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2 lift cylinders on a PK, How to do it


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#31 Glenn Ayers ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2017 - 04:45 PM

zuren

Here's a drawing of the new arm you will need to weld to your rockshaft to move the cylinder to the rear lower left like a 1980 PK;

The arm gets positioned at a 90 degree angle to the lift arms that are welded to the outboard ends of the rockshaft.

I remember you saying something about leaving the OEM lift bar that now rotates the rockshaft, in place. ??

If so .... then I would attack this new arm this way >     Fasten a bungee cord to the top of your existing rockshaft arm & pull it to its forward most position (as in fully lifting an implement) ... with your cylinder now affixed in it's new rear lower left position ... FULLY extend the cylinder.    Mark with chalk, your spacing from the side of the bearing block (A) (1-7/16") ... to the side edge of your new arm (B) which you should have prefabricated & have in hand.  Pin the new arm to the Fully extended cylinder & position it against the rockshaft ... to the chalk mark & see if it puts the new arm at a 90 to the outer lift arms ©. 

It may be more or less than a 90 ... but I would say to weld it on at a 90 if you can.  This will prevent your lift arms from ending up at some funky unusable angle.

 

BTW     You will see in the drawing a lift arm measurement of 2-1/4" from the center of hole to the shaft .... keep in mind that this is just where the arm meets the shaft ... you will need this arm longer to cut in the radius so it fits around the shaft a little for welding.

Total length of the arm should be around 3-1/2"

Making this arm longer & adding more holes will give you more lifting power (by moving the cylinder pinning)... but shorten your lifting travel

Just tips to keep you from looking at measurements & cutting plates too short.

Another tip .... Use good deep penetrating weld on this new lift arm to the rockshaft !  It WILL BREAK OFF IF NOT WELDED PROPERLY !

(don't ask me how I know)

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#32 zuren OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2017 - 04:42 PM

I spent some time with my tractor and a tape measure last night.  I can confirm that the frame of a 1979 Power King is like that of the earlier 1970s models.  I have a cross-member roughly 14" forward of the end of the main frame rails.  

 

So if you have a 1970s vintage Power King, I feel it is safe to say that the solution for mounting the cylinder is what you see in Post #17.


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#33 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2017 - 03:02 PM

Would think could use same cross' shaft of solid metal with TWO outer sections seperate from each other, but still using same cross bar for support. If not seperate, they will just be fighting each other and not work. You could use the older outer cylinder going back to the 3pt, then put another lower tab below, just like on left side on tractor with lower cylinder. Have a rod from that new link go up to the new outer part on the center of tractor as I noted. This would allow the 3pt to be seperate as is now, but option of putting other items on same cylinder by mounting tabs below on rockshaft.  Then with lower cylinder on other side and it's half of rockshaft with tabs, could run front blade or deck or other items all depending on where you mount lift tabs.



#34 zuren OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2017 - 10:35 AM

Regarding the cylinder for the lifting the 3 pt. - are we forced into sourcing a used PK cylinder or is there a modern option available?  There was a used PK cylinder posted on Ebay for $60 (I think) but no longer see it.

 

Regarding the idea of a hydraulic top link, I found this option for Cat 0 - https://www.agristor...raulic-top-link

 

I suppose you could also use a shorter Cat 1 top link and use adapter sleeves to size it down to the Cat 0 pins.


Edited by zuren, November 13, 2017 - 10:40 AM.

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