I have a pair of GT chains that I used last year on my 1811, but they are really to small for the 23x10.5x12 tires. My father-in-law gave me a set that he never used for his truck. I decided to see if I could make them fit my Cub. I had a second set of tires laying around so I used them to see how well the chains would fit. The width looks to be perfect so I put them up on my recently cleaned bench and cut the chains to length. Here is how they turned out.
Here is how much I removed.
The new chains have a cam tightening feature making them fit nicely to the tire. The new chains are thicker, wider, and have one less cross bar then the previous pair. I don't know how this will affect the traction performance so I will have to wait for the next store to find out.
I have a few sets of chains here that don't fit anything that I have, I ordered a set from eBay yesterday. They fit the diameter ok but barely made it across the profile, I got 3 feet out of the garage and the 1st one came off..,
When I switched from 2 link from 4 link, I thought the ride was much smoother and less slippage. Seeing the cross chains that you cut off makes me wonder if they could be added back on in between to give a 2 link set.
Hay Mark can you pull the cross bars from the old chains and add them in between the cross bars of the new ones. Or possibly make the H chain pattern. Getting the chains to tight is a bad thing. They need a little movement so they clean out better. It can be fun modifying them for best traction. I buy all the old auto chains i can get cheep at garage sales or second hand stores so I have lots of material to play with. Don
When I switched from 2 link from 4 link, I thought the ride was much smoother and less slippage. Seeing the cross chains that you cut off makes me wonder if they could be added back on in between to give a 2 link set.
Hay Mark can you pull the cross bars from the old chains and add them in between the cross bars of the new ones. Or possibly make the H chain pattern. Getting the chains to tight is a bad thing. They need a little movement so they clean out better. It can be fun modifying them for best traction. I buy all the old auto chains i can get cheep at garage sales or second hand stores so I have lots of material to play with. Don
Good question! I don't know! I'll have to look at that tomorrow. I really don't know much about tire chains because we usually don't need them where I live so I'm still a rookie compared to others. I had to look up what 2 link vs 4 link meant (cross links every 2 side links vs cross links every 4 side links). What's the best way to remove the cross link from the length that I removed? Any suggestion would be much appreciated!
Good point! I could always fill in where I can until I get another set of chains. Might make for an interesting ride! I see that they recommend 2 link for GT's over 4 links.
Hay Mark can you pull the cross bars from the old chains and add them in between the cross bars of the new ones. Or possibly make the H chain pattern. Getting the chains to tight is a bad thing. They need a little movement so they clean out better. It can be fun modifying them for best traction. I buy all the old auto chains i can get cheep at garage sales or second hand stores so I have lots of material to play with. Don
Don, another thing I noticed is I couldn't add a cross link to the parts of the chains that have a tightening cam unless I replaced the cam with a regular link.
Being cheep and having time I spring the links open with a cold chisel used as a wedge, Then close them back with a hammer on my anvil. If you google chain repair pliers they are much easier to use. I have never tried to rent a pair but on heavy chains it would likely be worth it. As far as the tightening cams go the only way i can see to deal with that would be to replace that side rail chain with a solid one. the function of those tighteners seems to depend on the chains keeping a strain on them. that would mean the chain couldn't move and clear it's self of packed snow or mud. If you pick them up for a couple of bucks at garage sales you can afford to get really creative. I am looking at making a set of what they call three rail chains for the duels on the back of my sears 18/6. It can get stuck on wet grass with the front bucket full. Don
Nice chains for sure. A roller bar is handy for tightening that type of cam. I have old style 15" truck tire chains. Just had to lop 4 links off, no cross chain.
Being cheep and having time I spring the links open with a cold chisel used as a wedge, Then close them back with a hammer on my anvil. If you google chain repair pliers they are much easier to use. I have never tried to rent a pair but on heavy chains it would likely be worth it. As far as the tightening cams go the only way i can see to deal with that would be to replace that side rail chain with a solid one. the function of those tighteners seems to depend on the chains keeping a strain on them. that would mean the chain couldn't move and clear it's self of packed snow or mud. If you pick them up for a couple of bucks at garage sales you can afford to get really creative. I am looking at making a set of what they call three rail chains for the duels on the back of my sears 18/6. It can get stuck on wet grass with the front bucket full. Don
Keep the tightening cams and put the s hook of a rubber tarp strap in them to hold them closed and X them across the wheel from one side to the other and they should stay closed. You can also use a zip tie on them to help as well. We use Pewag brand at work on the plow trucks with those type fastener and they are an awesome chain. Chains should not be real tight, you should be able to get your fingers under them and lift them off the tire a little. The tire should throw them under itself for the traction. Too tight and they will destroy the tire.
Keep the tightening cams and put the s hook of a rubber tarp strap in them to hold them closed and X them across the wheel from one side to the other and they should stay closed. You can also use a zip tie on them to help as well. We use Pewag brand at work on the plow trucks with those type fastener and they are an awesome chain. Chains should not be real tight, you should be able to get your fingers under them and lift them off the tire a little. The tire should throw them under itself for the traction. Too tight and they will destroy the tire.
Going by what you have said I'll have to loosen one or two of the cams to make it fit a little more loose. Thanks for the help!
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