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#31 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2017 - 03:39 AM

The restoration begins……………………………

 

The first to come off is the bonnet, which was easy as it wasn’t attached by any bolts.

Bonnet removed.jpg

 

The next was the Lucas C40 Dynamo,

Lucas C40 Dynamo.jpg

This was a little more difficult since the bolts weren’t metric or imperial and it would seem that the rust had decided that it would decide on the size! This resulted in having to cut the heads off and I just hope that this is not a sign of things to come!

 

More to do later today……………………….

 

All the best

 

John

(Isle of Man)


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#32 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2017 - 03:34 PM

So, as things happen I didn’t manage to post the step by step disassembly but it has happened. I have broken down the tractor to sub-assemblies and I will work on these individually, working from the tubes up.

 

As can be seen by the photos the tubes are currently been de-rusted and I hope to treat these with phosphoric acid in preparation for priming. I want to try and provide the best possible corrosion resistance possible given the climate that the Island has

Bottom up.JPG

 

During disassembly I noticed a few things, the steering arm has severe pitting and I hope to be able to weld the pits and then grind the surface to give a nice round finish.

bad pitting.JPG

 

Some of the gears seem to be having been treated badly with some teeth suffering wear marks, although the gear box feels good, are these in need of replacement, the red arrow points to some of the worn teeth.

Gearbox 01.JPG

Gearbox 02.JPG

 

I have found some numbers on the steering column, what do these numbers mean? Could it be the serial number?

Mystry Numbers.JPG

 

I may be in luck with paint. Initially I thought I would have to use the gold found on the steering column but the chap at the paint shop said it wasn’t good enough to sample, I left in disappointment but also with hope that I may find some more original paint.

Original Paint.JPG

 

Removing the clutch I turned it over to find a superb example of the original paint on the steering gear, I hope to have this off soon to get it matched.

original paint 02.JPG

 

In this post  http://gardentractor...?hl= adventurer  Bolens1000 (post # 51) advised that he would post the paint codes, did I miss something as I can’t find the codes?

 

Hopefully someone will be able to tell me if it is possible to determine the serial number of this machine, perhaps from the engine number or a number in the castings, I really do hope it is possible.

 

So, any advice anyone would like to provide is gratefully received.

 

John

(Isle of Man)

Attached Thumbnails

  • Bonnet removed.jpg
  • Tin work removed.JPG
  • Engine removed 02.JPG
  • Steering removed.JPG
  • Derusting.JPG
  • the begining.JPG

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#33 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2017 - 03:46 PM

Looks like your making good progress

 

Without the original ID sticker its impossible to ever know the serial number, the numbers stamped on the steering column are the casting part number, almost every cast iron part Bolens stamped the casting number into.

 

Those ball joints are readily available still and I would recommend replacing them thats alot of missing material!

 

Those gears are actually in great shape for their age and you have nothing to worry about the wear is common and on yours is minimal.

While you have everything apart I'd replace all the clutch bearings as well as the trasmission seals judging by the rest of the tractor my guess is they are shot.

Your most economical thing to do is compile a parts list of what you need and you can save on shipping from the US to the UK, I should have most of what you will need instock.

 

I was slacking on the paint codes , I'm going to post them right now



#34 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2017 - 03:47 PM

 

Some of the gears seem to be having been treated badly with some teeth suffering wear marks, although the gear box feels good, are these in need of replacement, the red arrow points to some of the worn teeth.

 

John

(Isle of Man)

 

Looks like you are moving ahead quite nicely on your project.

 

I would say by the pictures those gears should still work fine - you may want to remove the three gear cluster and smooth up the rear of the teeth a little bit with a file or small sanding disc where they have been ground.  Also check the forward edge of the teeth of the gear that engages with it on the output shaft and smooth any burring up on them as well. 
 


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#35 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2017 - 04:28 PM

Greetings All

 

In between work, family and Christmas preparations I have managed to steal  an hour or two here and there in the hopes that I will be able to move this restoration forward.

 

Having completely stripped down the machine I was pleased to find some original paint on the steering gear that I am trying to get match and I may have a lead in the UK. if this lead works out I will be posting the codes here for the U.K chaps.

 

Following the electrolysis process, which removed an awful lot of the blue paint I was left with treated rust and the remains of the original gold paint. I am really please to see this as it shows me that this tractor is completely original.

never the less the old gold had to come off so further treatment with phosphoric acid removed a lot more and also treated the steel further.

 

Wire brushing followed and as can be seen by the pictures, the steel turnout beautifully.  By the condition of the tubes it seems that I rescued the 800 just in time as some of the pitting is getting deeper but I think it is still acceptable at this point, Chaps your thoughts on this point please.

 

At the moment I have most of the front end ready for paint, all except the front axial and rims, which is the next job.

Whilst taking before photos of the front wheels I noticed that the tires appeared to be original as it states "Made in the USA" look at the red arrow.

If this is the case I am even more impressed as I would never have imagined that this tractor could be as original as it was having left the factory. I am convinced that this tractor did not seem much work at all as the tires are hardly worn (tread wise) but the photos show how cracked each tire is.

 

I have the wheels at the tire shop trying to get the tires off the rims as they seem to be "glued" on to the rims even thought we have let the air out of the inner tubes, yes the inner tubes were still inflated?

 

Now, some questions that hopefully someone will be able to help me with.

 

Looking at the parts manual I am unable to deduce the layout of the front bearings and the question is, are the front bearings just a bronze bush of sorts, I cant look at the actual bearings as these are at the tire shop, so would anyone be able to take a photo for me.

I want to inspect the bearings just in case I need replacements.

 

Does anyone happen to know what range of serial numbers were used on the 63 husky 800, I think I maybe able to track down what was imported to the U.K. and knowing the range I would be able to confirm if the serial numbers given to me from an archive here in the U.K.

 

I notice that on my 800 bolts are used as opposed to "cap screws" as specified by the parts manual, did this actually happen or could it be that the bolts are the only non original parts on this Husky 800.

 

If bolts were used was there any specification as to the strength of the bolts used?

 

So, I hope to be reassembling the "front end" in the new year, if I can get the paint matched and then it is on to the rear end, which should be interesting.

 

untill the next update

 

 

John 

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • Stripdown 03.jpg
  • Stripdown 02.jpg
  • Stripdown 01.jpg
  • Derust 02.jpg
  • Derust 01.jpg
  • Preacid02.jpg
  • Preacid01.jpg
  • postacid.jpg
  • wirebrush03.jpg
  • wirebrush02.jpg
  • wirebrush01.jpg
  • Orig Paint.jpg
  • Lorigtyre01.jpg
  • Rorigtyre.jpg
  • MadeinUSA.jpg

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#36 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2017 - 04:55 PM

Now some questions that hopefully someone will be able to help me with.

 

Looking at the parts manual I am unable to deduce the layout of the front bearings and the question is, are the front bearings just a bronze bush of sorts, I cant look at the actual bearings as these are at the tire shop, so would anyone be able to take a photo for me.

I want to inspect the bearings just in case I need replacements.

 

 

 

Thanks to the part number database that LPBolens created it appears that the part # for the front bearing / bushing fit a couple of different models (see attached pdf)  and according to the parts listing I found in the manuals section they appear to be Bolens part # 1713019 (item #244)  - even though the description says bearing it appears they were a bushing and this thread has sizes in post # 18 - http://gardentractor...ng-dimensions/ 

Attached Files


Edited by 29 Chev, December 13, 2017 - 04:56 PM.


#37 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2017 - 05:10 PM

Hi 29 Chev

 

That is exactly what confused me, the picture in the parts manual looks like a bushing but the description states bearing. I have even searched the part number on some of the parts suppliers websites but nothing came up.

 

it is partly because of the post that you linked to that I am now seeking the information since my parts list is growing long and this maybe another to add to it.

 

If anyone has a photo or better description it would help me with a better mental picture and understanding of what I am dealing with.

 

Thanks again

 

John

Isle of Man


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#38 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2017 - 01:23 PM

John, you are making good progress there. I am amazed, too, at the longevity of the original tyres on my respective Bolens.

#39 James Bosma ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2017 - 09:37 PM

Types of bearings

 

67122f109f78fe158e9cb67d86902c7f_0b22c9ff-f375-4d1a-9a88-db5164d2684e_1024x1024.jpg

 

Bushing

 

 

Kit9442-2.jpg

 

Ball Bearing

 

A bushing is a type of bearing 

Things are weird on this side of the pond

 

Does this this help

 

 



#40 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2017 - 04:15 PM

Thank you all for your kind works and advice, looking at some of the restorations it seems I have a lot to live up to...................................... :)

 

I have made a little progress and two repairs, that I needed to do before painting the front end, weld repairs to the ball joint and steering arm.

 

Some may remember the first few photos that I posted showed a ball joint that had deep pitting and I elected to weld up those pits,

Ball Joint 00.jpg

 

I used my "traditional" arc welder as I don't possess a MIG or TIG welder, turned the amperage well down and tacked as I went along.I filled pit by pit, ground it down and re-tacked as required until I got an even surface, I then finished it of with a hand file.

Ball Joint 01.jpg  Ball Joint 02.jpg

 

It turned out better than expected but at the same time it could have been better if I had used a TIG or MIG welder.

 

The next to work on was the steering arm. As can be seen by the original photo there is a crack where the weld is and the face is damaged. Not only that but it seems that the arm has taken a really big beating, judging by the witness marks?

Steering lever crack.jpg  Steering lever face.jpg

 

So, I ground out the original weld and re-welded the joint. I also built up the face so that I could grind it flat again.

Steering lever crack reweld.jpg

I then ground down most of the weld and I used a hand file to finish it off and to keep it flat. It didn't turn out as perfect as I would like but at least it is more usable than it was before.

Steering lever refaced.jpg

 

That is now the whole front end waiting for paint and hopefully I shall find out tomorrow if a UK based but US owned paint company will be able to provide the correct gold and white paint using the codes provided by Bolens1000.

 

On another note, I did see in a post (that I cant find anymore) someone asking about reproduction serial number tags, would anyone happen to know if these are available or who reproduces tags?

 

all the best

 

John

 

Isle of Man


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#41 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2017 - 05:05 PM

Nice repairs on the parts - I would assume the witness marks are from someone beating the arm off of the spindle as they sometimes get seized on there.

 

I got the decals for my 1053 from Vintage Reproductions - http://www.clickitan...ns 800&x=0&y=0 

 

Post # 493 of this thread shows what they looked like - I told them the model and serial number that I wanted on them 

http://gardentractor...project/page-33

 

Is there anything left of your serial number tag as someone local may be able to duplicate it for you from measurements and a picture?

 

Sams Bolens will probably have them also - just suggestions that may help if you can't find anyone else.  



#42 Vrdaddy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2017 - 06:04 PM

Welcome to GTtalk,even if the old girl gots a little rust on her......she still looks good!🙋

#43 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2017 - 02:38 PM

Thank you Chev for the links it is most helpful.

 

I do now know, reading your post Chev that I have an awfully high standard to meet. you have done a superb job on your Bolens.

 

As can be seen by some of the photos I do not have anything resembling a serial number tag but I would still like to have a tag for authenticity value. I may try and make one in aluminium and then paint the relevant sections.

 

Having a little time to day I carried on with the list of jobs trying to get as much done before Christmas.

 

So, having treated the deck and rims the paint should be a lot easier to remove and then it is into the acid.

 

What did become apparent was the severe pitting on the gear lever, I will have to ponder this one?

 

The rims look reusable and once wire brushed I will be able to tell if this is the case.

 

Moved on to the clutch and removed that so the other parts can be treated, now just a case of working out how to get it all apart?

 

Today I had news on the paint, the sample I sent was "worn" in the words of the paint people and it isnt reliable however they did get some information from the PPG paint codes and the closest that they could come up with is RAL1035.

A part was painted as a test so I ask the forum members, whilst appreciating that a photo doesn't always help, does this gold look anywhere near the correct gold?

 

Happy Christmas to everyone

 

John

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • Deck.jpg
  • Gear Lever 01.jpg
  • Gear Lever 02.jpg
  • rim 01.jpg
  • rim 02.jpg
  • Clutch 01.jpg
  • Clutch 02.jpg
  • Clutch Bearing.jpg
  • Paint match.jpg

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#44 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2017 - 05:37 PM

 

 

Moved on to the clutch and removed that so the other parts can be treated, now just a case of working out how to get it all apart?

 

Today I had news on the paint, the sample I sent was "worn" in the words of the paint people and it isnt reliable however they did get some information from the PPG paint codes and the closest that they could come up with is RAL1035.

A part was painted as a test so I ask the forum members, whilst appreciating that a photo doesn't always help, does this gold look anywhere near the correct gold?

 

Happy Christmas to everyone

 

John

Isle of Man

 

Attached is the page from the Tube Frame Service Manual on how to take the clutch apart - I assume you have already downloaded the manual from the manuals section but thought I would post the page in case you missed it.  If you go to post #77 of the thread on my 1053 it shows the clutch disassembly on it - while not identical it should give you an idea of how things go together and how I removed the release bearing.  I imagine the front hub is threaded on the same as mine was, the pulley is on needle bearings and is designed to move on the shaft when the clutch is disengaged and the rear hub is on a spline if it is put together the same way as the one on my 1053.

 

Since you have a good paint sample on your steering gear I would suggest cleaning it off good with some degreaser and then apply some rubbing compound to remove any oxidation and bring back the lustre - then you can compare how it looks to the new sample paint. 
 

Attached Files



#45 Warmsteel ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2017 - 05:27 PM

Thank you Chev for the attachment, I was using the parts manual but had not considered a much more clear diagram in the service manual.

 

That said, I had printed a copy of your post and that is now my go to manual in the workshop. The quality and ingenuity of your workmanship aside, the quality and detail of your post in an attempt to help others is outstanding and I thank you for taking the time to produce such a superb post as it has helped me immensely.

 

That does help immensely however it seems that the friction material had long since been destroyed and the plate have been running on each other, then when left have rusted together hence my question, how to get it apart? It is soaking away and with luck it may make it a little more easy to take apart but time will tell.

 

For those in the U.K. wishing to match Bolens gold and white pain, this is what I have found

 

If you wish to match the white, go to Motaworld http://www.motaworld...com/default.htm ( I am not sure if they are the same as in the U.K. ) and ask them to look up "ford Wimbledon white" on either their Maxmayer or Capella paint system and it will find the white also with the code 9A.

 

As for the gold, Motaworld were able to find trumpet gold, which according to http://paintref.com/...i?gmcode=WA3922 is the same  antique metallic gold which translates to RAL 1035 colour wise, although Motoworld could not use the same paint, thus Capella paint was used but to RAL 1035

 

Paint codes 9A and WA3922 were kindly provided by Bolens 1000 here http://gardentractor...nt-codes/page-1 the last 2 images of post 1

 

John

Isle of Man

Attached Thumbnails

  • Primer.jpg
  • Gold white.jpg

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