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Ford LGT 14D - What a tractor!

lgt 14d 16d ford

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#31 olcowhand ONLINE  


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Posted February 05, 2018 - 08:20 PM

I can never remember the JIC sizes.  As Noel said, just take a hose or fitting with you and they'll fix you up, or at least identify your size if you're wanting to source online.

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#32 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  



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Posted February 06, 2018 - 05:20 AM

Personally, I would cut the plows mounting frame at the angled joint and lengthen it and straighten it at the same time. Then make new mounts on the tractor that matched the 4 holes already in the frame.
Then make up a hydraulic ram mount up front with the ram pushing down so I could have down preasure on the blade if I wanted. This will only work though if you have adequate stroke on the hydraulic ram.
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#33 jtorigian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2018 - 09:38 AM

Thanks Noel and Daniel, I will also measure how long the new lines should be so it can be done all at once.


You are "mucho brave" and must be a good welder, unfortunately for me, as you can tell by my welds. I will call your advice (Plan B) if my first design fails.


Thanks again my tractor brothers!!!



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#34 gksyn OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2018 - 02:28 PM

Hi John!

Lovin’ Your Ford tractor! They are a lot of fun.

Quick question about your HST Filters you bought.
I’m trying to cross reference the line and suction filters on mine.
New Holland Dealership and Messicks has them from ~$30 a piece for the suction filter. Ouch.
Is that the one you used?
The suction filter in the one on the side, perpendicular to the HST.

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#35 jtorigian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2018 - 08:33 AM

Hi Jerry,

Being a new owner of a classic, I started doing my research on preventative maintenance and saw some people had issues with noisy HST units after using aftermarket filters. Really not sure if it was the oil or the filters they used but realized that its not worth the risk to use aftermarket, for the amount of times you will have to change these filters, pay a little more and play it safe. I ordered all my filters directly from a New Holland parts dealer (engine oil filter, HST 2 filters, fuel 2 filters and one air filter) six filters in all.

The hydraulic oil I chose was from tractor supply, part number 80639199. It was equivalent to OEM and much much more reasonable than the dealership.


Since the maintenance, I've had no noises or hiccups. I will be posing the plow project update later today as well.




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#36 jtorigian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2018 - 09:27 AM

Good news on the plow project as I have made great progress.

I removed the hydraulic ram and lines from the HST connections and brought it to a hydraulic guy.

He said the threading was "1/4 BSP" British Standard Pipe. Who could have guessed an American tractor made by Japan was using British threads!!!

1) The hydraulic guys made me two eight foot lines that I installed and then I tested to confirm the connections were correct and not leaking...Check!

2) Then I got to work on the ram mount using large L frame, existing ram bracket and welded them into place...Check!

3) Bolted the chain link to the ram and after playing with the links to see what worked best....Check!

4) Last was painting the raw metals to prevent them from rusting...Check!

The ram lifts the plow nicely and the float setting works well too.

I still have to make the pivot release linkage and a handle to adjust the plow angle while sitting in the seat.

Later on Saturday, I was able to replace both front tires (not in pictures).

My God, it was like wrestling an alligator.....TWICE!!!!

After one bloody knuckle and a beer, the tires were on and holding air nicely.

Hope you enjoy the pictures and let me know if you have any suggestions.




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#37 FixItCharlie ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2018 - 12:51 PM

I would suggest changing the hydraulic cylinder mounting to more like is shown in this picture for 2 reasons.

1. The way the chain is connected to hydraulic cylinder is not putting even pressure on the ram piston. This could cause uneven wear on the seals.


2. Exposure of ram piston having the hydraulic cylinder fully extended when the blade is down or at rest allows for corrosion. When plowing snow there is a lot moisture to collect on parts & being in snow country salt & snow melt with moisture causes corrosion.


It looks as if there is enough room to change the mounting for the hydraulic cylinder lower. Then use where the hydraulic cylinder is mounted now as the pivot point for a lift bar. many years ago when I had a snow plow on a truck the lifting was setup this way. It is just a suggestion but maybe worth looking into.


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#38 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2018 - 04:07 PM

I agree with Charlie, but I would have the hydraulic cylinder mounted upside down from the picture, This would help keep dirt and water from getting to the piston seal, and when lowered, mount it so the piston is retracted all the way, keeps the chrome clean. Your Chain becomes your float. Looks like you have enough hose for cylinder movement, just put elbows into the cylinder pointed down and it should hook up. 



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Posted May 14, 2018 - 07:11 AM

the white fenders are 87-88 year model...blue fenders start in `89

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