Hi Travis, try the below link and see if it will work for you. Let me know...
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Posted November 28, 2017 - 12:35 PM
We purchased ours through Ag West Dist Co. Their website is
We got item numbers 200-600, 800-0610, and 800-0612 since we needed 3/4" on one end and 5/8" on the other. But as referenced above, because they are the same series (6), it worked out great.
Edited by alsparl, November 28, 2017 - 12:36 PM.
Posted December 03, 2017 - 12:15 AM
yup sure need to save that info.
Posted December 07, 2017 - 10:52 PM
Well I got to spend a bit more time on this machine and focused on the hydraulics. Needless to say, I was not surprised with the "ugliness" of the oil I got out and I can honestly say it was the worst I have ever seen come out of a tractor; even during my dealership days. It was much closer to used diesel engine oil than hyd oil. I may be chastised for this, but such is life. I drained the oil and put 3 qts of diesel fuel in the hydro and ran it for 3 minutes, going forward, backwards, and running the hyd cyl as well. I simply did this to try to clean the system a bit. Once I began draining, I took off all the hyd lines, compressed the cylinder, and drained them as well. Then took compressed air to the top port on the pump and got about a pint out even after I thought it was done draining.
I was also taking the advice of others, trying to make their success my own, and purchased the spin-on filter head and filter to replace the unreasonably expensive inline filter. Unfortunately, I hit a brick wall when the filter wouldn't fit inside the big "L" tube as it hits the nut on the hydro actuating arm. The filter I currently have is the Zinga BE-10-18. I am gonna see if I can locate a different filter to use that may not be so long/tall. Thinking of a Fleetguard HF35099 or LF3335. Anyone have any thoughts on that? Which one worked for you? Thank you for your time.
Posted December 08, 2017 - 07:16 AM
I had a Roper 16T Hydro some years ago, and I was out blowing snow with it and it just seized in the middle of the job, would not move, We got it back to my garage and thawed it out, I drained the trans and got as much water out of it as hyd. oil. Put fresh Type F ATF into it (what that particular machine called for) and it was fine.
Posted December 08, 2017 - 08:33 AM
Posted December 08, 2017 - 09:41 AM
That would be great if you don't mind, I would like to get the specs on it. Thank you again. Aaron
Posted December 08, 2017 - 01:24 PM
Posted December 08, 2017 - 03:20 PM
Posted April 15, 2018 - 10:40 PM
Its been quite a while since I have updated on this project and I apologize that. Time was very sparse this winter/spring and may available days to work on the project were taken by kids' events, which I do not hold any grudges about. Anyway, the project is pretty well finished for what the tractor will be used for. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get the unit finished until after we had all our snow, which bummed me out, but oh well. Here in Illinois, you can never predict what is going to happen.
For the spin on oil filter, I ended up having to get a hyd hose made up for the return line. The steel return line coming from the valve to the filter housing was too long. I remember reading another thread on here where the line was cut, rebent, etc. However, the rubber hyd hose eliminated that issue temporarily. For the permanent fix, I am going to cut the line towards the back, remove the overlap, then slide a hose over both ends and clamp it. Since it is the return line, I would be comfortable doing this. Likewise, putting the steel like back on would give back the support for the filter house as right now the only support is coming from the small "L" shaped tube from the exit port of the filter housing to the rear end.
The M10 engine from the Cadet 1050 works great. With using the original Cadet muffler, I cut a hole in the Ford grill and mess to allow the pip to exit the front. I was off on my measurements a bit thus it isn't exactly centered. But as you can see in the photos below, it is not entering a beauty contest.
I acquired new fender pan mounts from McMaster-Carr as the old mounts disintegrated when removed. I initially started out with the plan of making a "beautiful" new wiring harness for this machine like I did back when I made tractor wiring harnesses. But, I ended up simply using wire I had as (1) again, not entering a beauty contest, and (2) it was a cost that truly didn't need to be absorbed into this machine for what it will be used for.
The original style fuel tank that was acquired was added, fuel tank valve, new fuel lines, engine breather, ammeter, running new throttle and choke cables and away we went. The last item attached was the neutral start switch which is the same unit as IH used as their clutch pedal safety switch for the 06,56,66,86,88 series tractors.
Overall, I am very pleased with how this unit turned out for being a "grunt" of a machine with blade work being its primary function. Besides the hyd line, we will need to take apart the Ross steering assembly but that is a project down the road at this time. Sure, if we had more time and money, we would have done it to say we did.
Please let me know if you have any questions about anything or feedback. Thank you everyone for your assistance on this machine as it has been a fun project and I have certainly learned a lot myself.
Edited by alsparl, April 15, 2018 - 10:44 PM.
Posted April 15, 2018 - 10:41 PM
Posted April 16, 2018 - 05:00 AM
Glad you got it going!