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Question on Sears Garden Tractor?


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#1 Larry OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2010 - 07:33 PM

I have just gotten a Sears Tractor model number 91725750, serial number 3309, with an Onan engine Model number 52379A, serial number 1172581430, and a Sears loader, model number 100.26230 serial number 389.
Is this a SS 16 Tractor with a 16 horsepower engine? year?

I have found a Sears hydraulic loader operators manual for a model number 100.262301. They look the same except for where the pump is located. Are they the same. I have looked very close at the tag that is riveted to the loader and cannot see a last digit of 1 on the tag.

Thanks in advance

#2 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2010 - 07:49 PM

Hi Larry, welcome to GTtalk. I don't know much about the Sears tractors but I am sure someone can help you out. I edited your post title to help get more attention and I also moved it to the Sears forum.

Is the tractor yellow and white? If it is there is a good chance it is a SS16 and it would have a 16hp in it. Nice having a loader isn't it?

#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2010 - 07:58 PM

I'd bet Tractormike can help you with this. He has a Sears GT with a loader...I believe his is a "Quikway" made for Sears. He'll likely see this soon & chime in. MIKE.....calling Tractormike!

#4 tractormike OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2010 - 09:27 PM

Larry, I think your tractor would be very close to my Sears with the loader on it. My tractor is a model 917.25181. It is a 16/6 Twin that is yellow and white.It has the 16 horse onan engine in it and was built around 1977 as that is the date on the manual for it. I have a 1975 Sears fall and winter catalog that lists the 16 hosrepower tractor as a model SS/16 but doesn't give a regular model/part number for the tractor. One difference between the two tractors is I think yours would have a metal gas tank mounted under the seat and mine has a plastic gas tank.
On the loader, mine is a model 100.26230. If you look in the Sears forum under my Sears tractor there are a couple of pictures of my loader. Mine is a later one with the more compact self leveling bars. The earlier ones had the self leveling bars set up differently and they stuck out more from the main beams of the loader. I'm not sure if loader model number should have a 1in it. I kind of think the number system should be three didgits, decimal point and then 5 didgits but I might be wrong.
I'll have to do some more digging but that is what info I have so far for you, hope it helps you out!

UPDATE

Larry.I did find some more info. The loader number you have 100.262301 does come up and seems identical to the loader I have 100.26230.
Your tractor model 917.25750 is an SS 16 built in either 1973 or 1974.

Edited by tractormike, April 03, 2010 - 09:28 PM.
add info

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#5 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2010 - 04:45 AM

:welcometogttalk:Larry,glad to have you here.

#6 Larry OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2010 - 07:46 PM

Thanks to all who replied. These forums are one of the best parts of the internet. My first project is to get the loader working properly.

The controls leak and the bucket creeps down. The cylinders do not leak externally.
Is there a rebuild kit for the controls. Do I have to buy a new one(if available) Find a simular unit and adapt it to fit, disassemble it and look for parts?

I called a local hydraulic parts and repair shop (just for laughs)and they say $1,000.00 if a complete rebuild or replacement is necessary!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any thoughts on where to start are very much appreciated.

LARRY

#7 tractormike OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2010 - 08:43 PM

If your bucket creeps down it could be either the control valve leaking by internally or one or both of the bucket cylinders could be leaking internally. A bad seal on the bucket cylinder ram could let oil leak past and that would cause the bucket to drop. I looked up the part numbers and then looked at the sears parts site and kits are available and in stock for the cylinders and control valve. The kit for the control valve lists spool orings as part of the kit. I have not had my valve apart but normally the spool valve is a select fit to the housing and if worn it will let the cylinders leak down. You might want to take yours apart and see if there are orings that seal on the spool valve. Here are the part numbers and price for the kits from sears. Control valve kit 100285 $9.07, bucket cylinder kit 100229 $32.82, lift cylinder kit 100230 $28.28.
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#8 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2010 - 08:54 PM

Welcome to The Forum, Larry:welcometogttalk:

#9 tractormike OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2010 - 09:02 PM

I did a little more parts digging. The control valve itself or the bucket cylinder assembly is no longer available. The lift cylinder number does come up 100033 @ $219.83. I would probably try a control valve kit first as long as that is already leaking. Then if the bucket still creeps down try cylinder kits. As long as they are fairly cheap it would be worth a try. It wouldn't be the end of the world if you needed a new control valve. Other ones can be made to work. Just my thoughts, Mike

#10 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 08:02 PM

That and the rebuilt kits are a lot cheaper then what the shop quoted him of $1,000 LOL

#11 Larry OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2010 - 12:42 PM

Gentlemen
My Computer has been down for a while. I will order both kits and and start with the control. If that fixes the problem having the cylinder kit on the shelf seems a good idea for the future. Again thank you all for the information. I will keep you posted on the progress and I am sure more questions will follow.

Larry
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#12 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2010 - 02:07 PM

More than likely the cylinder piston seals are at fault. About the only thing to replace i most controls are o-rings to stop external leaks. The valves are pretty much just control shafts in the metal body.




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