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Questions about MF 8


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#1 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2011 - 10:14 PM

Ok, got some questions about this new to me MF8

Rollers on front and rear of mower deck: Is this a striping kit (what I was told) or are these rollers the height adjustment for the deck?

The manual shows an idler pully that can be manually swapped back and forth for a "high speed" and "low speed" set of speed ranges. Is this true and which is better for lawn mowing?

How much lining material should be on the brake calipers?

My sector gear shaft appears to have some broken teeth. The manual covers removing both the sector gear shaft and the steering column, along with the mount. Can I simply remove the front carrier for the sector gear and slide the shaft forward and then replace?

Thanks,
Howard

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2011 - 10:22 PM

The rollers are for anti-scalping, unless they are something special.

The brakes are 3/16 when new I think. As long as they can be adjusted up without rubbing metal, they should be OK.

As for the rear end, never had to get in one.

Good luck! Let us know what you find.

#3 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2011 - 05:59 AM

"The manual shows an idler pully that can be manually swapped back and forth for a "high speed" and "low speed" set of speed ranges. Is this true and which is better for lawn mowing?"


Manual says high range is ok for cutting. I'm in the midst of resto'g mine as well, so I can't tell you from experience.
My way of thinking is that I'm gonna set it up for low range. Sloooower means more seat time. And easier on the rigging.

Haven't had to touch the steering, so I can't help you there either.sorry

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2011 - 01:55 PM

Ok, got some questions about this new to me MF8



My sector gear shaft appears to have some broken teeth. The manual covers removing both the sector gear shaft and the steering column, along with the mount. Can I simply remove the front carrier for the sector gear and slide the shaft forward and then replace?

Thanks,
Howard


Howard

I just went out and had a look at the steering on my 8. I have the chassis restored. It looks like you cannot get that steering sector out of the tractor without some major disassembly. I remember when I restored it the steering was about the last thing to come off the frame. Too bad it's busted. My 8 was generally pretty beat but the steering was like new after I got it cleaned up.
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#5 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2011 - 09:47 PM

Howard

I just went out and had a look at the steering on my 8. I have the chassis restored. It looks like you cannot get that steering sector out of the tractor without some major disassembly. I remember when I restored it the steering was about the last thing to come off the frame. Too bad it's busted. My 8 was generally pretty beat but the steering was like new after I got it cleaned up.


Thanks Brian,

I spent a lot of time on it today, and it was a fairly major operation. The manual covered most of the procedure fairly well, but was not clear about removing the clutch/brake shaft. I had to remove the clutch/brake shaft as well as everything else specified in the manual. The old sector gear had nearly every tooth on the "turn left" section of the gear ground away. I was able to slide in a new one eventually. More to come tomorrow and pictures.

Howard

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 06:58 AM

Thanks Brian,

I spent a lot of time on it today, and it was a fairly major operation. The manual covered most of the procedure fairly well, but was not clear about removing the clutch/brake shaft. I had to remove the clutch/brake shaft as well as everything else specified in the manual. The old sector gear had nearly every tooth on the "turn left" section of the gear ground away. I was able to slide in a new one eventually. More to come tomorrow and pictures.

Howard


Howard

It isa lot of work to get that out. The quality of that steering assembly is remarkable. It is all cast iron and mine had virtually no wear when I restored it. I had a lot of slop in the steering and I was worried about the sector and pinion being worn out. When I got it out of the tractor the problem was the key in the shaft, It had worked it's way out. Make sure it is in there tight. I put a hose clamp around the shaft up against the key to prevent it from backing out. There are 2 styles depending on the year of production. Mine had an L shaped key. The other style has a woodruff key. That type will probably never come loose.

#7 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 07:03 AM

Glad you're making headway with it. And thanks Brian for helping out!

#8 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 07:26 AM

Ok, now for some more information and pictures. I wish I had taken pictures yesterday as I was doing this, but I was truly filthy after the first hour. My steering problem was the sector gear was ground down on one side, someone was really imitating NASCAR, going fast and turning left.:smile1:

Per the MF8 service manual posted on this site, I removed the access panels on each side of the frame, and the panel under the dash. Here's my dash, by the way.

What the manual is not too clear about is the need to remove the clutch/brake shaft assembly. I hated to loosen the set screws, figuring that the various levers and attatchments needed some meticulous set up process in order to return to the proper operating position. I was surprised to find that the set screws actually fitted into holes drilled into the cross shaft. So, after removing the two upper bolts, the two lower bolts, and the front bearing for the sector gear shaft, I was forced to remove the cross shaft and the steering column dropped down. I installed a new sector gear and installed an extra spacer on the rear of the shaft to keep the sector gear tight against the steering gear.

After reinstalling everthing, I cranked up and drove out of the shed. Quite the feeling to be tooling around on a four wheel tractor.

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#9 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 07:47 AM

I found and fixed another issue yesterday with my transmission. Originally, the brake had been far out of adjustment and was not working, so when shifting the gears would grind. I hate to think how badly those gears are rounded off. I was able to adjust the brake and stop the tractor, but the transmission belt and input shaft kept whizzing around, even with the clutch depressed. I found that one of the wire retainers that keep the belt in place was actually touching the belt and keeping it in contact with the driving pulley. I moved the retaining wire out and that seems to have solved my grinding problem, as the belt now slows and stops.

Earlier in this thread I asked about the High/Low pulley, this is where that wire is located. I found the following information in the MF8 operating manual.

High range: Low range:

1st gear 2.25 -:-:-: 1.25
2nd gear 4.0 -:-:-: 2.25
3rd gear 6.0 -:-:-: 3.50

I can't say I would want to cut grass at 6 mph, though it might work ok in thin grass and a flat, level area. So far, though, I'm going to leave things as they are. Next up I'll need to fine tune the throttle cable/ governor linkage and get close on the correct spring.

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#10 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 08:23 AM

Howard

It isa lot of work to get that out. The quality of that steering assembly is remarkable. It is all cast iron and mine had virtually no wear when I restored it. I had a lot of slop in the steering and I was worried about the sector and pinion being worn out. When I got it out of the tractor the problem was the key in the shaft, It had worked it's way out. Make sure it is in there tight. I put a hose clamp around the shaft up against the key to prevent it from backing out. There are 2 styles depending on the year of production. Mine had an L shaped key. The other style has a woodruff key. That type will probably never come loose.


My original sector gear had the L shaped key. My replacement was drilled with a bolt through the shaft and gear. I thought at the time that was factory, but with what you say I wonder if that was a modification by another owner (My sector gear was used, from a tractor being parted out on e-bay). The bolt did have a nylock nut on it, so if it wasn't factory, then it was a well thought out modification.

Howard

#11 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 05:09 PM

My original sector gear had the L shaped key. My replacement was drilled with a bolt through the shaft and gear. I thought at the time that was factory, but with what you say I wonder if that was a modification by another owner (My sector gear was used, from a tractor being parted out on e-bay). The bolt did have a nylock nut on it, so if it wasn't factory, then it was a well thought out modification.

Howard


Howard

I would put a key back in there and a clamp like I did. The reason that they use a key is that over time the bolt will wear in the hole and cause slack in the steering. The key has a larger surface area and will not wear or loosen if it is held tight. Great to hear you have it moving. On my tractor it was in low range on the pulleys and seemed to have enough speed for me. Those 8's handle really nice don't they.

#12 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 10:08 PM

Had a chance to drive the MF 8 more today. It really scoots along in high, really too fast for my land, though I could see wanting a transport gear if you had a larger area. I turned around a sign post to head up the steepest hill on my property and found myself with one rear wheel in the air! I'll be selecting the slower speed range for the future. Transmission continued to do well today. Such a relief to slide the lever into gear without grinding. I let my two boys drive sedately in 1st gear around the back yard, gave the engine a chance to warm up thoroughly. It started blowing some light smoke out the breather tube.

Also continued to tweak the throttle cable/governor linkage. It's doing better, though I would prefer to find the correct spring. I don't know if it is because I'm getting the system dialed in, or because I used fresh gas today, but the engine ran better and didn't stumble or cut out once while we were using it today.

Checked the charging system out a little bit. While I couldn't find a voltage rise at the battery since I was running at a fast idle, I did use a clamp on amp meter to check the AC output at just over 2 amps. I need to find a light kit for this little jewel!

Speaking of finding things, I need blades for the Massey 710 deck. The blades are roughly 17 inches long, have a round hole and are "pinned" in place by the washers. The washers are held in place by a double flatted spindle. Does anyone have a source or part numbers for this?

Thanks,
Howard

#13 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2011 - 06:35 PM

Had a chance to drive the MF 8 more today. It really scoots along in high, really too fast for my land, though I could see wanting a transport gear if you had a larger area. I turned around a sign post to head up the steepest hill on my property and found myself with one rear wheel in the air! I'll be selecting the slower speed range for the future. Transmission continued to do well today. Such a relief to slide the lever into gear without grinding. I let my two boys drive sedately in 1st gear around the back yard, gave the engine a chance to warm up thoroughly. It started blowing some light smoke out the breather tube.

Also continued to tweak the throttle cable/governor linkage. It's doing better, though I would prefer to find the correct spring. I don't know if it is because I'm getting the system dialed in, or because I used fresh gas today, but the engine ran better and didn't stumble or cut out once while we were using it today.

Checked the charging system out a little bit. While I couldn't find a voltage rise at the battery since I was running at a fast idle, I did use a clamp on amp meter to check the AC output at just over 2 amps. I need to find a light kit for this little jewel!

Speaking of finding things, I need blades for the Massey 710 deck. The blades are roughly 17 inches long, have a round hole and are "pinned" in place by the washers. The washers are held in place by a double flatted spindle. Does anyone have a source or part numbers for this?

Thanks,
Howard


Good to see all the headway your making, and enjoying it too. Welcome to MF world.

A great place to find out part#'s is
agcopartsbooks.com
sign in as guest.

Also, very usefull is jack's small engines.
Check out mfgsupply.com for blades. I don't know if they have those blades, but they
do have a good selection of universal blades, and adaptors.

Re: Gov linkages. This might help.
http://gardentractor...r-linkage-7308/


I'd be nice if you post some pics of your carb/gov surgery when done.I'm still tweaking mine. It's very stubborn.

Edited by IamSherwood, July 04, 2011 - 06:41 PM.


#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2011 - 07:17 AM

You could also check with our site supporters (listed on the rhs, home page). They help keep this place running. Make sure you mention GTT when you contact them too :D

#15 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2011 - 08:00 AM

Good to see all the headway your making, and enjoying it too. Welcome to MF world.

A great place to find out part#'s is
agcopartsbooks.com
sign in as guest.

Also, very usefull is jack's small engines.
Check out mfgsupply.com for blades. I don't know if they have those blades, but they
do have a good selection of universal blades, and adaptors.

Re: Gov linkages. This might help.
http://gardentractor...r-linkage-7308/


I'd be nice if you post some pics of your carb/gov surgery when done.I'm still tweaking mine. It's very stubborn.


I guess I should be paying attention to all your Governor linkage problems. I may have trouble with mine when the engine goes back together later this year.




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