Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

remove hydraulic cylinder


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 plowmaster54 OFFLINE  

plowmaster54
  • Member
  • Member No: 86677
  • 6 Thanks
  • 6 posts
  • Location: Texas

Posted October 29, 2017 - 01:47 PM

First time to post here. I have a LGT 165 that has a leaking hydraulic cylinder. I'm trying to remove the cylinder to repair/replace and am stumped on how to remove. There is not enough clearance to remove the upper connection. It looks like I need to move the hydraulic lift arm inboard on its shaft app. 2 inches to gain the clearance. I have removed the cotter pin and set screw, but no luck in getting it to move.

 

I have been spraying PB Blaster into the set screw hole as well as the slot for the key on the shaft and have tried prying with a bar,but so far no luck. Has anyone else run into this problem and how did you solve it?

I have not tried heat yet, I'm thinking that may have to come next.

 

Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions!

 

 


  • pryan05 said thank you

#2 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 35,791 Thanks
  • 44,563 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted October 29, 2017 - 02:28 PM

Those can be a bear to remove! Been a couple years since I had to do one. Think they are welded cylinders.

 

:wave: Welcome to the forum!


Edited by KennyP, October 30, 2017 - 04:55 AM.

  • Cvans, pryan05 and plowmaster54 have said thanks

#3 pryan05 ONLINE  

pryan05

    LGT

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 84973
  • 573 Thanks
  • 322 posts
  • Location: Sudbury, Ontario

Posted October 29, 2017 - 05:50 PM

I believe the upper lift arm needs to be removed in order to gain clearance to shift the cylinder over enough to be removed.  And as Kenny said they could be a bit stubborn to remove.  Heat may work for you as long as you don't heat it up enough to cook all the seals in the cylinder.  As per the service manual, those cylinders as rebuild-able .  Let us know how it turns out and share any solutions or problems.  Thanks and welcome to gtTalk!  Also the service manual is available in the manual section of this site>   


  • Cvans and plowmaster54 have said thanks

#4 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

FixItCharlie
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 47950
  • 481 Thanks
  • 321 posts
  • Location: Aurora,IL

Posted October 29, 2017 - 08:58 PM

Checking the Parts Layout there is also a cotter pin & set screw that locks it to the shaft. The cotter pin can be difficult to see & remove so check on that. In the Parts Manual it is shown on page 80.

 

Charlie


  • Cvans and plowmaster54 have said thanks

#5 KC9KAS ONLINE  

KC9KAS
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10038
  • 5,241 Thanks
  • 4,622 posts
  • Location: Holland, IN

Posted October 30, 2017 - 04:14 AM

:welcometogttalk: 


  • plowmaster54 said thank you

#6 plowmaster54 OFFLINE  

plowmaster54
  • Member
  • Member No: 86677
  • 6 Thanks
  • 6 posts
  • Location: Texas

Posted October 30, 2017 - 01:54 PM

First, let me say thank you to everyone for the welcome as well as the ideas and suggestions! Please excuse my posts, I'm one of those 2 fingered hunt-n-peck typist.

I have removed the cotter pin and set screw,as well as sprayed PB Blaster around the shaft and in the set screw hole over the last few days. I have tried to move it by using different pry bars,pushing against the frame tube,but no luck so far. Today I removed the hydraulic lines and de-greased the lift arm in anticipation of using heat on it.

I have come to the conclusion that the best tools for working on these old tractors are persistence and patience!

A friend gave me the tractor after I found out he was going to scrap it. It wasnt running when I got it,and so far I've replaced the ignition switch, solenoid and regulator. I put a kit in the carb and cleaned, repaired and lined the gas tank. It now starts,runs and the electrical system is charging. Once I get the hydraulics repaired, I have a friend who is a retired aircraft painter who is going to put the color on her. 

I plan on using her to pull a box scraper to maintain a driveway, as well as for plowing up food plots on some land I own. I'm already thinking on modifying a rototiller to serve as a pull-behind and would love to fab up a front end loader.

********* I dont know if my patience is going to be up to the task :D *******


  • KennyP said thank you

#7 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 35,791 Thanks
  • 44,563 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted October 30, 2017 - 03:33 PM

Hang in there! We've all been there too!


  • plowmaster54 said thank you

#8 plowmaster54 OFFLINE  

plowmaster54
  • Member
  • Member No: 86677
  • 6 Thanks
  • 6 posts
  • Location: Texas

Posted November 01, 2017 - 04:08 PM

SUCCESS!!!!!  Got the lift cylinder off today,but not the way I expected to. After several attempts by heating,spraying PB Blaster and prying (with no luck), I got out the die grinder and got to work on the top pin. I was able to grind off the weld on the back side of the lift arm and with a long punch drove the pin out.

I will make a pin out of a 1/2 in. bolt when I go to replace the cylinder. Now I need to get the cylinder repaired or replaced. I have rebuilt cylinders before, but this one appears to be welded together, can find no clip or other retainer. There are a couple of places in town that repair cylinders so I check with them. I also am going to replace the hoses when it goes back together. The next project looks like replacing the axle seals, both are leaking. Hoping that goes smoother than this last job!


  • KennyP and pryan05 have said thanks

#9 pryan05 ONLINE  

pryan05

    LGT

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 84973
  • 573 Thanks
  • 322 posts
  • Location: Sudbury, Ontario

Posted November 01, 2017 - 05:22 PM

axle seal number  CR11372.  

 

Would you be able to post a picture of the rod end of the cylinder?  There is a rebuild kit in the parts list,  just wondering what your cylinder looks like?  The rod end should be threaded.


  • plowmaster54 said thank you

#10 plowmaster54 OFFLINE  

plowmaster54
  • Member
  • Member No: 86677
  • 6 Thanks
  • 6 posts
  • Location: Texas

Posted November 02, 2017 - 11:20 AM

cylinder.jpg cylinder2.jpg cylinder3.jpg

axle seal number  CR11372.  

 

Would you be able to post a picture of the rod end of the cylinder?  There is a rebuild kit in the parts list,  just wondering what your cylinder looks like?  The rod end should be threaded.

Thanks for the post. I have pictures and will try to post them.


  • KennyP and pryan05 have said thanks

#11 pryan05 ONLINE  

pryan05

    LGT

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 84973
  • 573 Thanks
  • 322 posts
  • Location: Sudbury, Ontario

Posted November 02, 2017 - 05:26 PM

You're right it's welded. Both my tractors have threaded cylinder... weired!
  • KennyP and plowmaster54 have said thanks

#12 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 35,791 Thanks
  • 44,563 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 02, 2017 - 05:51 PM

You're right it's welded. Both my tractors have threaded cylinder... weired!

Yep! Some are welded. Different suppliers, I guess.


  • pryan05 and plowmaster54 have said thanks




Top