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Questions about MF 8


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#16 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2011 - 09:33 PM

Just a quick note, I switched the High/Low pulley around tonight, couldn't have taken more than 30 minutes. Drove the tractor around some more, it is still doing well. Low first is a now a slow gear indeed, perfect for cutting through thick grass I'm sure. I'll be going to my "local" Massey dealer tomorrow and getting a belt for my 12G that needs some work. My local dealer (20+ miles one way) says he stocks the blades I need, we'll see tomorrow.

Howard

#17 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 06:24 AM

I guess I should be paying attention to all your Governor linkage problems. I may have trouble with mine when the engine goes back together later this year.



My setup is different than OE, in that whomever rebuild the carb before, did a
good job bushing the throttle shaft to get rid of the slop, but the return spring
doesn't fit over their bushing. So they rigged up a return spring which can
be seen in picture. I'm narrowing it down, but I'm almost sure the issue I'm haveing,
is being caused by either too strong/or too weak of a spring.
Other than that, I think I got things right.
Or am I missing something obvious?

What is the correct proceedure for adjusting the gov arm/clamp?
That picture/description in the service manual still has me scratching my head.

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#18 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 07:02 AM

It's been a long time since I have even looked at the engine. The carb and the head are off it right now. I'll have a look at the carb linkage and spring and perhaps take some pictures for you. Just looking at it I would say that the spring is too long (it should be about the same overall length but have a shorted coil). I'll check mine and let you know what I find. I have a question for you. When painting an engine do you just use regular paint? I have not painted one before. I know the muffler needs a high heat paint but the block etc. is something I was wondering about.

#19 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 11:05 AM

Yes, I've just been painting the engines with Flint Metallic grey. Little bit of discolouration within about an inch
of exhaust flange, but that's it.

Which spring are you talking about?

#20 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 01:34 PM

The spring that they jury rigged for the throttle return. In the second picture it looks like there is no tension on it with the throttle closed. Maybe that is just the picture. The original has tension on it with the throttle closed. I was thinking if you had a spring that was a bit shorter then it would have some tension on it even when the throttle was closed. If the spring had some straight wire at either end it would be easier to hook up without binding.
I cannot find the governor spring or any of the throttle linkage that is attached to the side of the blower housing. I have no idea where it is. I remember painting that stuff but it is not with all the other small parts that are ready for installation. I hate it when I loose stuff like that. :wallbanging:

#21 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 03:18 PM

The spring that they jury rigged for the throttle return. In the second picture it looks like there is no tension on it with the throttle closed. Maybe that is just the picture. The original has tension on it with the throttle closed. I was thinking if you had a spring that was a bit shorter then it would have some tension on it even when the throttle was closed. If the spring had some straight wire at either end it would be easier to hook up without binding.
I cannot find the governor spring or any of the throttle linkage that is attached to the side of the blower housing. I have no idea where it is. I remember painting that stuff but it is not with all the other small parts that are ready for installation. I hate it when I loose stuff like that. :wallbanging:



Yes, you got that right about the spring in the second pic. I replaced it with the one in the first pic , and have been playing
with rotating that bracket by the choke cable clamp. In a counterclockwise direction. Seems to be acting better.
I'm also wondering if that spring from the throttle cable to the invereted "L" arm might be too long. Judging by Howards picture.

That's frustrating isn't it when you squirrel something away, but then, "where is it?"
You'll find it.

#22 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 08:13 PM

Hi Sherwood,

Wanted to comment on some things about the governor setup. First off, the spring pictured in my linkage setup was the closest to a fit that was available at the local hardware store. That means it is NOT original, just something I was trying. The previous owner simply used a peice of wire there. Needless to say, the throttle response was VERY touchy and the governor served no function. Secondly, I have no throttle return spring. The job of the governor is to push the throttle closed, and the faster the engine runs, the more vigorously the governor tries to close the throttle. The spring between the "L" arm and the throttle arm/wire is intended to pull on the governor and cause the throttle to open. More tension on the spring forces the throttle open against the governor, until increased engine speed increases the force on the governor arm and a new balance of engine speed is established. My advice to you is to remove the return spring on the throttle and see what happens. My guess is that your engine doesn't want to do much more than idle right now, right?

Edited by HowardsMF155, July 09, 2011 - 08:33 PM.


#23 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 08:31 PM

Local Massey dealer had the blades I was looking for. I took some time this evening to just drive around and get the feel of the tractor handling. The kids again had a ball driving for a while too. I then installed the new blades on the deck and then re-installed the deck on the tractor. Drove about 100 feet, smoke started coming from somewhere near the front of the tractor, I stopped and then there was an ominous clacking sound and the engine slowed down and died away. I think I threw a rod.:wallbanging: Dunno what I'll do next, but I am terribly disappointed. Wonder if one of those Carrollstream diesels would fit.

Howard

#24 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2011 - 08:43 PM

Sounds like you got Murphys law working against you, that's too bad, the HM80 and HM100(10hp) are a popular engine, might be able to find one off a snowblower or something.

#25 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2011 - 01:42 PM

Howard, sorry to hear about that engine of yours. Hopefully you can find a good replacement, or rebuild it easily enough.
Thanks for the input on my deal.

#26 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2011 - 09:21 PM

I would like some feedback from everyone about my options at this point. If I rebuild the block,new bearings, bore the cylinder, generally return the block to new, can anyone estimate a price on that? Or, I found some engines on e-bay (search tecumseh formula) for around 500 that look like the old engine in my tractor. Anyone seen these formula engine and are they a good match?

#27 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2011 - 09:48 PM

What you do at this point depends on your plans/intentions for the tractor.
Are you trying to keep it original/restore it?
Or make it run real good to work it? There have been a bunch of guys that have repowered, with various engines.
If you where to do a search on that, you'll get lots of ideas.

From the sounds of it, you want to keep it as original as possible.
I think your best bet might be to find an original replacement engine from blowers, as DH1 suggested. (if you want to keep it original)
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#28 Stoneman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:38 AM

Just a thought, but northern tool still sells a brand new HM100 that would bolt right up without modifications and also give you a couple extra pony's.

Tecumseh Horizontal Engine — 10 HP, 1in. x 2 7/8in. Shaft, Model# HM100-159486V | 241cc - 390cc Tecumseh Horizontal Engines | Northern Tool + Equipment
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#29 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2011 - 06:13 AM

Just an update on the gov/carb linkage issues.
I removed a bit more tension on the throttle return spring, and things are working much better now.
I'm getting smooth throttle response in both directions.
At idle, it wanders a bit, but I noticed that the gov arm was moving a bit. The spring from the throttle
cable to the "L" bracket is loose when at idle. I'm sure a bit shorter spring there will solve that wandering issue.




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