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LED lights-How powerful?


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#1 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2017 - 07:53 PM

I was looking at driving lights at Farm & Barn the other day. I noticed that the ones with halogen bulbs listed the amps & watts on the box. The ones with LED bulbs only told you how many units there were. How am I supposed to compare a 55 watt halogen light to a 10 LED unit?


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#2 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2017 - 08:14 PM

Good question. Seems doesn't take many LED's to be bright. I also think more thought is put into the reflectors and lenses to get the proper light. A chart for comparison sounds good. Just like they do with household bulbs. Seems tho, they are getting away from that now on packaging.
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#3 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2017 - 09:01 PM

My experience with LED's is that they are bright to look at, but they don't through the light very far. I found a solution, that involves LED street lamps. These seem designed with lenses that help through the light. I got the LED's from damaged/discarded lamps and figured out a way to mount eight individual LEDS in the Craftsman lights keeping the original 1156's intact. You may have seen those threads. This is the only LED modification I have been happy with.  Forgot to add the 8 LEDs pull 0.48 amps at 12 volts.

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Edited by larrybl, November 11, 2017 - 10:17 PM.

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#4 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2017 - 10:21 PM

Wattage is a measure of power consumption, not brightness.  Lumens is the measurement of brightness and good luck finding that number on a halogen bulb or LED.

 

LEDs are very directional.  So there needs to be a lens on the LED itself to disperse the light and that adds to the cost.  So I guess the point is a cheap LED is probably useless.  A pricier one might not be.........


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#5 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2017 - 11:03 PM

The LED's I use have a strange glass lens and are mounted on aluminum bases. The light output is directional making installation a challenge. the light can go up or down depending on orientation. The head light lens diffusion helps some.  

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#6 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 07:49 AM

Hmmm . . .           okay so, if you were going to buy a driving/fog light, would you buy a halogen or an LED and why?


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#7 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 08:49 AM

​Do your work in the daylight and you don't need lights of any kind.  Out of my whole herd, one may have the lights hooked up and have never been turned on.


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#8 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 09:11 AM

Well, that would depend on the charging system. Mine is only a 9 amp system and when running the PTO and 1157's there are only a couple of amps left for battery charging. This is why I use the LED's to "enhance" the light output as eight of them only use  1/2 of an amp.

 

If the amp budget will allow I would go with the halogen, better light output. if I remember my testing, a 35W halogen takes around 3 amps each.   

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Edited by larrybl, November 12, 2017 - 09:12 AM.

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#9 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 09:15 AM

Keep in mind a halogen creates a LOT of heat and should be placed in a proper housing.  


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#10 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 09:22 AM

​Do your work in the daylight and you don't need lights of any kind. Out of my whole herd, one may have the lights hooked up and have never been turned on.

Uh, some people have a thing called a job. That takes the bulk of daylight hours this time of year.
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#11 ShotgunWedding ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 09:52 AM

I went with LED's also to replace 1157's, but I had some learning to do that I can pass on.

 

First I thought that a very bright highest lumen LED with a beam that shot straight out would be the best.  It wasn't.  This was the kind with all the LED's up front, pointing straight out.  What happened was the light got refracted through the front plastic lens which wasn't made for all the beam to go through it straight ahead.  Ended up with light scattered all over the place, up, sideways...it sucked.  Scrapped those.

 

Looking at the situation, the 1157 bulbs emit light all around it, 360 degrees 3 dimensionally.  The back housing for the bulb is a mirrored finished reflective "lens" that takes all of the 3 dimensional light from all around the bulb, reflects and focuses it straight out through the plastic clear lens up front. Hmmmm, Ok, need to find an LED bulb with LED's all over the sides of the bulb that can do the same, send light 3 dimensionally so that the mirror backing of the housing can re-focus properly.

 

Bingo!  Sounds counterintuitive, but it is bang on.  I've never looked back or wished for the old 1157's again.

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#12 KC9KAS ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 10:03 AM

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​This is "Ohms" law...different than "Murphy's" law!


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#13 ShotgunWedding ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 10:09 AM

P=I X E

 

Power in watts = amps draw X Voltage

 

3 amp draw at 12 VDC = 36watts

 

I'm old school, E is voltage or electromotive force.  The way I was taught back in the day.


Edited by ShotgunWedding, November 12, 2017 - 10:10 AM.

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#14 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 10:40 AM

 if you were going to buy a driving/fog light, 

I never said I was going to put it in a stock GT housing.


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#15 secondtry ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 11:53 AM

I went with LED's also to replace 1157's, but I had some learning to do that I can pass on.

 

First I thought that a very bright highest lumen LED with a beam that shot straight out would be the best.  It wasn't.  This was the kind with all the LED's up front, pointing straight out.  What happened was the light got refracted through the front plastic lens which wasn't made for all the beam to go through it straight ahead.  Ended up with light scattered all over the place, up, sideways...it sucked.  Scrapped those.

 

Looking at the situation, the 1157 bulbs emit light all around it, 360 degrees 3 dimensionally.  The back housing for the bulb is a mirrored finished reflective "lens" that takes all of the 3 dimensional light from all around the bulb, reflects and focuses it straight out through the plastic clear lens up front. Hmmmm, Ok, need to find an LED bulb with LED's all over the sides of the bulb that can do the same, send light 3 dimensionally so that the mirror backing of the housing can re-focus properly.

 

Bingo!  Sounds counterintuitive, but it is bang on.  I've never looked back or wished for the old 1157's again.

I am not having any luck locating the light pictured on the net and a store to store search would be very time consuming and costly. Is it possible you could give brand and dealer information, and or a picture of the packaging. Thanks    Don






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