housing and replace all the bolts like you're doing.  Don't worry too much about that hydro pump.  Those Sundstrand units were pretty tough and could take quite a bit of abuse.  I'd suggest repairing the trunnion if needed while you're this far apart.

Thanks

Is the trunnion the piece that attaches to the rag joint and the hydro? What do you look for?  It a little loose but the pin seems to ok.

Is the pin for the driveshaft coupler a specially type pin?



#21 EricR ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 05:08 PM

Looks like you are coming right along with your project.

 

The last cast iron rear with broken bolts I have seen it was hammered and had a bad life.

 

And the part IHCubGuy is talking about is the part with the spring thing hocked up to the hydro, where you put the rod to make it go back and forth if that makes cents, LOL...


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#22 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 05:14 PM

Check out this manual on trunnion repair.


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#23 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 05:15 PM

Thanks

Is the trunnion the piece that attaches to the rag joint and the hydro? What do you look for?  It a little loose but the pin seems to ok.

Is the pin for the driveshaft coupler a specially type pin?

The trunnion is the piece on the side of the hystat pump with the spring that attaches to the control linkage from the speed control handle.  I found a pic of it online.

 

 

 

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  • hydropic1.jpg

Edited by IHCubGuy, February 20, 2018 - 05:16 PM.

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#24 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 05:25 PM

Check out this manual on trunnion repair.

Thanks for the information!  I never knew about this fix before.   After reading the PDF I think it makes sense it also might explain some problems I have with my 149.


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#25 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 05:25 PM

Those Sundstrand pumps were designed to use a rainbow of fluids. All my machines have either 15u or 15inline pumps and I use either 30w, hytran, or 15w40 depending on the machine haha. I had a 140 that I used atf in also. Don't worry about the fluid type.

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#26 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 07:02 PM

To answer your question about the pin in the driveshaft.  Yes they are NOT just a roll pin.  They ARE a spirol pin.  It look like a sticky bun thae way its rolled together.  They look like this.spiral-dowel-pin.jpg

 

 


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