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Jake Chief 800


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#16 Dayton_King OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2017 - 09:25 AM

I want to recall it's 3 oz for the reverser. There is a flat head screw you remove to add oil. If it leaked, I always pump some grease in it

#17 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2017 - 11:15 AM

Question.  This is a 1967 Chief 800 tractor.  Where can I find what the Ford, Moline, Oliver, Town & Country, White models are to source parts and/or available attachments.  Specifically I am wondering about a rear lift, or tiller. 


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#18 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2017 - 11:18 AM

Have a 59730 deck I am working on.  I downloaded the manual from this site, GREAT to be able to get that info, big thanks.  My plan was to replace belts, inspect blades and do a general service.  As I disassembled the deck, the Left side spacer that holds the blade on the spindle was broken in 3 pieces.  Thinking the bolt had loosed up over time and caused the issue.  Decided I might as well pull bearings and spindles to clean, check and grease.  Using the Manuel, I found the Jacobsen Part number(203438).  Problem is I can't find anywhere to buy it.


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#19 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2018 - 08:42 PM

Man I am bummed out, I guess there not many of these 36 " rotary decks around. Upon further review, the end of the spindle has 3 small cracks in it. I guess no matter how tight the bolt got, to was going to back out. On a good not, all 4 bearings and races look to be in good shape. Now to source a spindle and blade spacer? Nobody has any ideas? I might be asking a machine shop what that charge to make them. Stay warm folks!
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#20 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2018 - 11:53 PM

Take some pictures of what you found wrong and post them so we can see.  We might be able to help out more with a solution.


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#21 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2018 - 06:40 PM

Ok, today I had a chance to take pictures of what parts I need.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
This is what the good spacer looks like I need
image.jpeg
Hear hopefully you can see the crackes in the threads, bolt won't be able to tighten correct
image.jpeg image.jpeg
This is the whole spindle
Any help is appreciated.
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#22 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2018 - 07:59 PM

Today I got some tractor wrench time.  Belts are all new Gates Power grip.  I installed at Battery.  Filled it up with fresh Non-Ethanol fuel.  She fired right up!  I knew it ran because it drove on the trailer under its own power.  I just did not want to run long because of the fact it was in dire need of new fluids.  So here is where I run into issues.  Push in clutch, idler pulley is completely off belt, cant get it in gear.  I shut engine down, confirm belt is routed correctly, clutch is releasing off belt.  Try it again. Same.  This time I put it in gear, start tractor in gear, release clutch and I can drive it up driveway.  Top of driveway I stop, push in clutch, find neutral, will not go in any gear, just grinds.  Back to garage.  Pull drive belt, and compare to old one.  Put old belt on.  Basically, it does the same thing.  So any idea what is going on here?  The clutch pedal is hooked to an idler pulley that releases belt tension.  That is happening, Pulley is completely off belt. Help please! 


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#23 Dayton_King OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2018 - 09:34 PM

Sounds like your belt is not disengaged from the pulley. Belts stretch out over time. That is why you can slide the engine front to back. Loosen the 4 bolts that hold the engine to the frame and slide the engine back
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#24 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2018 - 06:50 PM

So I thought of that.  I wish I had more info from the original owner, hoping to contact them.  The new belt is Gates 6977.  The old belt is unreadable, but a close color green to new belt.  I can only think the engine is in the OEM location and has never been moved.  You would think the stock belt should work.  Thanks for the input Dayton_King.  I will take measurements and put it on the list to try.


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#25 Dayton_King OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2018 - 08:58 PM

The belt should be a 5L77. As the belt ages and stretches you slide the motor forward to get tension back. It makes perfect since that a new belt means it's to tight. The frame is slotted just for this purpose of sliding the engine front to back to get tension set. Read the manual and it says the same thing
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#26 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2018 - 09:32 AM

Thanks Dayton_King.  Yesterday, with the help of my neighbor friend, I think we figured it out.  First I checked that I had the correct belt, it is a 5L77K.  Think K stands for Kevlar?  with my dial calipers it matches perfectly with the old belt, just not stretched sumwhat.  Honestly the old belt is really not in bad shape, but who knows the age and life it had.  So looking and figuring, both the belt retainers were out of adjustment.  After the belt swap, I didn't get them in the correct orientation.  I did move the engine back in the machine about 1/4 inch.  I believe it is too far back now in relationship to the clutch pulley so I will fine tune that.  My manual did not show that adjustment.  There must be a more in depth service manual that I need to find.  End result is it works!


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#27 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2018 - 10:25 AM

So I have the owners manual and the parts manual from this site.  All great info.  Is there a Service Manual available? I did not see any listed.  Thanks.

Mark


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#28 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2018 - 11:02 AM

So I have the owners manual and the parts manual from this site.  All great info.  Is there a Service Manual available? I did not see any listed.  Thanks.

Mark

I've not seen one.


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#29 Mncdriver OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2018 - 08:32 PM

Dayton_King, I am curious, where/what manual did you find the info to adjust the engine.  My inter web searches are nothing but crickets. 



#30 Dayton_King OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2018 - 01:14 PM

It was in an owners manual I had. I can post pics if needed of the slots in the frame that the motor slides on




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