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K301 to M10 in Ford LGT 125 engine swap/build


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#16 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2017 - 10:31 AM

Your very welcome.

#17 alsparl OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2017 - 07:19 PM

Since I know we all love pictures, I thought I would revisit the original mounting brackets on the Magnum M10 in the event anyone else attempts or questions if this engine will fit into the same spot as the K301. 

 

The first two photos are of me holding the original Ford engine mounting brackets in line with the mounting holes.  The bracket is held as close as I can get it as the flywheel shroud is keeping the bracket from snugging up.   With nearly 3/8" gap, it leads me to believe the M10 flywheel/shroud is larger in diameter than the original K301.  Can anyone attest to this for certain?  I can manage to "widdle" a little of the angle part of the bracket away with a Dremel to make room for the oil pan on its edge; not much needs to be taken off. 

 

Additionally, in its current state, I would not be able to get a bolt through the top hole of the mounting bracket on the flywheel side to go down through the isolator.  This is because the bracket is laying flush against the shroud. 

 

The third photo is a side view/slice of the M10 engine with no brackets.  I know it was said earlier to remove the original mounts off the frame and use a steel plate; which is pretty much the direction I think I need to go on this build.  But, to have any support whatsoever on the flywheel side due to the sump, I truly believe I need to acquire a flat oil pan and get rid of the sump oil pan.  I say this because after you remove the middle for the sump, your steel plate mounting bracket will look like a "U" with arms on the flywheel side and you will have no support.  Any thoughts on this?

 

Thank you all once again for your time and consideration.

 

Aaron

 

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#18 pryan05 ONLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2017 - 03:11 AM

Are you able to put spacers or shims between the brackets and the motor? You pretty much have to make sure the drive shaft is all lined up then work your mounts from there. As for the hole near the shroud you could fill that hole with weld than drill and tap threads and use a cap screw from the fubber mount side. You are on the right track.

#19 alsparl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2017 - 12:50 PM

Coming back to this thread to ask for a bit of knowledge.  I will get pictures posted of the engine swap and drive shaft but need to ask something of a bit more importance first.  As I moved the tractor across the garage floor the other night, with the tractor in neutral or "free wheel," I heard a noise as if something metal is being picked up by a gear then dropped through the oil and it hit the bottom of the transaxle housing.  Of course this is concerning to me as I am quite certain there ought not be any loose pieces floating around.  This is the first time I have heard this of all the times the tractor has been moved.

 

With that being said, is there a specific transaxle identification tag (model/serial) for this Peerless unit where I can properly acquire a parts breakdown of the unit itself?  I have looked all around this and cannot locate anything so I am not certain if it is stamped into the housing or if it is on the flat side of the housing facing the inside of the frame where it is not able to be seen.

 

Any information or guidance would be appreciated.  Thank you for your time and consideration.

 

Aaron


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#20 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2017 - 04:52 PM

Do you have pics of the K301 pan?  Will it simply bolt to the M10?  The K301 in my JD 120 is solid mounted to the frame with bolts going through the frame into the cast iron oil pan.  
 



#21 alsparl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2017 - 06:52 PM

HI Travis, I apologize but I unfortunately do not have pics of the K301 engine as we rec'd the machine without an engine.  This was when we decided to go with an M10 from a Cadet donor.  Knowing this tractor originally had a K301 with a sump style oil pan on it, I can now tell you the K301 and M10 sump style oil pan exterior formations are different.  The bolt pattern and block mating surfaces may be the same, but the external is very much different. The M10 sump seems to be wider and deeper.  Figuring this out was the area where the greatest amount of time was spent.  Hope this helps.

 

Aaron


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#22 pryan05 ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2017 - 07:18 PM

You can get a parts diagram on New Holland website.  Also if roll the tractor around and it's not quite in neutral it can make a clicking noise, I have notice that noise on both of my LGTs.  To be certain you can drop the oil out of the transaxle to see if there any metal shavings in the bottom of the tranny.  The transaxle is easier to take apart than to take out of the tractor.  


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#23 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2017 - 05:52 PM

huh... posted here on my lunch break from my stupid phone, post didnt show up....



#24 alsparl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2017 - 09:52 AM

Providing an update since gonna eat turkey instead of working today:  The M10 is completely installed and the driveline completely hooked up.  I went with the original Ford engine mounts due to the oil pan issue.  I did place a 3/8" riser between the bottom of the pan and the mtg bracket to give the oil pan some much needed clearance from the cross bar but then lengthened the bolts going into the bottom of the oil pan to make up for the spacer.  New mounting pads were purchased from McMaster Carr (that place is amazing) and installed first as the originals were garbage. 

 

I had done quite a bit of research on the drive line because the hydro pump shaft is 3/4" OD.  I had plenty of Cub Cadet driveline parts and they are all 5'8" OD.  So my whole thought was "how do I go from 3/4" to 5/8"on a driveline?"  I then came across a thread on another site I had bookmarked a number of years ago that I never tried and this seemed like the great project for it.  It was from Dave Kemp showing how he used PTO knuckles on Cadet machines and others.  He listed the industry mfg number for the parts he used and I did more research from there, finding you can use a 5/8" and a 3/4" knuckle together because they in the same series and use the same bearing.  I called the manufacturer to ensure I was barking up the right tree and then placed the order.  I must say this installation was fun, effective, and won't be soon forgotten.

 

The hydro cooling fan had to be moved to the backside of the dash panel. Yes, it is a Cadet fan which is larger in diameter than the original Ford unit.  I first cut the overall diameter down to the same size as the Ford fan then began the fitting of it on the drive line.  There was simply no room due to the length of the knuckle to be right at the hydro like the original.  But, I took another 1/8" off the overall diameter and placed it as far back as I could make it work.  I am not certain of the air cooling movement it will provide in that location but we will do some tests to find out.  This might be the one spot we need to make an adjust on as far as location.  Additionally, I have all intensions of attempting to sell the original driveline components to help fund the cost of this build.  (Not trying to be greedy, just trying to be wise when your hobby cannot be taken out of the family's normal operating budget.  Keeping my hobby self-sufficient financially has worked thus far keeping the Mrs happy.  And we all know about "momma being happy.")

 

I had always been taught to measure twice and cut once.  Well, when it came to the shaft itself, I measured a lot and cut once and got the desired effect.  I realize for some it may not be popular, but I purposely did away with the roll/spiral pins on the Cadet connections and went with bolts.  This allows me remove the driveshaft itself by pulling a bolt on each end and does not require the removal of the engine to accomplish the task.  Again, I read and studied Dave Kemp's way of doing things and really understood why he did what he did.  This was by far the most time consuming part of the project and we are now left with a handful of small jobs such as new wiring and electrical components, adding a spin-on hyd filter unit, engine oil and hyd oil change, mount fuel tank (thanks once again Sprint 6), etc; but I believe we are on the downhill side of things.

 

I fully understand if this is not popular with some or if there are questions, comments, or concerns; I will not be offended by anything.  This tractor has a specific purpose and it will never have a mower deck or do any PTO work, simply drawbar and blade work.  Ultimately, just want to get this done before snow flies.

 

Thanks again for all the assistance I have gained on this site; it has been greatly appreciated.  I will certainly be back with some more updates and photos for sure.

 

Aaron

 

 

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#25 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2017 - 09:21 PM

Though they made the Magnums for a lot shorter time than the K's, they are very much the same as each other internally.... though a K241 and an M10 share the bore and stroke, I wonder if the Mag might have a slight power advantage over the K's because of the ignition system difference?   

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#26 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2017 - 09:26 PM

what will become of the K301 that came off?


#27 alsparl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2017 - 10:28 PM

The K301 was gone a long time prior to us obtaining the chassis.  Would have been interesting to see what this would have been with it.


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#28 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2017 - 10:43 PM

oh/ ok, just curious, looking at old engine as possible parts donor. (and I know youre not far down the road)



#29 alsparl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2017 - 09:27 AM

Yes sir indeed, if I happen to come across one, I will gladly let you know.

 

 



#30 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2017 - 12:15 PM

 

I had done quite a bit of research on the drive line because the hydro pump shaft is 3/4" OD.  I had plenty of Cub Cadet driveline parts and they are all 5'8" OD.  So my whole thought was "how do I go from 3/4" to 5/8"on a driveline?"  I then came across a thread on another site I had bookmarked a number of years ago that I never tried and this seemed like the great project for it.  It was from Dave Kemp showing how he used PTO knuckles on Cadet machines and others.  He listed the industry mfg number for the parts he used and I did more research from there, finding you can use a 5/8" and a 3/4" knuckle together because they in the same series and use the same bearing.  I called the manufacturer to ensure I was barking up the right tree and then placed the order.  I must say this installation was fun, effective, and won't be soon forgotten.

 

Do you have this thread?  It seems to have relevancey to my 318 repower project.  

Nice work on the project and thank you for sharing the wisdom gathered in your project.






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