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Oil Burner for a Shop Heater


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#16 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2017 - 06:04 PM

Thanks for all the comments! This will not be the 'full time' heater, more of a backup to the wood burner if needed!


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#17 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2017 - 08:47 PM

This will not be the 'full time' heater, more of a backup to the wood burner if needed!

 

 

 

 

It's funny but mine started out as a wood stove I built back in the middle seventies and is now doing duty as an oil burner. Actually the metal came from the old water tower in Bryant SD. 


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#18 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2017 - 09:02 PM

Continue with lots of pics as you build this Kenny. I don't understand the concept of it yet and my curiosity is working well.
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#19 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2017 - 05:36 AM

Shorty , the type Kenny is building kind of just drips oil onto that steel/cast plate , nothing like what you would see in your house . I think once that plate is very hot the oil just vaporizes when it hits it .  I think I've seen some that sort of preheat the oil to so you can get a more consent flow , easier to regulate I suppose . I've been following this because I know we'll get an honest idea of how it turns out from  Kenny   


Edited by Alc, October 26, 2017 - 05:41 AM.

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#20 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2017 - 05:39 AM

Continue with lots of pics as you build this Kenny. I don't understand the concept of it yet and my curiosity is working well.

Look for the link in the first post. That may give you a better idea of what's going on.


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#21 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2017 - 08:44 PM

   Here is some photos of the simple burner I'm using. As can be seen there is not much smoke during the burn. The tube coming into the burner pot is blowing air on the fire. The air needs to swirl around the inside of the pot. It is now a 25 cfm fan and needs to be bigger as does the pot. In one photo can be seen the drip pipe that preheats the oil. The heat exchanger fan is 225 cfm and moves a lot of air out the 3 front discharge tubes. This air can be so hot that you cannot hold your hand closer that 2' away. I am now putting together a control to shut down the oil flow if the stove gets too hot. 

   This evening construction of a larger oil reservoir was started using a 100lb propane tank. Want it farther away from the stove as the one mounted to the stove gets so hot the oil boils and it only holds 5 gallons. 

    

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#22 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2017 - 03:23 PM

Reading Daniels thread about oil heaters brought me back to this. I did add some short legs to it today so I can 'plumb' it when I get done. Think I am going to shorten the tank, as it is the 'fuel tank' would be next to the ceiling! Noodling it as I go, so much does not get accomplished. Just hoping it puts off some heat when I get it ready to fire it off.


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#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2017 - 03:35 PM

   Here is some photos of the simple burner I'm using. As can be seen there is not much smoke during the burn. The tube coming into the burner pot is blowing air on the fire. The air needs to swirl around the inside of the pot. It is now a 25 cfm fan and needs to be bigger as does the pot. In one photo can be seen the drip pipe that preheats the oil. The heat exchanger fan is 225 cfm and moves a lot of air out the 3 front discharge tubes. This air can be so hot that you cannot hold your hand closer that 2' away. I am now putting together a control to shut down the oil flow if the stove gets too hot. 

   This evening construction of a larger oil reservoir was started using a 100lb propane tank. Want it farther away from the stove as the one mounted to the stove gets so hot the oil boils and it only holds 5 gallons. 

Chris, that's a nice home built oil burner!  


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#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2017 - 03:37 PM

Chris, that's a nice home built oil burner!  

I thought so too. I'm going to use his tank design for mine!


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#25 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2017 - 06:06 PM

I'll try and take photos tomorrow of the new controls and oil tank. The controls seem to be working and I can now feel comfortable leaving without it getting too hot.


Edited by Cvans, December 17, 2017 - 10:09 PM.

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#26 MFDAC ONLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2017 - 08:21 PM

Wish I could go to something like that as my old house furnace (80,000 btu) that has been heating my shop for 25 years bit the dust today. I'm probably going to go ahead and find a hanging one of similar btu. It would clear up a small amount of floor space which I need badly.

 

Those are some great ideas though for oil burners! Still gonna lurk and learn!

 

DAC


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#27 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2017 - 09:23 PM

Put together some photos of the controls for the oil burner. Most all of the parts came from Amazon or eBay. 

I was concerned about controlling two things that past experience showed need attention. #1 was regulating the stove temperature by controlling the oil flow. And #2 was stopping the oil flow if the fire would go out. Didn't need a waste oil swimming pool. 

 

 

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  In the above photo is the valve setup. The first manual valve to the right is a shut off and isolation valve so the controls can be worked on without draining the tank. Then there is a T and an auto close powered valve which is controlled by the digital controller. There is a probe on the back of the stove that monitors the air temp behind the stove and this tells the controller when to start and stop the oil flow in turn regulating the stove temperature. Next is a needle valve to set the oil flow to the burn pot. Then there is another T. These two tee's are connected by a 1/4" line with a needle valve in the middle. When the controller closes the main valve and the oil flow shuts down and the fire would go out in a short time. This small needle valve lets just enough oil continue to drip in the burner to maintain a small flame but not enough to create much heat. When the main valve opens the oil flows to the burner and the stove starts heating up again. 

  Next is another self closing powered valve which will close if the stove cools down and prevent the stove and shop floor from getting soaked in wast oil should the fire go out. This valve is controlled by a simple snap switch on the back of the stove. 

 

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Here you can see the snap switch and probe that controls the two motorized valves. 

 

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   These are the controls. They are simple and inexpensive. 

   The top is a bathroom fan timer to bypass the snap switch (which is wired in parallel to the timer) so the stove can get oil until the snap switch is warmed up during a cold start. After the timer shuts off the warm snap switch will keep the valve open. The snap switch is set to close at 85 degs. if I remember correctly.

    Next down the line are 4 outlets that are controlled by the light switch. Turn the switch off and the blowers shut off and the valves close. Also in the event of a power outage the valves will close.

    Then there is the 110 volt digital controller for the first valve. Both of those valves are low voltage ( 9 to 24 VDC) valves. They will also operate on the same voltage AC. That's a 2 amp 12 volt DC transformer plugged into the controller. 

 

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This is the bulk oil tank fabricated from an old 100 lb propane cylinder. I wanted as much head as possible to help the oil flow when it is cold. I always fill these cylinders to the top with water before I start working on them. 

 

If I've missed anything or you have questions feel free to ask. 


Edited by Cvans, December 18, 2017 - 10:11 PM.

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#28 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2017 - 10:00 PM

Put together some photos of the controls for the oil burner. Most all of the parts came from Amazon or eBay. 

I was concerned about controlling two things that past experience showed need attention. #1 was regulating the stove temperature by controlling the oil flow. And #2 was stopping the oil flow if the fire would go out. Didn't need a waste oil swimming pool. 

Very nice work Chris!  


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#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2017 - 06:39 AM

Wow! Took some thought for all that!


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#30 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2017 - 09:12 AM

Definitely going to shorten it! This tank is nearly as tall as I am. I will keep Chris's fuel system in mind, but that may get added in later. I want it to be a simple setup for a while until I see how it does.

The tank is only 14" in diameter, so I am noodling the exhaust. I want to use a 6" pipe out of it, but no room to get it out the top with a 3" pipe down the center for air and fuel. I have a section of iron pipe that is 4" or maybe 5", I'll ind out today. May be able to use two pieces of that into a box to take the 6" out of.


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