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White GT-1855, introduction and new project


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#1 Bigmatt ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2017 - 09:49 AM

Good morning GTT,
I picked up a new project this spring to go with the new house. I've been mowing wih it this summer and am now getting it ready for winter. The new yard is smaller than at the old house and I'm glad I downsized from a Ford 8n. It came with a 50"deck, 45"snowblower, hard cab with actual doors and a windshield wiper, wheel weights, chains, and enough spare parts to keep it going for a long time.

Future upgrades will include:
Lights on the cab
Yellow flasher to let the speed demons on our road know I'm there
Electric defogger
Rear weight box
Rear scoop
Foot speed control

But right now I have an issue with mounting the snowblower. I read the manual and I think I have everything correct, but the snowblower will only lift 1/4". Based on the front u joint angle i assume it should be able to lift 4 or 5". I've attached some pictures and would appreciate any insight.

Thanks in advanced,

Bigmatt

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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2017 - 09:56 AM

Welcome to GTT. Very nice tractor and attachments. I'm not able to help you with your lift problem but, someone who can will be along. Most of the guys are out doing things during the day. Activity will pick up later. Check our Manuals Section, there may be a better explanation in there. Good Luck, Rick



#3 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2017 - 10:29 AM

​What is stopping it from lifting higher?  I think that would be the starting point.



#4 Bigmatt ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2017 - 02:28 PM

​What is stopping it from lifting higher? I think that would be the starting point.

Very good point. Nothing is binding, but as the lift mechanism moves in the snowblower lift arms not much lift happens. The slot in the snowblower lift arm is wider at the rear than at the front. It looks like it is supposed to be that way (not worn), but Ive never seen an original so its hard to say.

Just found a better picture of the lift cam. Item 5 in the link. It looks like it is supposed to be wider on one side than the other.

https://www.partstre...achment-part-1/

Edited by Bigmatt, October 28, 2017 - 02:38 PM.


#5 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2017 - 08:34 AM

This is what that part looks like,
image.jpeg

Joe

#6 Bigmatt ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2017 - 01:32 PM

This is what that part looks like,
attachicon.gifimage.jpeg
Joe

Thanks Joe,
That is what mine look like. I disassembled everything and found just enough wear on the mating surfaces of everything to keep it from lifting high enough. Rather than rebuilding everything and still having a system that was a pain to hookup, I redesigned it with a single lift link. Now the blower will lift 2.5". This is with the rear support (attaches to the rear ball hole) bent. Once I straighten and reinforce that component and shorten the front driveshaft I can get to 4".

Today I finally got the cab mounted. It is a tight squeeze for me (6'5 and 250 lbs) but it will definately be more comfortable than my last 2 snow tractors. The first was a 1612 power king with a single stage blower off a MTD. This didn't have a low enough 1st gear for a blower so I had to ride the clutch and without a cab it was miserable anytime the wind changed. The second was an 8N that i put a 4 way hydraulic front mount plow on. This was a beast of a tractor but didn't have good gearing. 3rd was too slow to wing the snow very far so I ended up with huge piles which caught drifting snow and filled the drive back in.

All my lights are here and I hope to get everything wired this week.

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#7 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2017 - 05:08 PM

Welcome to the forum.

Nice setup. So the subframe for the blower was bent? Nice mod to lift and to ease removal.

Do you have rear wheel chains and weights?



#8 Bigmatt ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2017 - 09:17 PM

The bent subframe is (and was) costing me about an inch of lift. I'll get it straightened eventually but at least the lift is functional now. I plan to run chains, wheel weights, a weight box and very low tire pressures. My driveway is quite steep and I'll need all the traction I can get.

Most of the afternoon was spent cleaning out the garage so we could actually park cars in there. I did get some time to play with the new lights. Each end gets a flood light aimed close and a spotlight aimed further out. They are just cheap foglights. I used them on a motorcycle I built and they put out a lot of light for 18w each. The orange flasher is a cheapo unit too. They are controlled with a 5 switch box.

I think I figured out heat as well. There is a gap in the cab just above the rear of the hood. Im going to weld on a couple tabs so he hood stays open into the cab and cover the louvers in the hood with a magnetic grill cover. Hopefully this is enough to keep the windshield defrosted.

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#9 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2017 - 10:36 PM

I would love to have a cab like that on my 999 as in my avatar. Nice fix for the lift problem, I had to do a lot of head scratching to get the adapted Cub grader blade on my 999, with the same lift mechanism that you have, to get any ground clearance. About 5" lift was the best I could come up with. Nice tractor.



#10 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2017 - 07:11 AM

You have good alround skills to get everything working and ready. Nice job.

What is the device circled?

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#11 Bigmatt ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2017 - 06:44 PM

You have good alround skills to get everything working and ready. Nice job.
What is the device circled?


I think its a horn. I'll know once I put power to it. Unless its loud enough to wake the dead it will probably be removed.

I did run into one problem I didn't prepare for. The engine has a 10 amp alternator, but only 3 amps go to the battery. The other 7 are an ac lighting circuit which can't power my led lights. I think I can convert it to work with a trailtech regulator rectifier and get 10 amps dc and not boil off the battery. Unfortunately that means removing the flywheel to modify the stator.

As to my skills, I've always been mechanically inclined. My grandpa taught me to use a lathe at 10, the welding merit badge was the first one I earned after joining Boy Scouts, I have a degree in mechanical engineering and I am a manufacturing engineer at a plastics plant. This gives me access to a fully equipped toolroom. Add all that to a dad that always bought old equipment and modified it to suite his needs, and you end up with me. It's a dangerous combination.
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#12 Bigmatt ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 08:53 PM

Quick update. Its been a little busy with work and the scout troop, so I haven't made as much progress as I'd like. Today I got the weight box cast. It should be around 200 lbs. I had plenty of help. The wife handled the wheelbarrow and the pooches handled the supervisory and quality control roles.

The wiring is complete. The lights work great going forward but the mount position for the rear lights may have to move. They are too far forward and light can't shine down directly behind the tractor. The windshield wiper is dead and will have to be replaced at some point.

I built a new cutting edge for the blower. I turned the front lip up 1/2" to act as a gravel guard and hopefully keep the gravel in the driveway. Of course I measured something wrong and the cutting edge hit the snowblower auger. I spent a couple hours with the vice and a BFH bending it making it clear. There is only 1/8" of clearance so it may come off again for some more rework.

I fired up the blower today and it promptly threw a U-joint cap. I have a replacement driveshaft until I find a rebuild kit. I also noticed the impeller hitting the housing occassionally. Is there any adjustment of the impeller clearance?

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#13 Bigmatt ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 09:38 PM

One thing i forgot, I added an opening from the cab to under the hood to try and pick up some heat, but the rear engine shroud directs all the hot air down to the ground. Is there any issue removing the rear engine shroud? I'll put it back on in summer to deflect heat and dust down, but for winter I think it has to go to get any heat.

#14 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2017 - 12:34 PM

I can't think of a reason the shroud cannot be removed for the winter.



#15 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2017 - 01:12 PM

One thing i forgot, I added an opening from the cab to under the hood to try and pick up some heat, but the rear engine shroud directs all the hot air down to the ground. Is there any issue removing the rear engine shroud? I'll put it back on in summer to deflect heat and dust down, but for winter I think it has to go to get any heat.

I like your tractor and would love to have a your cab!

I think that would work but I would be cautious about any CO brought into the cab from the engine.  Maybe install a CO detector in the cab just to be on the safe side?  Just a suggestion. 






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