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#61 BolensChrisUK OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2018 - 04:36 PM

Just brought a set of the tri ribs for my 600 from them & they came with tubes :thumbs:


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#62 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2018 - 04:59 PM

Just caught up with this thread! You're doing a great job, keep it up. 

 

John


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#63 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2018 - 03:54 AM

Thank you chaps for your thoughts and links to the tyres, I think I am going to go with the ribbed type front tyres.

 

Also thank you to everyone for their kind encouragement.

 

With the cold and high humidity that we have had lately, painting has had to wait so in between work and things I have just been cleaning and inspecting parts and in amongst some other parts I have come across this part (shown in the photo attached) and I can’t seem to find where it would go.

 

I have looked in the parts manual and I can’t see it there so is this part from another tractor?

 

I know it is a silly question but would someone please help me identify this part and its use.

 

Thank you

 

John

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • What is this part.jpg

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#64 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2018 - 09:10 AM

 

 

I have looked in the parts manual and I can’t see it there so is this part from another tractor?

 

I know it is a silly question but would someone please help me identify this part and its use.

 

Thank you

 

John

Isle of Man

 

I would say it is part of the lift linkage for a rotary mower as shown in the picture - not sure what model as the arms that hook to the deck appear slightly different to the one in the parts break down.  The Bolens Bug strikes again perhaps as you try and locate the rest of the mower and other attachments?? 
 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Rotary Mower Page.png

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#65 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2018 - 10:29 AM

Sometimes you can narrow the search by looking for the color paint on the piece, it does look like a mower linkage. maybe Bolens 1000 can chime in. Does that have yellow paint on it. most common colors are green, red, and black if it is a tube frame tractor, gold was very early 1960's. The green was early to late 1960's, the red was early 1970's, and the black was mid to late 1970's. Sometimes people would repaint the attachments to a different color.

 

Good luck with your quest and Cheers


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#66 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2018 - 03:23 PM

Thank you chaps for your input, it certainly has cleared up that problem

 

I happen to have a mower like that so it is no doubt form that although I don’t know what model it is.

 

When I get a chance I will take some photos of my attachments for everyone to see.

 

Thank you again

 

John

Isle of Man


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#67 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2018 - 05:07 PM

With a relatively warm (10 'c) few days I have put all my energy (time allowing and working late into the night) to get as much done before the cold returns and so my posts have been lacking and I hope this hasn't inconvenienced anyone? Never the less more updates to come.

 

I spent a lot of time on the clutch, having finally got it apart, and it cleaned up very well indeed but I cant help wondering if it is a new clutch since there isnt any rust on it at all, just loads of very think blue pain and not a trace of the gold?

There doesn't seem to be any wear on any of the surfaces, very confusing indeed, it seems like a brand new clutch

 

The bearings also seem to be in good condition so with a clean these maybe still usable but I will ponder that some more.

 

In some of the photos it can be seen that there is still a fiction disc remaining (on the clutch flange side) and I cant be sure if this is correct?

I have measured the thickness and it measures 4 mm thick which doesn't seem very thick at all. So, once again a dilemma, do I keep it or replace it?

 

Thoughts and comments are welcome as to the dilemma.

 

 

John 

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • Clutch 001.jpg
  • Clutch 002.jpg
  • Clutch bearings.jpg
  • Clutch 01.jpg
  • Clutch 03.jpg
  • Clutch 04.jpg
  • Clutch 05.jpg
  • Clutch 06.jpg
  • Clutch 07.jpg
  • Clutch 02.jpg

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#68 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2018 - 05:28 PM

updates continuing.

 

Having got as far with the clutch as I could I turned my attention to the clutch housing (as I call it) and got all of the parts that attach to it cleaned and painted although some of the paint turned a bit blotchy because of the previous cold weather.

 

The blotchy paint will be taken care of since the housing is only loosely assembled so that I am able to assess what parts are missing and replace accordingly. Fortunately I have only had to replace a few nuts, bolts and washers and even these were painted. All the bushings seem fine and once the clutch is completed mounted and everything is tightened up, will I really know if things are as good as they appear.

 

Either way, the inspector (seen walking away in the background) approved thus far so I am pleased with the progress made in the last few days.

 

Although, perhaps the more knowledgeable of you may be able to guide me a little as to the proper placement of the flat washers 141 marked with a red arrow

 

Once everything is tightened up and I am happy with it all, then I will give the whole assembly a final coat of paint, covering any scratches that I may have caused.

One this is done, the clutch housing will be put aside waiting assembly to the frame and mounting of the steering column, hopefully it wont be too long before I have a rolling chassis?

 

 

John

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • Clutch Housing 01.jpg
  • Clutch Housing 02.jpg
  • Clutch Housing 03.jpg
  • Clutch Housing 04.jpg
  • Clutch Housing 06.jpg
  • Clutch Housing 07.jpg
  • Clutch Housing 08.jpg
  • Clutch Housing 05.jpg
  • Flat washers 141.jpg

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#69 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2018 - 05:49 PM

Last update for tonight.

 

Made a start on the power (PTO) control shaft and I have managed to get it all apart althought I forgot to take more photos (it was getting late)

 

Never the less there appears to be a rather large gouge in the shaft (marked with a red arrow) which will be welded and then filed smooth.

 

It also seems that there maybe a bushing missing but I will have to check the other parts to make sure that it is not stuck in the steering support.

 

The bearings within the puleys, again, seem in good condition which is amazing and if this is the case then it really does seem that it wont be longe before I ahve a rollign chassis.

 

John

Isle of Man

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Power control 02.jpg
  • Power control 03.jpg
  • Power control 04.jpg
  • Power control 01.jpg

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#70 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2018 - 05:58 PM

In some of the photos it can be seen that there is still a fiction disc remaining (on the clutch flange side) and I cant be sure if this is correct?

I have measured the thickness and it measures 4 mm thick which doesn't seem very thick at all. So, once again a dilemma, do I keep it or replace it?

 

Thoughts and comments are welcome as to the dilemma.

 

 

John 

Isle of Man

If you check out the first post of this thread it has pictures of the original pulley and a new one the gentleman got sitting beside it and  the new one appears to have friction material on both sides of it - pictures 4 and 8. 

http://gardentractor...-clutch-system/

 

The parts list also shows two friction discs - items 101 (rear) and 104 (front) that I believe were bonded onto the pulley faces originally.  I have also attached a picture from the Service Manual of the three speed clutch that show the friction discs on both sides of the pulley face.  I do not know the exact thickness they would have been originally but I would say the one you still have is worn a bit and the other one has disintegrated over time - I will guess that the original discs were 3/16" thick which would equate to about 5 mm thick if I am reading my tape measure correctly. Hope this helps and does not add to the confusion.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Three Speed Clutch Assembly.jpg

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#71 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2018 - 08:44 PM

Either way, the inspector (seen walking away in the background) approved thus far so I am pleased with the progress made in the last few days.

 

Although, perhaps the more knowledgeable of you may be able to guide me a little as to the proper placement of the flat washers 141 marked with a red arrow

 

 

 

John

Isle of Man

 

Inspectors may walk away looking like they approve but it may be because they are being polite and afraid they might hurt your feelings if they told you what they really thought :rolling:
 

Attached are pictures from the service manual of where they show the placement of the flat washers in a drawing - looks like you may have to add a couple between the steering gear and arm so that it tightens up squarely on the cross shaft - you may have to use your own judgement there.  I have also attached a picture of the parts break down for the 900 as it appears to be similar and is a better quality picture.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Spacer Washers.jpg
  • 900 Parts Picture.jpg

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#72 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2018 - 05:03 PM

Stew

 

You are outstanding and I in awe of your knowledge and your ability to find the answer so fast, you have been instrumental in this restoration, thank you so much indeed.

 

With Chev's help I have located some washers and these are in the correct position which makes the whole steering and brake action more tight and firm. Hopefully this will helps others in the future?

 

I checked the bushing that fit into the steering column (#1185586) and I do have one missing so to the parts suppler guys, are these parts readily available and what do these normally cost?

 

John

Isle of Man


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#73 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2018 - 12:12 PM

John, you are doing a fantastic job on rejuvenating your 800. Top Job!
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#74 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2018 - 02:11 PM

Thank you Andrew for your encouragement, it means a lot.

 

Work continued on the PTO control shaft but I didn't take any photos apart from the end result.

 

I did repair the gouge in the shaft and a few other small problems by welding and then filing down the weld.

 

The only other thing to do is to turn a new bushing made form a very worn bronze propeller shaft using my newly acquired Unimat 3 lathe.

 

John

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • PTO control rebuilt 01.jpg
  • PTO control rebuilt 02.jpg
  • Lathe.jpg

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#75 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2018 - 02:28 PM

Having completed the PTO shaft, I turned my attention to the gearbox as the drive collar was sill in place but had been soaking with daily applications of WD40 and similar penetrating fluids.

 

This did the trick and with the threat of a copper mallet and an even bigger drift, the collar seemed to jump off without much of a tap? Surprising considering the resistance it gave last time.

 

As can bee seen in the photo, a repair is required to the collar and the picture shows the steel I plan to use.

 

I used a different piece of steel that was a little wider than the piece I first planed to use. Having scribed out the sizes I drilled (using my restored Mancuna B2 hand drill) the first hole with the biggest drill bit I have, 15mm and then preceded to hand file the rest using the pin as a guide until I has happy that the correct roundness was achieved.

 

I then measured where to cut the steel such that it would match up with the break on the drive collar and allow the pin to fit.

I cut long allowing me to chance to file down until I was happy with the fit, which can be seen was not a square fit. I had to adjust each side of the hole to get a good and level fit.

 

Once the fit was where I wanted it, I beveled the edges so that when it is welded, the weld will fill in the join rather than just on the surface.

 

Hopefully, when it is welded tomorrow, it should appear to be one piece?

 

John

 

Isle of man

 

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • drive collar.jpg
  • Drive Collar repair 01.jpg
  • Drive Collar repair 02.jpg
  • Drive Collar repair 03.jpg
  • Mancuna re-build 01.jpg

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