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Homemade electric mower deck.


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#31 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2011 - 09:29 PM

The black motor in the first pic I have 1 just like it, can't get it to work though.

#32 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2011 - 09:47 PM

Did someone say.....................................................................................................................ELECTRIC.......................................[ATTACH=CONFIG]16982[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16981[/ATTACH] got to do a quickie at work so i can buy more STUFF to add to my CRAP .ill be back about 9:30 pacific time with some specs and personal knowledge ..

That is a heck of a load of electrics! :D

#33 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2011 - 11:49 PM

The big black motor is actually a 28.5 volt 300 amp continuous dc welding generator . field wound motors / generators and permanent magnet motors can be a motor or a generator , just depends on if your pushing it or pulling it. bolt it to your motor and its a generator ,hook it to the drive system and apply a voltage source .......... its a motor <<<<< applies to DC only . ac power is a totaly different animal . most ac motors run at a specific rpm aka 1725 or 3450 rpm . the 60 hertz frequency is the key to that . some are speed variable with a proper electronic controller , some are reversible . others are not. most of my study and interest was in dc power so thats where most of my knowledge is based . i have been studying this stuff about 10 years , picking up the parts in the pic for about 5 years and experimenting . the homemade platform with the blue motor was hooked up to a single car battery with my butt in a lawnchair on top of it all,,,,,,,,, both wheels spun up to full speed in less than half a second ,,,,,, and i mean SPUN , didnt move the cart forward,just spun in place place leaving 2 greasy green divots where the tires sat. now thats torque. the dc motor will outstrip a diesel for torque by a bigger margin than the diesel will over a gas engine .

Edited by rexknightly, July 05, 2011 - 02:15 AM.


#34 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2011 - 02:08 AM

About the voltage guage .Use the kiss principle...Keep it simple stupid... hook in a standard multimeter . It will tell you so much more . static , or under load while in use . available in all sizes and colors almost anywhere for dirt cheap . the cheap 5 light thingies only show 20% increments and if you ever get the spark show and blue cloud O death while on the back 40 you have the perfect tool with you for diagnosing , that is if the melted miscolored copper wasnt enough of a clue . Those kinds of failures are usually rather noticable . Now its off to bed so i can go to this lake tomorrow with my best friend and boss john....his gas/food/beer and watch the young hotties blow by on jetski's all day ...... life is good..... and happy 4th to you all.
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#35 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2011 - 11:57 AM

Electric tractor is on my agenda as well.

#36 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2011 - 07:09 PM

Doug. It sounds pretty reasonable. I like how the elec trak is in front, but towing would make it easier I think.


After giving it some thought I don't think I'm going to be able to mount the deck under the tractor. Not enough room for the deck to go up and down over bumps. The top of the motor is white plastic and it holds the brushes and upper bearing, 1 hit and it's broke, if I put a cover over top to protect it the clearance will be even less, 2 1/2" is not much.
ET2 mower 003.jpg

Pulling the deck behind as a trailer would be the easiest, or put front and pushing it would work as well, need to give this some more thought.
For now it's time to scare up 1 or 2 more of these cordless mowers and some kind of a deck.

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#37 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2011 - 09:14 PM

Just a thought, but could you somehow keep the motors outside of the tractor frame, and belt drive back to the blades. Might
help with the height issue. Just throwing darts.

#38 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2011 - 12:52 AM

dh1 ... if you post a couple of pics , especially of any tags/markings , posts where wires connect and brushes i may be able to help . may or may not that is but i will try my best . ps...black motor is nearly bang on 50 lb,s .got it from surplus center , burden sales $160 plus shipping along with the black curtis 1204 speed controller for $169

Edited by rexknightly, July 06, 2011 - 01:11 AM.


#39 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2011 - 07:56 PM

How do you wire it up?
Mine has 2 large terminals, and 2 smaller terminals beside the large ones.
I tried a few different ways and did not get it to spin.

#40 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 02:18 AM

electric 004.jpg the 2 large posts will go thru the brushes to the armature . the small ones go to the field windings. connect 1 large post to the small post nearest to it then connect the other 2 together . make sure you have that sucker bolted down because the whole motor will try to spin opposite to the direction the armature spins . hook your negative jumper cable to one side and positive to the other and she should spin up .both my motors had an interconnect which means internally there was a small steel bar connecting 1 large and 1 small post on 1 pair only , the other pair were left unconnected . with an interconnect the motor will spin in 1 direction only. if you want to reverse the direction you will have to dissasemble motor and remove the interconnect . to reverse direction either the armature or the field windings , aka positive/negative should be reversed....not both or it will run in the same direction . permanent magnet motors only have 2 posts so you switch those and the motor reverses ,because the magnets always pull the change in current direction reverses motor . if your motor still doesnt spin check the brushes and there wire pigtails , pull a row of brushes out and look down the brass tube to see the commutator. it should still look like copper , a little darkening and groovage is normal depending on hours of use and how hard it was worked. if its blackend,charred or severely grooved the comm will need to be turned and brushes replaced. to check if it has an interconnect use a mutimeter or a 12 volt test lite between the large and small posts ,if the meter or testlight passes power through either combinations of small and large posts there is an interconnect . set your meter to ohms and touch the meters probes to each large post , you should see a level of resistance , maybe 4 to 16 ohms , not sure , the braincell that held that info must have croaked ,do the same with small posts . i will meter my motors tomorrow and edit/update this post with my motors resistance for a comparison . if the windings show little if any resistance .........U R SCREWED , the winding is likely shorted . good luck . and check out these spots for ev stuff , makes me drool. Cloud Electric Vehicles , thunderstruck motors , kelly controls .....sorry , tried adding the links and i couldnt figure it out,,,ive done it before , must be more cell failure . If one of the GT Talk big kahuna's can locate and add in the links for me i will slink off and try to sort out my technical failings ,they are well worth a look for those interested in electric power systems .

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Edited by rexknightly, July 10, 2011 - 04:10 AM.

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#41 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2011 - 05:53 PM

Picked up another 24volt 20" cut Yardworks cordless mower today, this is the same voltage and cut size but a different model, earlier one???.
Guy said it was 3yrs old and in perfect working order, said he always kept the charger on, plugged in.
I paid $10. for it.
It's missing the side shoot but has everything else and it does work.
This creates a problem because it works good, there is nothing wrong with this thing, it's to good to tear apart. So I have to find another one, I'm going to keep this one as it is.
ET2 mower 003.jpg
ET2 mower 005.jpg

Here's a short video of it.

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#42 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2011 - 07:18 PM

$10 bucks , good score on that and leaves enough cash for another .

#43 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2011 - 07:24 PM

That's a heck a good deal for 10 bucks.
So how many are you going to get before you tear into them?:D

On second thought, I couldn't tear that apart either.
If this heat keeps up, the grass will stop growing, and you'll find many more
easily.

#44 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2011 - 07:30 PM

The big problem with these cordless mowers is they get used till the battery is dead or low on charge, then they are not charged back up right away, lead acid batteries don't like to sit around at a low charge, that is what ruins the battery. The one I just got has the original battery in it 3yr old was always stored fully charged or with the charger on and the battery is still good.

#45 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2011 - 06:29 PM

Well my latest new to me cordless mower is sold, a buddy at work needs it, tried it tonight and it's now his.
Greed got the better of me paid $10. Sold for $20. 100% markup.
Be nice to do this everyday except I'd like to spend a $1000. and sell for $2000., everyday.




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