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White GT-1855, introduction and new project


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#16 Bigmatt OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2017 - 05:47 PM

Mark,
I thought about exhaust ending up in the cab. Right now the exhaust is close to the footboards which are not sealed and can allow exhaust in. The cooling fan should provide a positive flow of clean warm air from the grill area. If anything removing the rear shroud should help keep exhaust out of the cab.

I got some seat time today. Nothing major, just hauling around a trailer full of fencing, but I did find something I wasn't expecting. Do these tractors have a limited slip diff? While backing up a steep slippery hill I ran out of traction and had to turn around and drive up forwards. When I looked at the skid marks I saw 2 identical strips, both wheels were spinning. A limited slip would be awesome.

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#17 VTXrider ONLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2017 - 06:13 PM

Great looking setup. Time for the chains and wheel weights. 



#18 Bigmatt OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2017 - 09:45 PM

I think I’m ready for winter. Weights and chains are on and the blower is all put together. I still have to fix the rear window but plastic and duct tape will work if it snows soon. I did run into a space issue. At 6’5 and 250 lbs it is tight in there for me. I won’t be able to add foot speed controls as my size 14 boots fill the foot wells and I can’t go more than half speed in reverse because the speed lever hits my knee. For now I’ll take a torch to the lever until I fit. Eventually I may widen the cab 4 inches so it matches the running board width.

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#19 Bigmatt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2017 - 09:16 PM

So I ran into big problems today. Took it out in the yard just to make sure everything worked properly. While checking the front driveshaft I found the gearbox shaft was sliding in and out instead of the driveshaft sip joint (pictures 1 and 2).
I pulled the box and found real carnage. The output shaft snout is broken off where the seal goes (pictures 3, 4 and 5). Between that chunk of aluminum and the input shaft retaining bolt stuck between the housing and the fan it made a hell of a racket. Based on appearances it looks like it has been broken for years. Right now the bushing looks good so I'll run it for the season and keep an eye on it.

I do have some questions:
Does anyone have a spare gearbox they would be willing to part with?
Is the gearbox supposed to be stabilized? Picture 6 is one I found that shows a stud running from the housing to the gearbox. All the holes are there but my blower does not have this stud. The gearbox tips fore and aft when I raise and lower the blower.
Is it better to mount the gearbox with the drive shaft on top or bottom? Does it matter? There are holes in the blower housing to mount it either orientation. My tractor had the driveshaft on the bottom. Picture 6 shows it with the driveshaft on the top. Mounting it with the driveshaft on top will put the driveshaft inline when the blower is down and working harder.

Thanks,

Bigmatt

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#20 VTXrider ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2017 - 09:50 AM

The manual for the 190-990 blower shows the gear box with the input shaft at the bottom. I would think it should be solidly mounted to the blower housing and not allowed to float. But the brackets look like it allows for the gearbox to rock with only one mounting bolt on each side. That may be for adjusting the alignment of the output shaft to be straight with the blower coupling. That may be what caused the case to break with it rocking back and forth, forcing the angle to change, putting stress on the nose of the output bearing. I think if you can align it and lock it in place, it should be ok and not cause more damage. That bearing should stay in place with use.

 

I would try high strength epoxy to glue that nose piece back on. Then make a dam around the nose and pour a thick reinforcement of epoxy around the nose area. Sand the surfaces with coarse sandpaper to help with bonding.

 

I have done this when a cast housing cracked that had angled gusset webs around a bearing. Filling in the web areas with epoxy stabilized it.

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Edited by VTXrider, December 04, 2017 - 10:17 AM.

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#21 Bigmatt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2017 - 09:43 PM

I think I found what caused the gearbox to break. One of the 2 pivot brackets was badly bent like the bolt backed out. That would allow the gearbox to hit the housing and shear off the broken section.

I talked to a mold maker friend of mine. He thinks he can bake the oil out of it and weld it up. Then I'll machine a new seal pocket and hopefully be good as new.

For now I'll reinforce the mounts, add a 3rd support and keep the gearbox full of grease.
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