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Snowblower attachment questions


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#16 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2017 - 06:18 PM

Massey Driver,

​I now have mine completely in pieces and have had ALOT of time looking at it as I have disassembled it, and have looked at, USED,  and have worked on many snow blowers over the years,  the Cub Cadet QA-42A  snow blower attachment that I have here and my Deere 828D walk behind (which is actually an Ariens built machine) 

Looking at that baffle that you say to remove, I was all ready to cut the few spot welds that hold it in place, but didn't. The Cub is a single stage, so I don't know if that is a fair comparison. most other machines I see, the discharge chute is completely open, not half blocked off.

But in this case I do not see where taking that baffle out will benefit much if anything. The reason being, look at the length of that 2nd stage impeller. It is just the width of the portion of the chute that is open. If the impeller were  longer, as in the length being the same as the diameter of the opening without the baffle, I could see it being a restriction. But since the remaining opening in the discharge is no skinnier than the impeller, I think it might hurt throwing distance and volume. 

I would have to cut the housing itself to match the size of the chute opening along with that baffle. 

but output wise I don't see how it would throw more,  or throw farther, unless I were able to retrofit a thicker 2nd stage impeller wheel.



#17 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2017 - 06:49 PM

Let's see if this works, had someone come over that knows more about electronic crap than me

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#18 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2017 - 08:53 PM

I understand what your saying that the paddles aren't any wider then that smaller opening with that plate in. My bad I forgot to mention that I also bent the paddles a bit to catch and throw more snow.I bent them wide enough that they don't interfere with the fligthe  augers.? I also changed the pulleys and made the rpms faster.I also added in a reversing gear box because of how the MF scut and now Kubota have the mid PTO turning the opposite rotation. Believe it makes a difference. When your blowing snow with it the way it is your moving a lot slower,by opening it up and bending the paddles a bit to make them wider your able to move along faster with less snow pushing happening by going a bit faster.You can keep it the way you like but I've made mine this way after using it the oem way and I find it works better.Just keep it the way that it is and if your happy with it that thats all that matters.I'v made mine and modified it to where it works really good for me. So I was just giving you a idea on what you can do to increase your ground speed and blowing distance.Sorry forgot to mention the other mods that I had done. Guess getting older and having done this quite a few years ago it slipped my mind. Like I say I modified mine to work best for me.I was disappointed with how it used to work so that is why I did the mods to mine.


Edited by massey driver, December 10, 2017 - 08:58 PM.

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#19 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2017 - 09:11 PM

since the 2nd stage impeller spins so much faster than the 1st stage ones by bending the blades I would be afraid of throwing the unit off balance to induce a vibration..... 

I wonder how much interchange there is among Ariens blowers and what series is compatible with what?  I bought me a ring gear from some obviously older model Ariens walk behind, with the idea of adding an electric motor for the chute rotation,  looking among EPay, I see some ariens chutes that appear to have this ring as a permanent (non removable) part of the chute,   others not. I see they want as much for one of the tall chutes by themselves on EPay,  as I see complete running snow blowers asking prices on CL.... not gonna buy a whole walk behind just for a chute though/ 

looking at the pitch of the teeth on this ring gear, it looks very similar to what I remember on older cars/ trucks power window motors that had the 1/4 round gear and "scissor lift" style window regulators before they went to the cable drive system that loves to break..,.  I have  a couple of old power window motors around here collecting dust.  I did see a lot of actual snow blower chute rotation motors while I was on EPay earlier today.

 

If I could find a thicker (not larger diameter) impeller I would be more inclined to modify the chute hole like you did....I am gonna add the rubber flaps to the impeller while it is apart, without a doubt..  looking at the individual parts now that it is apart, it looks like this machine had little to no use before the fire, but there is a good 3/8 to 1/2" gap between the 2nd stage impeller blades and the housing, even if I don't wipe the housing with the rubber flaps, I'd like to get that gap down to maybe 1/16".

 

Regarding telling one model from the other, I can tell now that I have it the rest of the way apart, that this one had the auger and impeller blades that were that mouse gray/ almost black color that Ariens liked to use, before the paint was baked off....

I have seen some of these blowers that had the auger and impellers the same orange as the rest of it...   is that a clue as to narrowing down the actual model that I have?


Edited by dodge trucker, December 10, 2017 - 09:14 PM.


#20 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2017 - 08:45 AM

I don't know if you've seen the mod I've done for my chute rotation and deflector chute. I've used a cheap winch for the rotation and a electric window motor and regulator for the deflector.Been using this  way  Since 2009 since  getting my first scut. Here's some pics. of what I did and in one you can see the reversing gear box.If you look close you can also see part of the oem manual chute rotator.

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Edited by massey driver, December 11, 2017 - 08:47 AM.


#21 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2017 - 12:05 PM

I like the idea of a linear actuator for the upper chute control and a small light duty winch for chute rotation.  I may go the winch route for chute rotation, but I really don't need to adjust the upper chute enough to justify adding the linear actuator.  Not mine...but here are some pics I "borrowed" from the interwebs.

 

 

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#22 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2017 - 01:26 PM

Well I bought the auger gearbox to work with me today, I have bigger vises and a bigger press than at home.
Had a tough time getting the spanner nut loose that holds the 2nd stage shaft bearings in place in the gearbox housing, have to replace that nut because the seals are burnt out of it, as soon as I tipped the drive pulley end down grease started coming out that end of the gearbox. Next hurdle is going to be getting the impeller to move on the shaft, got both roll pins out. It wouldn't budge in my 12 ton press, need to find a way to jig it up so that I don't bend the impeller blades, tried a 1" open end wrench at home and so far no luck. Got more elbow room near the press at work than at home which is a help in itself.

#23 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2017 - 05:46 PM

On both  of mine I was lucky I was able to get the impeller off with a bit of heat and a turning motion. When I put it back together I made sure to use lots of anti seize.


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#24 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2017 - 06:28 PM

It's apart. It just took a bigger press. I had the big torch ready just in case...
One problem was that the impeller blades stuck out farther than the hub, so in order to avoid bending the impeller,
I took a 1-1/8" nut and cut it in half with a sawzall, then a die grinder with a burr bit just ground it smooth, took the threads out of the nut.
Then I welded the nut back together around the impeller shaft and set the nut on the press bed to bear against. When it released it did so with a he11 of a "POP" and grunted the whole way out, I had to press it ALL the way out of the impeller.
Just to be able to remove the gland nut from the gearcase. It has a seal built in to it that was a casualty of the fire. Otherwise I wouldn't have worried about getting the impeller off of the shaft.
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#25 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2017 - 06:31 PM

Massey, I like the idea for the chute top except for the exposed gear would definitely be a hazard for me..,.. I have a similar idea to what you did there, looking to take that idea to rotate the chute
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#26 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2017 - 06:40 PM

ok, got the housing and impeller back looking like brand new, accumulating the random small parts, wow ariens  must put gold dust in their parts.......

i have gotten as much as possible from other sources for less, but theres one that i need at least according to the parts blow up  diagram, I never found any  remnant of  it as I  dismantled it, key number  90 on there, a "spherical washer" that the tension spring (#91) for the end of the chute rotation drum seats against, anyone have an idea what it looks like? Is this something that I can make??? How important is it?

Jacks lists it for a whole $3 (big deal) but they have no picture of it available, and every other place that I have asked says its  NLA. 



#27 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2017 - 05:56 PM

I looked at the parts dia; and don't really understand what it would do.The compression spring sits between that spherical washer which goes against the cable hub and a flat washer on the other end. Now you have me curious I'll have to maybe take mine apart just for fun to see what that spherical washer does,or if mine has one.I'll do that tommorro.


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#28 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2017 - 06:40 PM

Great let me know if it looks like something that could be either:
Done without

Another more common (not necessarily oem Ariens) part substituted for this. OR

Made/fabricated

I know that the spring was collapsed and had almost no tension left. And I have one coming along with that pulley that I had to ruin to remove plus belts and flat idlers and a few more odds and ends. IDK why they think that little spring is worth$25.
I am looking for as much as possible equivalent parts and trying to stay away from oem Ariens parts. I got gates green belts coming, Stens idlers that I found for less than 1/2 of what I could find OEM parts for.. all the seals for the gearbox same way. Found CR brand by the dimensions getting 3 for what Ariens wanted for 1.

Going to go to the bearing house for the idler bearings and the one for the impeller housing. IAM still gonna have alot more into it than I thought I would, even looking for all the best prices I can find, no taxes and free shipping, etc.

Edited by dodge trucker, December 16, 2017 - 06:54 PM.


#29 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2017 - 10:13 AM

Took some pics of it. As you can see the spherical washer , is cone shaped. It sits against the back side of the mounting plate that's part of the snowblower .It's sandwiched between the spring and flat washer and held on by a cotter pin.The cable hub has that cone shape as well and sits on the other side of the mounting plate. I suppose that the washer is cone shaped to sort of keep some tension on the cable drum to help keep it from wanting turn turn on its own when blowing snow. The spherical washer has a 11/16" ID and approx 1 1/4" OD by 1/16" thick. You could probably make and shape one by placing a flat washer on top of a trailer hitch ball and tapping with a hammer. The flat washer has a 5/8" ID a 1 1/4" OD and is 3/16 thick. Hope this helps with what it looks like and how you can make one.

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#30 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2017 - 10:59 AM

I had read somewhere that Ariens says to "adjust " spring tension with additional flat washers  under the cotter pin.  

I see I could possibly make that missing piece  in my press pretty quick, don't look like rocket science. Thanks for doing that.






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