Garden Tractor Forums banner

Farmall Cub Demonstrator

9K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  DH1 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is my friends Farmall, serial # traces it to be a 1950 Demonstrator, the white ones, found that under the red paint is white. I promised him I would try to get it running and painted by mothers day. I have never seen or worked on a Farmall before.
Problems so far.

1- Need carburetor gasket set.
2- Are these 12volt, 6volt, positive ground or negative ground?
3- Engine has no compression, only 1 cylinder has 20lbs. Looking in the spark plug holes I can see the valves, some are stuck open. Need head and manifold gaskets.
4- Rear tires are loaded, rims are rusted and one leaks right at the valve stem. Whats the best way to fix? Not going to be reloading the tires.
Need source of parts and info, any help or advice would be nice.
Not doing a restoration just a fix up and repaint, owner wants it red.

:help::help::help:

I hope you like pictures
 

Attachments

See less See more
17
#2 ·
I can't tell you about the electrical system, don't know too much about them. I don't think the motor work will be too bad, hopefully get lucky with just cleaning the head, new valve guides and a valve job. Maybe get lucky too with the cylinder walls still being in decent shape, if not maybe be able to get away with just honing them a touch and putting new rings on. I hate to say I think the back rims are shot and might want to start looking for new ones. If they are salvageable they are going to take a lot of work. The rest of the tractor looks like it would clean up pretty easy for repaint.
 
#3 ·
Don't know where you can source parts.I'll say this much it's going to be a labour of love,I'am sure it'll look good once it's done,can hardly wait to see pictures of it once it's completed.Larry
 
#4 ·
I've seen them a lot worse than that brought back from the dead.
 
#5 ·
The cub should be a 6 volt , positive ground. As to gasket sets you should be able to get them at a larger auto parts place. I have redone a couple of farmall A and B tractors and got felpro gasket sets from the local auto parts place. The cub should have a c60 engine, 60 cubic inches. Check over the rear rims and if they are to far gone to be repaired, replacement rims should be available. I bought 2 rear rims for a Farmall A and they were around 100.00 each. Good luck on your project!
 
  • Like
Reactions: DH1
#6 ·
Being looking on the net and found 2 good sites.

"FarmallCub.com" - lots of info here
"TM Tractor.com" - source for new and used parts

Also found that I have a 1950 made in the first 3 months,painted originally white, (I had thought it was a 1951)
 
#10 ·
That's a good idea, I never thought of that, if I get this thing running 1/2 decent I'll probably go with 12 volt and alternator. Owner doesn't have the money for a full rebuild so a patch up job it is.
 
#12 ·
olcowhand said:
My 1960 IH T340 dozer is 6V, but I'm running a 12V system on it with original starter. Been this way almost 10 years & the old 6 volt starter is still doing just fine!
I did the same thing with the 53 Ford Jubilee used the 6 volt starter with 12 volt system, doesn't matter pos. ground or neg. ground starter spins same direction.
 
#14 ·
I have 3 Farmall tractors, 2 A and a B. Two of the tractors have been converted to 12 volts and use a GM alternator. They have the original 6 volt starter and when you hit the starter you can hardly get your foot off of the starter rod quick enough and they are running. The 1945 A has it's original 6 volt system. It cranks very slowly but the engine is in very good shape and only needs about 2 times past compression and it is running.
If you convert to 12 volts as long as you don't crank steady on the starter for a long time I don't think you will have any problems.
 
#15 ·
Parts arrived today from "TM Tractor Parts" man those guys don't fool around, got everything I ordered, even a free gas cap straight from International. If the weather is good Sunday I'll see if I can get this thing running.
 
#16 ·
Well mothers day has come and gone a long time ago so I guess we'll try for this mothers day coming up.
Being a long time since I did anything on this so last weekend started on it again, got to finish what you start right.
Tractor is in the garage and I pulled the head off the engine and found some good and bad stuff out about it.
Found no thermostat.
The cylinder walls are not all rusted up and look better than I thought they were going to.
The crank and big end of the rods fell pretty tight, won't know for sure until they get measured, just going to use plastigage on them.
The valves don't look that bad, they clean up on the wire wheel pretty good.
The valve seats shot, 3 of the 4 exhaust valves are stuck open.
Big problem here is that rain water??? water from somewhere goes down the muffler, into the exhaust manifold, sits in the bottom of the manifold, the exhaust valve ports and rusted them all up. Lots of loose rust in there.
This engine needs a major valve job and might as well do it all while it's all apart.
It is amazing how small this engine is, valves the size of a nickle, the end of your baby finger seals off the exhaust port, a soda can just barely fits in the cylinder, I think the hp rating is 9 or 10hp everything so small.
Here's some pictures the red is ATF
Wood Terrestrial animal Auto part Gas Metal

Motor vehicle Gas Metal Automotive exterior Auto part

Light Automotive tire Gas Automotive wheel system Auto part


Anybody have any advice or tips?
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Doug,

How does the cam look? Do you have the cover off so you can look at it? I bet because the engine is a flathead style, water never got into the cylinders, but ran down through the valve guides and all over the cam and lifters. Did the pan have water in it? the cylinder walls look good and you can probably get by with a good valve job.

Good Luck, Brian
 
#20 ·
texas deere and horse said:
Doug,

How does the cam look? Do you have the cover off so you can look at it? I bet because the engine is a flathead style, water never got into the cylinders, but ran down through the valve guides and all over the cam and lifters. Did the pan have water in it? the cylinder walls look good and you can probably get by with a good valve job.

Good Luck, Brian
The cam looks OK, I havn't removed it but what I can see no rust marks anywhere.
There was no water or milk (water and oil mix) that came out of the oil pan at all.
Looks like the water got into the exhaust side of the manifold and the sat in the exhaust ports, that's as far as it went.
Like you say the cylinders look OK.
Saw a fellow years ago do a valve grinding job on a forklift engine, 6 cly. flathead Continental, he ground the seats with the engine in the fork and took the valves to his shop and ground them there. Have to find somebody who can do that on this one, save me a lot of work.
For the rest I was thinking about remove the pan check the bearings, remove the pistons check the rings and deglaze the cylinder walls. If I can get away with doing that this won't cost much, even if I have to get rings, bearings they are available and not to expensive.
 
#21 ·
:help: I about to take a real good look at the rest of this engine and try to find out exactly what it needs. I want to know some specs and torque values.

1- crank specs mains and rod journals.
2- cylinder bore, I believe it's 2.625 standard???
3- torque specs, head bolts, main and rod bolts.

The sooner I can figure out what I need to buy to fix this thing the sooner it's done.
Any help would be appreciated.

This tractor belongs to my neighbor, was his dads and has been it the family for decades. He wants to use this for scuffling he calls it, tractor came with a bunch of cultivators mid and rear mount.
 
#22 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here is a quick overveiw of this engine, Still looking for torque specs.,

Also look at the link below, its a service manual with everything you'll need..

Bore/Stroke: 2.625x2.75 inches
• Cooling: liquid
• Cylinders: 4
• Displacement: 59.5 ci
• Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
• Fuel: gasoline
• Manufacturer: international harvester
• Model: c60
• Oil Capacity: 3 qts
• Rated RPMs: 1600

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1008%20Specifications/GSS-1008%20Specifications.htm
 
  • Like
Reactions: DH1
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top