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Ford LGT 14D - What a tractor!

lgt 14d 16d ford

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#16 jtorigian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2018 - 03:44 PM

Hello Ford Lovers!!!

I managed to take additional photos of the tractor, the hydraulic lift mechanism and the dry fitting of the plow setup.

I plan on welding the two class one tow hitch bars to the front of the frame and mount the piston lift on a cross member (using the upper parts of the tow hitch bars) that will raise the plow using the existing fender mounted control.

Thoughts???

Let me know if you think I need to install a support that runs from the rear hitch to the front frame mount.

My opinion is that the front frame plate is strong enough.

 

Thanks,

John

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#17 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2018 - 06:28 PM

If you place the hitch bars to the outside of the plow bracket, then the load will be transferred almost directly to the frame rails, ensuring enough strength.


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#18 jtorigian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2018 - 09:33 AM

That is a great idea.

 

This will also allow for more room to install hydraulic lift brackets in the center.

 

Thanks Daniel.


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#19 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 06:25 AM

That tractor is a Shibura built unit! Has a wartmonger hydro and will be very hard to find attachments. Toro/Wheelhorse also used Shibura to make a diesel version of their tractor series from the same generation. Some aytachments swapped between brands. Mower decks and plows and such.
The diesel engine was great when they ran, but boys oh boy could they give issues when they were not taken care of! They are corrosion prone both metal wise and electrically. The later versions were much better.
NOTHING from a Kubota will work on these except maybe the tires! 2 totally different units.
These are reasons I do not own one.. I have had many chances to buy them but something was always missing like mowing deck or sheetmetal, and then I had the pleasure of getting one running for a friend (he had just purchased it) It was not pleasant.. and I can fix just about anything.
Good luck with yours as it looks like a decently complete unit. I will say this though they can pull and push when running proper! My buddies rig is a beast!
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#20 jtorigian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 11:19 AM

Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Not much of a diesel mechanic but I know maintenance is everything. So I am hoping for a good run now that all the oils and filters are new.
With some good advice I was able to weld new plow mounts to the front frame. It appears to work well, now on to the hydraulic relocation phase. I will post pics Monday.
Thanks, John
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#21 jtorigian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 02:18 PM

Here are the plow mount pictures....

Let me know if you have any suggestions moving forward.

Thanks, John

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#22 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 05:12 PM

I would replace the 2 short blade mounting pins with either a long bolt all the way through both sides (if you can find one that long) or a section of cold roll rod.  The short pins will rock a lot and prematurely wear the pins and oblong the holes.


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#23 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 05:18 PM

This is only my opinion, And I'm sayin this because it happened to me. A plow I put on a tractor of mine years ago would try and flip under the tractor by pushing the front wheels up of the ground, when the plow hit heavy stuff. What I found was i had the plow pivot point to high on the tractor. I really cant tell by the pictures, but it looks high on yours, just a thought.

 

Noel


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#24 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 05:23 PM

This is only my opinion, And I'm sayin this because it happened to me. A plow I put on a tractor of mine years ago would try and flip under the tractor by pushing the front wheels up of the ground, when the plow hit heavy stuff. What I found was i had the plow pivot point to high on the tractor. I really cant tell by the pictures, but it looks high on yours, just a thought.

 

Noel

I think he plans to use a hydraulic cylinder, which should prevent it high-siding.   That definitely could be an issue if using a cable or any one way lift.


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#25 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 05:38 PM

True, but still would need a system for float. Maybe the tractor hydraulics has a float position in the up and down lever.

Noel
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#26 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 05:59 PM

True, but still would need a system for float. Maybe the tractor hydraulics has a float position in the up and down lever.

Noel

Yep, you are right there!  Being I don't use a front blade on GT's, I forgot they usually need to operate in a float mode.  Maybe he can weld "stop blocks" that would limit the downward travel of the blade.  But then if the cylinder is mounted at the right spot, the ram could be the travel stop itself.


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#27 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2018 - 06:13 PM

Ya the blocks would work. If I remember that’s what I did to mine to fix it. It was twenty years ago when I put the plow on that tractor. Still have the tractor. And still have the plow. But the plow is on my MF 12 with the loader.

Noel
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#28 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2018 - 04:11 AM

It does have a float position on the valve so he will be good there.
Noel your observations are spot on! The mounting points should be just in front of the axle at the front wheels' spindle height for the most traction/steering combination.

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#29 jtorigian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2018 - 05:45 PM

Hi Guys,

I took a side photo for you to see that this plow is really designed for an ATV which has a higher ground clearance so they designed this plow with an angle up to the plow mounts.

When front tires are fully inflated, the main plow frame is parallel to the ground so I really couldn't go too much lower.

I plan on relocating the hydraulic deck lift piston to the front and existing control which has a float setting.

 

Question: Since I need to either extend or replace the hydraulic hoses to reach the front. Does anyone know the fitting size I should be looking for???

 

Thanks for all your help,

John

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#30 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2018 - 08:14 PM

Sorry, can’t help you there. Take the cylinder you are going to use, with the fittings still in it, to your local hydraulic shop and they should be able to fix you up. They could make the hoses too.

Noel





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