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Standard Twin Pyramid Lugs

standard twin pyramid lugs

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#31 1940Twin OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2018 - 03:49 PM

Thanks for the measurements Gtactor! Your efforts are much appreciated. The pictures are just fine and the measurements provide what I need to finalize the 3D CAD model and run the structural stress analysis to confirm what grade of ductile iron is required. When I calculated the height at 2.5" it was from the bottom surface of the lug which is against wheel, not including the protrusion which hangs over the edge. So, your measurement of 2.8" including the protrusion is consistent with the total height figure obtained if I add the length of the protrusion on the lugs that I have to 2.5". I also appreciate the offer to take one of and send one to me. For now I don't think there's a need to have you potentially take a torch to your tractor. I can't guarantee I won't need some further information after I meet with the foundry to discuss the pattern design however.

Bob White,

If your referring to your Walsh I believe the bolting arrangement is similar to the Twin lugs. The inside pocket of the lugs are dimensioned such that it prevents the square nut from rotating and therefore a wrench should not be needed to hold the nut. When I removed the lug that's pictured in post #7 and another I cleaned all the dirt away and gave the nuts a good soaking with PB Blaster. I sprayed the bolt heads as well to try to eat away any rust which might have formed underneath them. After about an hour I took a standard lenth 1/2" ratchet and with a bit of force (and perhaps a few words which I will refrain from posting) they came loose. Now, there are instructions in the Twin operators manual that show that the nut goes on the inside of the pocket. I know that doesn't guarantee that they were though. For instance I noticed that the tractor I posted the picture of in post #7 has the square nuts assembled on the inside of the wheels. Perhaps it was easier to stick the bolt through the lug first and assemble them that way, but it doesn't help once there's decades of corrosion on them. If the lugs were assembled on your tractor with the bolt heads on the inside of the lugs then you may need to use a small piece of keystock or flat stock to wedge in between the bolt head and the inside of the lug to keep the bolt from rotating when attempting to remove the nut.
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#32 1940Twin OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2018 - 12:17 AM

Your putting a lot of effort into getting an exact copy. Will you be able to get the correct casting marks and the right grade of sand?


The current proposal is to design the pattern and core box such that it would be similar to what is thought to have been used to produce the original lugs. Therefore, the reproduction lugs would have similar casing marks as the originals.

Matching the original grade of sand used could prove to be challenging and put the lugs at a price point that is not affordable if special sand needs to be ordered in just to cast the lugs. The grade of sand that the foundry uses is pretty fine and produces a casting with a good surface texture. Looking back at the pictures of the lug that Rustysteele posted and the surface texture on it, it is possible that the sand used by the foundry is similar to what was originally used. Something else to consider with matching the grade of sand is that it would be to achieve a feature (surface texture) which is going to get partially filled with paint and eventually worn off.

I know it may seem like I'm putting a lot of effort into this project. One thing I decided early on was that if I'm going to do this I'm going to do it right. The main goal being to have a reproduction lug which is as close to the original as possible with what information is available, while being affordable to the common enthusiast.
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#33 1940Twin OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2018 - 06:03 PM

I received the lug from Rustysteele. After being able review it thoroughly it does indeed seem to be NOS, or very close to it. The surface texture from the sand casing process is still prominent all over the lug and there are no wear marks on it. There are a few differences other than the height and width across the tip when compared to the taller lugs, like what's on Gtractor's Twin and others. There is no parting line or mismatch on the inside pocket of the lug like what is observed on the taller lugs, so the mold design was most certainly different. The base of the lug is also not square, differing by about 1/8" from front to back. Lastly, the bolt hole in the bottom of the lug is smaller than that of the taller lug that I have (or what is believed to have started out to be taller). The hole is still large enough to accept the same 3/8" bolt as the taller lug however. These differences seem to confirm that Rustysteele's lug is a different variant. Attached are a few pictures comparing the lugs; the lug from Rustysteele is on the left and what was originally similar to the lugs on Gtractor's Twin is on the right.

Doug,

Have you had an opportunity to look in the catalog to confirm if various lug options were offered for the Twin?

Attached Thumbnails

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#34 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2018 - 12:55 PM

I looked in one catalog I had handy but didn't see any thing. Haven't had a lot of time to chase it down but could have sworn I saw them somewhere.


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#35 1940Twin OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2018 - 12:21 AM

No problem Doug. If you find something on the different lugs let us know. I've only ever seen the tall lugs in the owners manual and sales literature so for a while I thought that's all that was offered. I am wondering however if the shorter lugs were offered in the aftermarket or as an option later in production from when the literature I've referenced was printed.





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