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#46 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2017 - 05:45 PM

Having had Christmas and Boxing day to myself, Wife was working nights so family kept away, I got on with what I could and since I now had the paint I prepared parts for painting starting with the front end.

 

AL parts were cleaned back to bare metal, washed with phosphoric acid, rinsed with water, dried and primed. A while later 3 coats of gold were sprayed on to each part and so far it looks fairly decent although I have got a few runs of paint.

 

I also cleaned, primed the inside of the tubes as I want to give as much protection as possible and that got painted as well.

 

With the inside of the tubes dry, I followed the same process as above and primed the outside of the tubes.

 

John

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • Primed 01.jpg
  • Primed 02.jpg
  • Primed 03.jpg
  • painted gold 02.jpg
  • painted gold.jpg
  • Wire tube 03.jpg
  • P1070080.JPG
  • tube prime 01.jpg
  • tube prime 02.jpg
  • tubes primed.jpg

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#47 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2017 - 06:09 PM

That does help immensely however it seems that the friction material had long since been destroyed and the plate have been running on each other, then when left have rusted together hence my question, how to get it apart? It is soaking away and with luck it may make it a little more easy to take apart but time will tell.

 

 

John

Isle of Man

 

After it has sat for a while and if you have acess to an air chisel with a blunt driver you could try gently hammering on the edge and face of the clutch plate - set a piece of flat steel in between the driver and the cluch edge and face so you do not mark or distort the clutch pieces  - BE GENTLE.  The intention is that the driver hits the flat steel and the vibration of the hammering gets transmitted to the clutch so that it may loosen things up from the vibrations.  Be very careful and use low pressure on the air chisel so the hammering action is not too agressive - don't want to break anything.  If you had a large pail or bucket you could stand the clutch end of the driveshaft in it and submerse it in used motor oil or a good penetrating fluid which may also help.  Just suggestions that may help if it does not come apart easily. 


Edited by 29 Chev, December 31, 2017 - 06:10 PM.

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#48 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2017 - 06:13 PM

Whilst waiting for the paint to dry I moved on to other jobs that I could be getting on with and I decided to look at the gear lever as this was badly pitted, I am undecided as what to do here?

 

I am not sure if the ball comes away from the shaft, I see 2 circlips that appear to be holding the ball in place but having removed these, the ball appears to be fixed fast to the shaft. The parts manual doesn’t help much.

None the less, the pitting on the ball will have to be addressed by either welding or replacement of the ball and shaft. I am contemplating welding the pitting but I don’t have a lathe so going down that road would be difficult.

 

Another repair that seems like I will have to do is to the clutch yoke, I think the hole that the pin fits into should be not be enlarged to one side as it is, please correct me if I am wrong, but that may indicate why the clutch is so bound together?

 

Having cleaned up the front rimes, I had to remove the grease nipples as these were seized and badly pitted, the one side came out without any problems but the other side just simply refused!

One of the problems was that the weld hid some of the nut of the nipple and I couldn’t get a spanner or a socket on to it to undo the nipple.

 

Then I remembered that Chev had a similar problem and welded a bolt on to the offending item. Thus I did the same and welded a bolt onto the nipple,  it came out but with a bit of reluctance but cleanly.

 

John

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • g lever pitting.jpg
  • g lever pitting 02.jpg
  • Clutch yoke ware.jpg
  • Grease nipple 01.jpg
  • Grease nipple 02.jpg
  • Grease nipple 03.jpg

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#49 Bolens800uk ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2017 - 06:18 PM

John,

You are making some good progress on your project. I like your methodology in your approach to working on the 800.

Andrew
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#50 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2017 - 06:35 PM

 

 

I am not sure if the ball comes away from the shaft, I see 2 circlips that appear to be holding the ball in place but having removed these, the ball appears to be fixed fast to the shaft. The parts manual doesn’t help much.

None the less, the pitting on the ball will have to be addressed by either welding or replacement of the ball and shaft. I am contemplating welding the pitting but I don’t have a lathe so going down that road would be difficult.

 

Another repair that seems like I will have to do is to the clutch yoke, I think the hole that the pin fits into should be not be enlarged to one side as it is, please correct me if I am wrong, but that may indicate why the clutch is so bound together?

 

 

John

Isle of Man

 

I believe that when the tractor left the factory the ball was retained in position by the two snap rings on the shaft.  I have two 1050's and a 1053 and the shifter ball was pitted and seized to the shaft on all three from being exposed to the elements at some point.  I would suggest leaving the shifter ball on the shaft and just using a two part epoxy such as JB Weld to fill the pits in the shifter ball.  You could cut the shifter shaft just above the ball first and weld a new piece of round stock on the correct length and thread the end for the shifter ball.  Then apply the two part epoxy and after it has cured sand the surface smooth to have a round ball again.  What I did on one 1050 was get a tie rod end boot for an automotive tie rod and placed it on the shaft above the ball to keep water from going down the shaft when I wash the tractor - not original but it does the job.  

 

The grooves in the clutch yoke slots are normal wear - I usually weld the worn spots in and then grind any excess weld even with the slots using a die grinder with a 1/4" carbide burr - a file would work as well but will be slower.  

 

Again just suggestions
 


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#51 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2018 - 02:07 PM

Chaps

 

Thank you for your kind comments and encouragement.

 

I have broken down the tractor into 4 major groups, the gearbox, the frame including the seat, steering and tubes, the clutch housing assembly and then the front end.

 

I work on any part the needs working on but I keep it withing the assigned group and slowly I will have 4 major assemblies that will then all go together, I hope.

 

All suggestions and advice are very welcome indeed since someone may have a better idea than me and it may be an idea that also works and helps others so please keep these coming.

 

And thank you to all for your advice and suggestions.

 

John

Isle of Man


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#52 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2018 - 03:22 PM

Chaps

 

I need your help and advice once more, no doubt Chev will be able to advise further.

 

referring to the manual that Chev provided in post #44 of his reply to my earlier question, the question I now have is this, does item 13 unscrew from the shaft?

 

Attached is the page from the Tube Frame Service Manual on how to take the clutch apart - I assume you have already downloaded the manual from the manuals section but thought I would post the page in case you missed it.  If you go to post #77 of the thread on my 1053 it shows the clutch disassembly on it - while not identical it should give you an idea of how things go together and how I removed the release bearing.  I imagine the front hub is threaded on the same as mine was, the pulley is on needle bearings and is designed to move on the shaft when the clutch is disengaged and the rear hub is on a spline if it is put together the same way as the one on my 1053.

 

 

Chev described what i am trying to achieve in the thread http://gardentractor...-project/page-6 post #77, photos 1 and 2 but I am not very clear on this.

 

I say not very clear since on mine, and this could be because of the corrosion, it seems to be part of the shaft and I am afraid of using too much force and damaging things.

 

The next question is this.

Referring to the 800 parts manual, item 7 drive collar, does this just slide off the drive shaft or does it un-thread? I see a key way but mine is so stuck fast, even with heat, a home made puller using 12mm threaded bar it wont budge, in fact there was so much tension that one of the bars snapped and to me that is just too much force.

 

Any advice and suggestions welcome.

 

All the best

 

John

Isle of Man


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#53 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2018 - 03:48 PM

Chaps

 

 

referring to the manual that Chev provided in post #44 of his reply to my earlier question, the question I now have is this, does item 13 unscrew from the shaft?

 

 

Chev described what i am trying to achieve in the thread http://gardentractor...-project/page-6 post #77, photos 1 and 2 but I am not very clear on this.

 

I say not very clear since on mine, and this could be because of the corrosion, it seems to be part of the shaft and I am afraid of using too much force and damaging things.

 

 

 

John

Isle of Man

 

If you check out this thread it shows the clutch parts of a Bolens 800 - the last picture should give you a good idea of how long the threads are on the front of the shaft.  http://gardentractor...-clutch-system/

 

 

Looking at the pictures there appears to be two flats on the front flange the same as on my 1053 so I would think it would be threaded but I cannot state for sure.  Logic suggests it would be threaded otherwise once you removed the front nut ahead of the front support bearing the spring at the rear would try and force everything forward  
 


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#54 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2018 - 04:35 PM

Chaps

 

Referring to the 800 parts manual, item 7 drive collar, does this just slide off the drive shaft or does it un-thread? I see a key way but mine is so stuck fast, even with heat, a home made puller using 12mm threaded bar it wont budge, in fact there was so much tension that one of the bars snapped and to me that is just too much force.

 

Any advice and suggestions welcome.

 

All the best

 

John

Isle of Man

 

Item # 7 should be the drive collar on your axle from the parts manual I looked at.  It originally was slid on over the axle but given the condition of your tractor it is probably very happily married to the axle.  I have attached a picture of the cross sectional view of the rear axle as well as some pictures of one of my 1050's that the right side drive hub was stuck on - not identical but it should give you a better understanding of what you are up against.  You can see the pitting / gall marks on the axle shaft where the collar was stuck to it.  The drive collar is cast so be gentle with it or you may break it and as you can see by the pictures the inside of the collar has a lot of contact area on the shaft.  The way I got the one on the 1050 to move was to use a bearing splitter against the inside edge of the collar - you will probably have to loosen the left side nut off a few turns so the axle can be slid a little bit to the right to give you an opening between the transmission case and the collar.  Then I used a harmonic balancer puller against the outer end of the axle - thread the outer nut back on to protect the threads and put a 3/8" (or larger) nut between the puller and the axle shaft end and let it act as a sacrificial piece so you do not mark the end of the axle.  I used two long pieces of 3/8" threaded rod through the two holes in the bearing splitter with nuts and washers on the back side and put the other end of the threaded rods through the two slots in the harmonic balancer puller with nuts and washers on them.  Tighten the puller up as tight as you can to apply a constant pulling force and then you can heat the contact areas of the collar up BE CAREFULL YOU DO NOT START A FIRE FROM THE GEAR LUBE - as you can see by the picture there is a spot in the middle that the collar is not a snug fit on the axle.  Once you get the hub heated you can try using an air chisel with a blunt driver if you have access to one and gently tap on the collar with a piece of flat steel in between to see if the vibrations will jar the rust inside loose.  You can also heat the collar up as hot as you can get it and then squirt it with cold water to try and shrink things to loosen the rust - BE CAREFULL AS THERE WILL BE LOTS OF HOT STEAM PRODUCED AND YOU COULD GET BURNED FROM THE STEAM.  Make sure you are wearing gloves and safety glasses / face shield - SAFETY FIRST!  These are simply suggestions to get the collar to move - use them at your own risk.  Hope you get it to move.  The roll pin hole in the collar should be open to the axle shaft so you could try spraying some penetrating fluid in it but it will probably just start a fire when you start heating the collar up. 
 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Axle Cross Section 3 Speed.png
  • Axle Shaft 1.JPG
  • Axle Shaft 2.jpg
  • Bearing Splitter.jpg
  • Inner Hub.jpg

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#55 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2018 - 03:03 PM

Thank you Chev, I shall give that a try although I fear I have a tough job on my hands?



#56 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2018 - 03:10 PM

Success!!!!

 

the clutch is apart.

 

Chev's suspicion was correct, the clutch flange does indeed unscrew but in my case it took a little trick I learned from my Grandfather, tighten before unscrewing. Once I got a little movement it came apart rather rapidly.

 

It seems that there is a lot of cleaning up before a true assessment can be made but so far it doesn't look too bad apart from needing new friction liners.

 

John

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • Clutch 01.jpg
  • Clutch 02.jpg
  • Clutch 03.jpg
  • Clutch 04.jpg
  • Clutch 05.jpg
  • Clutch 06.jpg
  • Clutch 07.jpg
  • Clutch 08.jpg
  • Clutch 09.jpg

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#57 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2018 - 02:37 PM

With the humidity rather high today and it being a little chilly, painting was put on hold and so I decided to do some weld repairs to various parts that have worn sections or deep pitting.

 

As I usually do, weld up the area and then file it back down by hand, re-weld if required and file once more.

 

It seems that sometimes my camera doesn’t want to take close ups so please forgive the not too clear photos but I am sure you can see the difference?

 

John

 

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • From this 01.jpg
  • To this 01.jpg
  • From this 02.jpg
  • To this 02.jpg
  • From this 03.jpg
  • To this 03.jpg

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#58 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2018 - 03:01 PM

I wanted to wait until I had decent light to take some photos and as the sun showed itself for a few moments today (with high humidity) I took some photos of the completed front end.

 

Things are still loose at the moment and there are a few paint runs but for the most part it turned out better than expected, I think anyway.

 

I am not sure what tires to fit, either the 3 ribbed type or the turf tires? thoughts please.

 

Hopefully the gearbox won’t take too long then I will have a rolling chassis?

 

John

 

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • Front end 01.jpg
  • Front end 02.jpg
  • Front end 03.jpg
  • Front end 04.jpg
  • Front end 05.jpg
  • Front end 06.jpg

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#59 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2018 - 03:43 PM

Welcome to GTtalk glad to have you. I just seen your post & have enjoyed it. Your doing things right it's a lot of work but your labor will be rewarding. My Mtd 990 in my avatar was a total rust bucket, no paint hardly at all. Continue keeping us up to date on your progress.
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#60 Bolens800uk ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2018 - 04:28 PM

John,

I would go for the tri ribs tyres myself. All Terrain Tyres sell Duro tyres with tubes. This is their number 01579 348843

Andrew
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