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#1 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2017 - 02:55 PM

In the past couple years I've blown the ends off a couple GT Kohler twin mufflers.
I broke down last week, after blowing the end cap off another one, and bought a new one. They are actually welding on the ends. 20a0b256b29227a258c563651f7282b4.jpgc8dc258cfdffc2d70c2ff1d4e1a40950.jpg

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#2 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2017 - 02:57 PM

Are you getting back fires?


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#3 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2017 - 03:00 PM

Are you getting back fires?

Yes, I have had a starting issue for years. It doesn't power the coil in start. So when I let off the key it fires and blows out my eardrum.

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#4 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2017 - 04:47 PM

Sounds like it has the wrong switch in it or it's wired incorrectly Or possibly a bad switch.

 

If ya want to try putting in a new switch I found one.

 

Switch part # is (Ariens 53123700)

 

Cheapest place I could find them is on Ebay for $35.99 shipped. Every other place I could find wants $40-$45 + shipping.

https://www.ebay.com...XwAAOSwgv5ZPZgg

 

 

Ariens/New Holand wiring is ridiculously over engineered. Especially the 12v powered safety switches. Most other manufacturers safety switches work off of the ground wire to the switch.

 

 

 



#5 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2017 - 05:02 PM

Sounds like it has the wrong switch in it or it's wired incorrectly Or possibly a bad switch.

If ya want to try putting in a new switch I found one.

Switch part # is (Ariens 53123700)

Cheapest place I could find them is on Ebay for $35.99 shipped. Every other place I could find wants $40-$45 + shipping.
https://www.ebay.com...XwAAOSwgv5ZPZgg


Ariens/New Holand wiring is ridiculously over engineered. Especially the 12v powered safety switches. Most other manufacturers safety switches work off of the ground wire to the switch.

There's 2 different switches. I have 2 brand new for the GT19 with battery points ignition. With a multimeter, the voltage at the coil drops to around 10 volts when cranking. Even with the battery charger set on engine start.
Some times it fires, some times it don't.
I've been dealing with this for years. Don't know if it has something to do with my homemade time delay safety relay or the relay I installed to get the charging circuit out of the ignition switch.

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#6 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2017 - 04:40 AM

Wm, I doubt it’s your homemade time delay. Mine has been installed for 2-3 years now and continues to work perfectly.

#7 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2017 - 09:37 AM

I just did a complete rewire "from scratch" on 2 of these tractors, because I was tired of fighting the interlock system  on one, and corrosion from sitting outside unused for many years,  on the other.

I went with basic INDAK  5 wire ignition switches meant for battery ignition on both.  In looking for the ignition switches to buy, even among "5 wire INDAK" ignition switches that had the same-looking 5 spade terminal pattern on them, all spec'd for battery powered points ignition, I found that there were more than 1 pattern for which terminal powered what,  among the various INDAK switches that I found available.

Both my S16H and my GT19 got all brand new switches for ignition, lights and PTO.  I didn't use OEM Ariens switches, anywhere. I used a good grade of heavy duty push pull switches that I could replace via any auto parts store or farm store. On the ignition switches, I ordered them from Ebay, both 5 terminal INDAK meant for battery ignition. and I got 2 extras-- 1 for spare and the other for my New Holland version S-14.  but all of them that I got are the same as each other but different from Original Ariens.

Upon starting on the S16H, and consulting the original wiring diagram, I discovered that the terminal positions in the diagram (and therefore on the original ignition switch) were in different places between them,, meaning that I had to pop the locking spade terminals loose from within the wiring plug and pop them back in according to the layout of the switch that I used

​I know that I have read on here that you have had trouble with your 6 wire switch on a GT19.... 

The point of all of this, is that I wonder if even though you got switches with the same number of terminals as your original, if maybe the layout of the terminals might be different from your original switch (not saying your switch is "bad") but wired up differently within. 


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#8 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2017 - 09:41 AM

On the wire to the coil dropping down to 10V while cranking that sounds like there is either some corrosion somewhere within the system or a built in resistor in the switch, but that would seem backwards, you'd want full voltage to the coil during start, and then cut down when the switch was released to the "RUN" position.

 

On the mufflers, I can see on the one that is on my S16H has had some creative brazing done by a past owner about 1/3 of the way around where one of the end caps is crimped to the muffler body.  The one on my NH sounds hollow, it is louder. I have a brand new Nelson muffler here that I put onto that engine for break in and it had a different sound to it that I liked better but the fittings are in a very slightly different spot, when I went to put the grille and hood back on after the engine swap, I found that it "would not quite" fit on there with that muffler in place so I wound up having to put the original one from the machine back in.

I need to check the one on this burnt out parts tractor (GT16) and see what condition it is In once we gain some heat on the thermometer and lose this white crap that has fallen lately...... 

 

and on your original comments about new mufflers being welded, there was talk of the same thing on a Cub cadet forum that I am also on, where they were saying the same thing about new replacement mufflers for the Cub wideframe series of machines, welded instead of crimped.

 

It's nice to see stories that talk about "better" progress, things really being made "better" from a durability standpoint, rather than most of today's crap that is made "better" from an ease of manufacturing/cheaper to produce, standpoint.


Edited by dodge trucker, December 30, 2017 - 09:51 AM.


#9 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2017 - 02:43 PM

 

 The one on my NH sounds hollow, it is louder. I have a brand new Nelson muffler here that I put onto that engine for break in and it had a different sound to it that I liked better but the fittings are in a very slightly different spot

 

 

Stanley makes a muffler for the IH Cub and for the Ford 8N. They both have the same dimensions, but if you look down through the center pipe, one of them is open straight though. The other has a welded in baffle part way down.


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#10 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2017 - 02:55 PM

well, being that the one on the NH is original from 1972 I think it is burnt out within/



#11 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2018 - 07:13 PM

wellll..... I noticed while getting the S16 going that someone had done some brazing on the end caps of its muffler (by a past owner)

I was working on my GT19 last nite in the garage and it has always had this weird rattle.  I noticed the left (as sitting on the tractor) muffler cap buzzing and spinning on the muffler can.... stick the tip of a screwdriver against it and it sounds soooo much better.... being that access to the oxy-acetylene torch is easier than is my MIG at the moment, I will probably tack-braze the cap on the GT19 at least to get me thru the winter......

where did you get your new muffler and how much did it cost?






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