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Snowblower attachment questions


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#31 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2017 - 07:16 AM

OK I think I have everything I'm gonna need for this contraption. We will see this weekend as I try and reassemble it.

Next question; I want to add conveyor belt material to the 2nd stage impeller vanes. This blower has 6 vanes. Do I have to put belting onto all 6 vanes or would it be OK to just use it on every other, giving me 3 "extended" impeller vanes to scrape the housing clean?????



#32 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2017 - 07:48 AM

Do all six for balance and to keep it cleaned out.
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#33 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2017 - 08:23 AM

Yeah I was thinking about that, but I was thinking that doing just the 3 (every other one) would balance just the same.
I have done this before on smaller walk behinds and the difference in friction is huge as opposed to not having the rubber flaps. Yeah I know that I will have 19hp turning this one instead of 8, but it's gotta clear 48" instead of 28". But this unit has more gap between the impeller and housing than any other 2 stage machine that I have ever seen. Thing is that I don't really see a lot of wear on the vanes like I have on some machines.

#34 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2017 - 10:02 AM

Mine has a lot of clearance as well. I've thought of adding in belting but so far it seems to work fine for me and I have been using it like this for 15 plus yrs.Often thought about making the clearance less jut never did it. 


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#35 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2017 - 10:12 AM

I started trying to get mine apart this morning to do the exact same thing. I am going with rubber for this winter, but I will tear it apart in the spring. My paddles are bent back on the forward corners, and the gap is over 1/4". I will try to weld in new ends on the paddles.

IMG_1168.JPG IMG_1173.JPG

Edited by Cat385B, December 23, 2017 - 10:56 AM.


#36 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2017 - 04:45 PM

yeah Cat, the Sears  tracked walk behind that I flipped last year was worn tapered like you show, this one's still pretty square and the edges weren't ragged like yours looks and that Sears one was....  

I figure "now's the time" to put the flaps onto the impeller,  being that I have the whole machine in pieces. I played with that Sears a bunch to get it set just right, there wasn't much difference in how far the rubber would protrude between "just right" and "smoke the belt" because it wouldn't budge.  If I can get that clearance down from 1/2" to about 1/16" that would be about right.

I am just starting the reassembly process today, I think I finally have all the pieces and parts I need..... hope so anyways.... got a lot of the small parts sitting in the garage strung onto a piece of EMT straddled by 2 sawhorses, drying... I blasted them myself and rattle canned them with black Appliance Epoxy paint.... 

I had the major pieces sandblasted and powdercoated in the interest of time, being that we are into winter.... cost me more than I would have expected. but it is done. which it wouldn't be if I had to wait til theweather warmed up so that I could blast and paint it myself..... meaning it would do me no good for this winter.



#37 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2018 - 03:06 PM

ok, hope someone is still with me here, and these questions isn't too "buried," for those that know better than me, to see and answer

 

I disassembled the auger gearbox down to bare components, to replace the seals and to look at the bronze gear, bushings and bearings. Now, it is reassembly time.

Along with the impeller shaft seal I had to replace the pipe plug that retains the back bearing, holds that seal, and controls preload on the tapered beatings.

 

2 questions about that plug.....

In the parts breakdown where this plug is called out (key #30 as I remember) there is a (*) next to the key number callout, and it just says "use an industrial sealant"  That statement is a little broad. Anybody know one that would be suitable? I would think that regular thread sealant with Teflon would suffice to keep that expensive Ariens fluid from seeping past the threads.  I'm thinking that this said sealant would also have some thread locking qualities as this plug also holds preload tension on those tapered bearings.   Maybe not? 

 

also; I don't have the "factory tool" (spanner wrench of some sort),  nor a factory manual to go by, for how tight to set the preload on those bearings.  I had to disassemble it with a blunt chisel and a hammer. How "tight" does that preload have to be?  I have rebuilt differentials on cars and trucks before, where they give a spec for how many in/lb  it should take to turn the pinion shaft.... no real way to put a socket onto a round shaft to measure like that.  The measuring preload is probably overkill/ over thinking this thing, but how "tight" should I tighten that pipe plug? Should there be any in/out movement "at all," in that impeller shaft when that pipe plug is set right?



#38 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2018 - 05:49 PM

First off I've just used the high heat red silicone on the pipe plug threads ,turned the plug in untill it was snug , with no  ,in /out movement of the shaft and left it like that.As for a wrench I was lucky enough to make something out of a old snowmobile track wrench. Looks like a horse shoe with a handle on it and just had to bend the end's 90 degrees to fit into the slots of the plug. Been working like this for a few years now with no leak.BTW I change the gear oil every year regardless of how much it gets used. 


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#39 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2018 - 07:33 PM

What do you use for gear lube in yours?
I think that I have that plug a little too snug, I could feel the rollers when I spin the impeller shaft. How do you drain yours to replace the fluid? There's no drain plug only a fill plug.

#40 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2018 - 10:09 PM

I use a 75 -90 w gear oil non synthetic. I drain mine by removing the fill level plug and flipping the back of the blower up so that it's resting on the front this place's the fill plug straight down.


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#41 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2018 - 10:34 PM

I just alternated side to side with the blunt chisel.  I might back it off just a wee bit and hope it "loosens" a little under load.my concern is that it could vibrate loose while using it if I do loosen it that wee bit....

 

I have it full of that gold dust treated (expensive, $12 for 8 oz bottle, over $140 for a gallon)  Ariens lube, looks red and pours about the same as the Mystik 75w140 synthetic lube I picked up just before deciding to choke and buy the "real" stuff.  I have heard that a similar 75w140 is ok'd for temporary usage only. Temporary as in flushed out and replaced every season?

as far as using regular gear lobe I have heard the same complaints as I did with using regular gear lube in my Jeep transmission... the GL5 spec lubes are bad for yellow metals (brass, copper)  that GL4 spec is what they really want.  I run the Pennzoil Synchromesh (GL4) in my Wrangler and used that a s"assembly lube" putting this gearbox back together.  That 75w140 that I have here lists that it meets both GL4 and GL5 specs.  which I thought those lube specs were all backward compatible, that GL5 automatically superseded and was OK in any application calling for GL4. I guess not.

I have used Red Line MTL  75w80 in my Jeep and my former 5 speed Dakota before without issue.

Ya know, I wonder if there are different oil viscosity specs for gear lube vs motor oil? or synthetic vs conventional??? because that red line stuff pours out of the bottle about like 10w30 motor oil, as does the 75w140... while conventional "90-weight" pours thicker....

 

I have it all together and taped off, and primered.... sticking into a windshield wash bottle about 1/4 full of nuts and bolts as  a counterweight, so it can dry without tipping and falling onto the ground..... gonna spray it with the "appliance black" like I sprayed all the hardware, pulleys, tensioner brackets and such...

 

another headache.... somewhere between my trailer along the house, my son's pickup truck, and the powdercoater I am missing a piece.... one that would be easy to fab up but still aggravating. It is not much larger than a single receptacle box, is a cover by the chute crank.. is MIA.


Edited by dodge trucker, January 01, 2018 - 10:39 PM.


#42 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2018 - 11:36 PM

ok.... got pix and dimensions from Billy M. (THANKS!) to make a new cover piece to go over the chute crank, that has come up missing. 

 

Mocked it all up today, assembled the auger gearbox, impeller, and auger shaft so that I could measure the clearance between the impeller vanes and the housing, looks like about 5/16" for the most part, maybe 3/8" in a couple of spots.  Previously I had asked whether to put the rubber onto all 6 vanes or to just do every other vane for a total of 3..... I have a couple of different thicknesses of conveyor belting here, I figure if I do all 6, then the thinner 1/8" stuff would more likely be OK,  would have to use the thicker heavier belting I would think, if I did every other..... because each would be "wiping for 2 vanes" in that case....

 

had to emery cloth the snot out of the end of the impeller shaft where the pulley that gets driven from the tractor's PTO so that those bearings would slide on without persuasion.... I do not remember hammering on the end of that when I was disassembling everything, I stuck a 5/16" thread bolt down into that hole in the end of the shaft to beat on.... (in a 3/8" hole)  though I did nick the shaft lengthwise when I ground the old, stuck 10" pulley hub  to get it off of there.


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#43 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2018 - 02:07 AM

ok guys somebody still with me I hope???? getting CLOSE to actually having this thing operational.... had a little bit of an oh, $#!t moment when I swapped the lever for front lift instead of rear lift.. something that always worked fine before.... but which ever position I had the lever in, the back would operate not the front... dumped my redneck counterweight more than once because of this.... 5 gallon bucket setting on crossbar of sleeve hitch with 2, 5/8" bolts sticking thru the bottom which are drilled for hitch pins.... then I welded up an L bracket to pin it to the 3rd point for the top anchor.... this is (so far) about 3/4 full of concrete, that's all the Sakrete I had laying around.... gonna have to pick up a bag while I am out tomorrow and finish the fill.....   hopefully that plus 2 sets of IH Cub cadet weights bolted to back wheels and nearly new Carlisle V bar tires will get me some traction.....  no chains--- yet, anyways....

 

and the front lift took over once the back lift was all the way raised up....  I don't remember that about this machine. 

 

I used my cherry picker and a strap to get it lifted off of my temporary makeshift workbench (the pallet the powdercoater gave me when I got it back, set on some sawhorses)  

It is now on the tractor, all connected and ready to try out.... except for 2 things.... 1) that box cover over the drum that the chute cable wraps itself around, have to drill a couple of holes in a piece of 1/16x3/4 or 1" flat stock to hold that end of the belt guard up off of the pulleys for now.... 

 

and 2) the cable itself for the chute rotation.... Ariens "only" wants $102.00 for a piece of 3/32" cable that is probably no more than 8' long at best.... I got one meant for a Deere off Ebay for about 1/10 of that cost, but unless my idea of how it is supposed to wrap and connect to everything all wrong I think that one will be a bit short.... time to stop at Lowe's when I drop my wife off at work in the morning (wow it IS morning, by almost an hour already) and get some of their $1 or so per foot,, 3/32" cable from their bulk roll and try again.....   

I did wind up doing the impeller mod on 3 of the 6 vanes... evenly spaced, shouldn't bother balance much that way... 3 vanes is better than none as it was before.  I used a Roloc sanding disc on a straight air powered die grinder to trim the new rubber flaps to size thru the chute hole.... I have them not quite touching, maybe 1/16" of clearance or so.... maybe a touch less but they are as long as they can be without touching the housing.... barely can see daylight in there w/a flashlight...

 

had a hard time remembering how some of it went back together, a few trips in the house for Google searches (that mostly led me everywhere but where I wanted to be)  and searches here and on a couple of other forums that I rarely visit for picture help,  but I got it all together and mounted now....  finally....pics here, in ancient "for sale" ads many pages buried,  turned out to be the best help remembering how certain pieces were supposed to go back on there....

 

gonna tally up how much that I have in this attachment some time  after I try it out  I'm afraid to know..... wife's been complaining about how many Ebay entries are on the charge card recently/ I do know that.... ( and most of those are directly related to this project)

 

Other than that chute control drum cover, that I know that I DID have, as I remember removing it and setting it on my son's flatbed pickup for him to take to the powdercoat guy but is now MIA,  there are 2 other pieces I am missing which I never did have... these are the hangers for the lift assist springs that hook from the tractor to the blower arms,..... got the springs but no hanger arms.... anyone got any of these pieces laying around collecting dust?   Gonna fab something up for now on both until I can find the right pieces that it is supposed to have on it.

 

This blower looks brand new, it's almost shameful what the machine that it is mounted to, looks like.... time to tear one of my tractors apart and make it match this newly overhauled blower..... tractors run and drive, so for now that will have to be good enough on those. .


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#44 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2018 - 05:26 AM

Good luck! Some pics might help understand what you have going there!



#45 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2018 - 05:36 AM

Good to hear it is ready to try out!




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