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Would you replace all the injectors on a pick up truck when one fails?


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#16 poncho62 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 10:41 AM

Have you tried an injector cleaner in your gas?

 

http://mycarneedsthi...ector-cleaners/

 

Worth a shot



#17 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 10:44 AM

Sounds like an injector to me. Its pry gotten a little sticky and not opening all the way on small pulse (low rpms).

I would have pry tried a good injector flush first, but yes id def replace all 5.

I had an 08 colorado with the 2.9L 4 cylinder, same engine as the 5 with a cylinder knocked off, it had an odd missfire a few months after i bought it (bought it new) it was some stupid VVT sensor. Luckly it was under warrenty.

#18 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 10:46 AM

CausesA code P0305 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
 
Faulty spark plug or wire 
Faulty coil (pack) 
Faulty oxygen sensor(s) 
Faulty fuel injector 
Burned exhaust valve 
Faulty catalytic converter(s) 
Running out of fuel 
Poor compression 
Defective computer


#19 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 11:27 AM

 

CausesA code P0305 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
 
Faulty spark plug or wire 
Faulty coil (pack) 
Faulty oxygen sensor(s) 
Faulty fuel injector 
Burned exhaust valve 
Faulty catalytic converter(s) 
Running out of fuel 
Poor compression 
Defective computer

 

First two have been ruled out.  Thinking burned valve or poor compression wouldn't be intermittent.  Would expect catalytic converter or O2 sensors to cause problem on multiple cylinders.  Not out of fuel and would expect delivery issue (pump) to be multiple cylinders.

 

That leaves injector and computer.



#20 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 12:28 PM

Time for a new truck, best idea!  :smilewink:  I'ld say 175K is plenty of miles for any vehicle I would own.

What's your plans for the truck? If you're like me and run them into the ground no matter what miles show on the odo, it isn't throwing money away. What would you pay to have it done instead of DIY? How much time would it take to pull apart again if say #2 goes bad next month? Change em all and call it preventive maintenance.

#21 Jazz OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 02:08 PM

Replace all five if you are sure injectors are the issue. They must have some sort of a life expectancy. Depends how much you like tearing into fuel rail.  Is it really that much fun you want to do it a few more times.? :D


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#22 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 04:01 PM

First two have been ruled out.  Thinking burned valve or poor compression wouldn't be intermittent.  Would expect catalytic converter or O2 sensors to cause problem on multiple cylinders.  Not out of fuel and would expect delivery issue (pump) to be multiple cylinders.

 

That leaves injector and computer.

Two more thoughts on this would be a vacuum leak particular to #5 or a sticky valve stem/guide. They are usually worse at idle. Have you tried spraying anything around the intake in that area?


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#23 Reed Breneman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 04:18 PM

Time for a new truck, best idea!  :smilewink:  I'ld say 175K is plenty of miles for any vehicle I would own. 

My Expedition now has 243,000 on it with the 5.4 triton and still runs out great,I average 30,000 to 50,000 a year on my vehicles oh and I would replace all of the injectors since I was there anyway


Edited by Reed Breneman, October 31, 2017 - 04:19 PM.

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#24 Austen ONLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2017 - 06:31 PM

Ordered a full set and the manifold gaskets from Rock Auto.  Hopefully I can forget about them for another 175,000 miles.

 

Good call. It's only a matter of time before you're back in there to do another, then another, and...


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#25 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2017 - 09:04 AM

Well, I took the truck to the shop did them yesterday.  Glad I did the whole set because it took about 8 hours.  The instructions go something like this:

 

Remove fuel rail:

- Remove intake manifold (sec 4.2)

- Unbolt fuel rail and remove.

 

Remove intake manifold:

- Remove throttle body (sec 4.1)

- Remove left wheel (sec 7.8) and fender liner (sec 6.7) to get access to bolts

- Remove wiring support bracket from manifold.

- Remove alternator (sec 5.3) to get to the last manifold bolt that it blocks.

- Unbolt manifold and remove.

 

Remover alternator:

- Remove engine hoist bracket to gain access to alternator.

- Remove AC Compressor (sec. 8.5) to get access to the alternator bolts.

- Unbolt alternator and remove.

 

Fortunately they were wrong about the AC Compressor.  You might have to remove it to actually get the alternator out of the engine compartment but I could move the alternator around enough to get that last manifold bolt.

 

Putting the intake manifold back was a nightmare.  It's C shaped and reaches around the fuel rail to bolt to the head.  You cannot see or access anything from the top because it has a huge plenum that wraps over the top of the engine.  I spent better than an hour rigging up various supports to hold it in position so I could get some bolts started through the wheel well (there isn't enough room through the wheel well to get an extra hand in to position the manifold).  I really could have used a helper.

 

I started it up (about 6PM) and it ran awful, was throwing a code about multi-cylinder misfire.  I hoped it was just air in the fuel line and rail and headed home (13 miles).  Still idled awful.  Figured I probably didn't get a good seal on the manifold at the head and that I'd have to loosen the bolts and re-tighten.

 

This morning it seems fine.  Either it was air in the fuel system or the heating and cooling sealed up my air leak.

 

Fingers crossed that I'm really finished!


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#26 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted November 18, 2017 - 02:44 PM

AN UPDATE

 

On the trip home from work the check engine light came on - lean condition.  But it did run great, smooth as silk.

 

Pulled the wheel back off to look at the intake manifold bolts, I was pretty beat when I put it together.  Turns out one bolt wasn't even finger tight and there were a couple others that needed to be torqued down.

 

Lean condition gone.  Misfire cylinder 5 is back. :wallbanging:

 

Today I did what I should have done first - a compression test.  In order (MIN 150 psi)

 

1 - 180

2 - 190

3 - 190

4 - 200

5 - 110

 

Put a few squirts of oil in #5 and got 120.  Looks like I've got a valve or cam problem on #5.  Now to decide whether to tackle myself or turn it over to a professional.

 

The reason I didn't look for a mechanical problem in the first place is the problem was intermittent.  Looking at the diagnostic scanner today it looks like the weak cylinder may be giving the Powertrain Control Module fits, it goes closed loop and results in a mixture that won't fire consistently in the weak cylinder.


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#27 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted November 18, 2017 - 06:17 PM

That sucks.
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#28 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 12:39 AM

That sucks. 

 

:iagree:



#29 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 06:04 AM

Sorry to hear the new injectors didn't fix it . Just doing a search  for your truck and "engine missifire" came up with info about Chevy extending the engine  warranty to 100k  for some head/valve issues . I don't think a hydraulic lifter could fail in the extend position , (trapping oil then keeping the valve slightly open ). Not sure what route I would go next , Good luck 



#30 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 07:58 AM

Sorry to hear the new injectors didn't fix it . Just doing a search  for your truck and "engine missifire" came up with info about Chevy extending the engine  warranty to 100k  for some head/valve issues . I don't think a hydraulic lifter could fail in the extend position , (trapping oil then keeping the valve slightly open ). Not sure what route I would go next , Good luck 

 

Truck has 176K miles so no extended warranty for me.

 

It looks like the answer is a remanufactured head no matter what the actual issue is.  They come with the valve train installed - just bolt on.  Remanuractured heads are about $800, figure another couple hundred for head bolts (they're single use), gaskets, coolant etc.

 

Ten years ago I would have got the parts on hand, set aside a weekend, and done it myself.  Body is ten years older now and I've got a pretty full plate of other stuff that needs my attention.  Probably just open the wallet on this one.

 

It was a California truck until three years ago, so even though it's ten years old there isn't a speck of rust on it.  Well worth the investment to keep it going.


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