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New to me PowerKing 1620


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#1 pianoman8t8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2017 - 10:36 AM

Just picked this puppy up!  Model 1620, unsure of year.  See photos for more details...

 

Power steering, power lift/lower and left-right on 2 stage Berco blower, 60" belly mower, 3pt hitch, hydro drive, power steering, front and rear PTO, 540hrs, dual rear brakes, comfy seat!

 

Came with big garden tractor trailer, and manual.  Didn't get much of a "Deal" on it (I'll admit, $3500), but I needed something before winter here in Maine.  Last year it took me about 4-5hrs to clear a foot of snow with a 26-28" walk behind 2 stage blower.  Our driveway is about 500ft long with a big clearing at the top. So this ought to reduce that time significantly!  I plan to add a weight box off the drawbar to help with traction, the driveway isn't too steep, but it is a steady incline to the top.  Hood is a little rough, but mostly there... rest in great shape.

 

Hopefully photos load...

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#2 sharkman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2017 - 02:00 PM

those are super sweet tractors.  Looks like you got it loaded with the , extra hydraulics, rear PTO and front uni-tatch hitch.   I think that is a lot of tractor for the money, it's more that a garden tractor, more like a Sub-compact.



#3 pianoman8t8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2017 - 03:35 PM

Thanks Sharkman.  It should get a good workout during the winter! Not sure if I'll do much mowing with it yet, we'll see.  My lawn isn't the smoothest, and that extra width may end up doing some scalping.  Will have to see how it goes... I currently mow with a 38" wide deck on a model 73 Cud Cadet.

 

I wonder how well this 1620 would do with a grader blade on the 3pt hitch?  our driveway meets up with a fairly steep and short dirt road, 1 lane wide, and easily gets pretty rough after some rain.


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#4 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2017 - 06:11 PM

Hi pianoman8t8, nice looking Power King, I've been looking for one like that for over a year none around me most are 300 to 500 miles away, it should really move snow and yes I've heard the 60" decks like to scalp some. Per your SN is a 1994 model yr.


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#5 pianoman8t8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2017 - 05:23 AM

MNGB, thanks for the year info.  I wasn't sure, as the last few years available on the S/N charts I've seen the numbers don't make much sense in terms of "order". 



#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2017 - 07:05 AM

Very nice!  That's the year they still had the one-piece hoods and they are more durable than the later 3 pc ones. Looks like deck hasn't been on in awhile. Maybe if you have other mower, you won't need it either. Rear blades not as nice as some sort of box scraper or other new types, hard to keep blade even and end up rolling up/down with the tractor, least for me.


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#7 pianoman8t8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2017 - 07:23 AM

Glgrumpy, yeah I had recently seen the box-scraper type, but I'm not really experienced with dirtwork in general, so I don't know the advantages.



#8 pianoman8t8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2017 - 10:25 AM

I've noticed that on 3pt hitches on other tractors (and PK's) that the chains run cross-ways, whereas the chains on mine run straight front to back.   What are your thoughts on this?  Hmm.. Just occurred to me, maybe it's this way because of the rear PTO shaft...



#9 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2017 - 11:54 AM

Yep I think your right about the PTO and the chains, they are to limit the sway in the hitch and if the chains do that the way they are now its good to go if not then if you need to stabilize the hitch then cross them for the job.


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#10 pianoman8t8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2017 - 06:09 AM

Added some weight to the back! About 400lbs total.  It won't lift it if below half height on the hitch, but once helped up it'll lift the rest of the way up.  When it's down, the cable pull doesn't have much mechanical advantage on the hitch lift.  Anyway...  Not the purdiest of ballast systems, but it was all free. (scrap bin at work). I wanted weights on the back that would be easily removable, but also still allow me to use the hitch if still left in place.  The rods vary in length from about 24" to 30", but the rings are welded on about 16" from one end, so they are all roughly at the same plane at the bottom.

 

DISCLAIMER: I know my welds are crappy.  Mostly will go unseen, and they're holding the weight (and then some) just fine. Boat shaft and black iron pipe rings welded on, slipped onto a foot long 7/8" steel core rod (leftover from drilling).

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#11 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2017 - 06:39 AM

That ought to hold the tires on the ground! Now, if you'll replace the helium in the back tires with air, you'll be set.



#12 pianoman8t8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2017 - 06:50 AM

LOL! Yeah, air would help.  I'm not sure yet if the tires are loaded or not.  Guess I'll find out when I take them off to put some small spacers on!  The chains on it rub a little bit on the frame on the inside of the wheel well, so I plan to add about a 1/4" spacer between the rim and wheel flange.


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#13 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2017 - 08:39 PM

That's one odd weight rig there!  Don't like a simple square box with pins or bar under it for the 3pt arms? Looks like you should be playing musical notes with that look!  Hard to believe that much rod was scrap!  Can't flip wheels for wider run to clear chains?  Seems like mine is too deep dished to flip, but was thinking this year should still flip, maybe not. Don't get too big of spacer, will be breaking off at the studs working it.


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#14 pianoman8t8 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2017 - 06:57 AM

glgrumpy, if I flip the wheels, it won't fit in my trailer.  My trailer is about 4'4" wide, so it currently fits in with a couple inches on each side to spare.  I'm only adding enough spacer so the chains don't rub, so nothing major.  I thought about going with the square box, but it's takes up more room.  Didn't want to add something that would require removing the reese hitch either.  Plus it was all free, and required minimal fab-work. In this manner, it's also adjustable.  Just remove weights and add them back as needed.  With this amount of weight, it won't pick it up on its own though from the ground. I have to help it up about halfway, then it can handle it from there. Less mechanical advantage down low due to how the cable pull attaches to the hitch for lifting.  I'll probably take a couple rods off to be a but easier to lift.  I don't think that ~40lbs will make much of a difference overall.

 

We have a lot of scrap at work.  I've taken home a couple pcs that were about 5.25" diameter solid, about 30" long, of 4340 forged steel that was turned.  It was pretty heavy!  Most of the scrap I've taken home I haven't used yet... except for these boat shafts.  And it's been at least 2 yrs... They've moved twice... Lots of chunks that are about 7" diameter and 6-8" long as well.  Someday I may have a use, but currently they're helping to hold down the garage floor.  Although, all the metalworking machinery in there does a good job of that as well! Roughly 30,000lbs of machinery, not including any other tools (like air compressor, etc.).  I can post as couple pics if anyone is interested in seeing it :P


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#15 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2017 - 09:12 AM

Cable on lift?  This electric then?  Don't have the hydraulics on this tractor? That mean is gravity for the down movement?  My hydraulics will lift tractor to change a wheel if I block up the hitch arms to push on.  My small 1217 tractor has the electric winch, but still is solid, not cable and has SOME down pressure.






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