Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

standard Walsh restoration

garden tractor

  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Bob White12 OFFLINE  

Bob White12
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 88445
  • 72 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Kansas SW

Posted October 03, 2017 - 10:32 PM

            Ok so I have been trying to find some time to make this but every time I do have time I forget so now that I remember i may as well start this thread. as the title suggest I am in the process of restoring an old 1939 standard Walsh garden tractor (serial No.309D665). i got this piece from a museum who was running out of space and needed room so they gave it to me. The very rare shroud that thankfully didn't have any holes it was in great shape almost everything was froze solid when we first got it not almost everything is free the clutch was froze the battery box sadly had no bottom so we had to just rip it off. but I think that the piston was the most stuck it took about a half a year until I got that sucker out. although a couple parts are missing fuel bowl and crank I think we could compensate for those pretty easy. I made quite a few mistakes though most notably I left the carb on the front porch witch was an awful idea from the beginning but when we got a new puppy well she ummm didn't like that carb too well. lets just say it will need a new cork float witch I have no idea how to remove the rest of the chewed up thing. At first I though finding a new glass bowl fuel filter was going to be impossible but the more I looked at the treads the more I wondered. I finally removed a glass bowl off an old Briggs and Staten and put it on the tread on the gas tank it was a perfect fit i even tried it out and it worked with no leaking. so with that out of the way I noticed that the axle cover leaked a little so i took the cover off and sure enough the gasket was shot. so I think my best option now would try to get the wheel free and off and maybe even do some crank case cleaning. but the worst issue is probably be the exhaust valve witch is stuck in there solid and looks pretty pitted and rusted. so I think I might have to get a new valve and maybe even a new seat. sorry but I have only one picturelike I said i just wanted to get this tread going and see what people think. if you got any pics or advise please sent them I am open to any substitutions if you have any.  :thumbs:  IMG_0780.PNG


  • Gtractor and LilysDad have said thanks

#2 Alc OFFLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 6,561 Thanks
  • 7,304 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted October 04, 2017 - 05:32 AM

That ID tag looks brand new !   The exhaust valve was stuck open on my Walsh too but freed up once I had some PB Blaster in there and tapped it down a little then pried it up , a few times . Please post some picture of the whole machine


  • Bob White12 said thank you

#3 Bob White12 OFFLINE  

Bob White12
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 88445
  • 72 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Kansas SW

Posted October 04, 2017 - 09:12 AM

That ID tag looks brand new !   The exhaust valve was stuck open on my Walsh too but freed up once I had some PB Blaster in there and tapped it down a little then pried it up , a few times . Please post some picture of the whole machine

I know i'm amazed on how well that tag cleaned up!! yeah I tried tapping on that valve with a piece of wood but I was afraid that I would smash it. ill post more pics when I get home i'm on my lunch break now 



#4 DougT OFFLINE  

DougT

    Dog Approved

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 584
  • 6,719 Thanks
  • 4,882 posts
  • Location: north central Ohio

Posted October 04, 2017 - 10:48 AM

Were you able to get the intake valve out of the top of the jug above the exhaust valve? If you can get some pics of the valve from top and bottom and pics of the carb damage, maybe we can come up with some ideas.


  • Bob White12 said thank you

#5 Bob White12 OFFLINE  

Bob White12
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 88445
  • 72 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Kansas SW

Posted October 04, 2017 - 11:19 AM

Were you able to get the intake valve out of the top of the jug above the exhaust valve? If you can get some pics of the valve from top and bottom and pics of the carb damage, maybe we can come up with some ideas.

yes I was able to actually  it came out very easily a little to easy actually. I hope it has compression the bore looks pretty good cleaned up pretty nicely. I think this tractor is pretty low hour the cleats are barley warn. 



#6 Bob White12 OFFLINE  

Bob White12
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 88445
  • 72 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Kansas SW

Posted October 04, 2017 - 10:18 PM

Ok I had a little time today I took these pictures sorry there not the best of quality 

    

here is the exhaust valve it had been soaking in some chemicals for weeks

 

 now the head/sleeve had been sitting outside under a tarp with those chemicals. now some how water got into there and now it looks like this. before the bore looked beautiful but now it will need a good hone.

IMG_0800.JPG

IMG_0788.JPG

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_0785.JPG
  • IMG_0796.JPG
  • IMG_0792.JPG
  • IMG_0784.JPG

Edited by Bob White12, October 04, 2017 - 10:27 PM.

  • Alc said thank you

#7 Bob White12 OFFLINE  

Bob White12
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 88445
  • 72 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Kansas SW

Posted October 04, 2017 - 10:29 PM

IMG_0787.JPG    

as you can see the valve looks pretty rough 


Edited by Bob White12, October 04, 2017 - 10:30 PM.


#8 DougT OFFLINE  

DougT

    Dog Approved

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 584
  • 6,719 Thanks
  • 4,882 posts
  • Location: north central Ohio

Posted October 05, 2017 - 09:12 AM

Hard to tell about the valve. some ways it looks more like carbon than rust. Keep soaking and tapping and see if you can't get it loose. Light taps with a small hammer should be alright. Just be careful not to mushroom the end. If you need to tap it back down, use a punch in the dead center of the valve. Just don't get carried away. Like you are finding out, storing the parts outside isn't a good idea. There is a big nut in the bottom of the crankcase. That is the oil pump. You will need to take it out and clean it before you run it. there are loose parts in it so take it out with the tractor on its wheels and keep the pump upright so the stuff doesn't fall out. 


  • Bob White12 said thank you

#9 Bob White12 OFFLINE  

Bob White12
  • Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 88445
  • 72 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Kansas SW

Posted October 07, 2017 - 01:24 AM

Hard to tell about the valve. some ways it looks more like carbon than rust. Keep soaking and tapping and see if you can't get it loose. Light taps with a small hammer should be alright. Just be careful not to mushroom the end. If you need to tap it back down, use a punch in the dead center of the valve. Just don't get carried away. Like you are finding out, storing the parts outside isn't a good idea. There is a big nut in the bottom of the crankcase. That is the oil pump. You will need to take it pout and clean it before you run it. there are loose parts in it so take it out with the tractor on its wheels and keep the pump upright so the stuff doesn't fall out. 

yeah I've been doing that but I'm starting to mushrooming it. yeah I've already taken that pump out redone it. what i'm wondering is how to adjust/take off those wheels. I read a standard monarch Manuel and read it but it didn't really make sense to me on how to adjust them. i think most of them were shipped with the wheels off.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: garden tractor

Top