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need help with massey ferguson 1650


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#1 trinity5001 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 07:19 PM

i have a massey ferguson 1650 yard tractor. when i first got it it ran fine. i have had to replace a few parts since then. it came with a mower, tiller, and a snowblower. i just got it this year so haven't use the snowblower yet but i have used the tiller and mower quite a bit. one thing i noticed when i was using the tiller was that the pto belts, shafts and bearings got really hot. some heat i would think is acceptable due to friction thats understandable. but it gets almost burning hot. i can only touch the pulleys for a few seconds before it gets to hot. so i pulled stuff off and found that two bearings were really worn not so much as loose but dry and skweaky and really rough when turning them by hand. one bearing is on the shaft that goes from the engine the the transmition and the other is on the pto output where external attatchments go into. the bearings on that are the worst but i am having trouble getting them out. the other bearing that needs to be changed it the one that comes off the engine just before the pulleys that transfer power to the pto output. but i am unsure of how to get them off. any advice would be greatly appreciated. SSPX0476.jpg

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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 07:41 PM

First off :welcome: to GTTalk,

Second, there are several members with similar tractors to this. Hopefully one of them will have been into these bearings and be able to advise.

#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 08:33 PM

The large bearing at the rear....looks like you've removed the thick clip on the splined center? If so, then the shaft should press out of the bearing. You can drive it out, but there is danger of swelling it to where it's impossible to get it to pass out of the bearing. If you attempt to drive it out, do so ONLY with a brass drift to help prevent swelling the shaft. Once the inner shaft is out, remove the clip retaining the bearing & either press or drive the bearing out of the casing. I have had many bearings seized so tight to shafts or outer races seized that I've had to use acetylene torch to carefully cut the bearing races off.
On the smaller shaft bearing, there is an eccentric locking collar that has an allen set screw in it. Besides the set screw, there is a hole in the lock collar so you can insert a punch & rotate it off it's locked position. Once you turn it to unlock, you will be able to slide it out of the way. Then just unbolt the flange keeper plates & drive the bearing off the shaft. Again, may require a torch if stubborn. Someone experienced using a torch can slice the bearing race off the shaft without even putting a blister on the shaft....virtually unharmed. BTW, the eccentric lock collar "should" turn to unlock the same direction as the shaft rotates, but only if it was installed correctly. Hope this helps.
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#4 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 08:46 PM

Listen to Dan.
All the welding I see looks like someone has PATCHed

#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2011 - 08:59 AM

If you can get access to a press it makes removing bearings a lot easier and you are less likely to damage something including the new bearings.

#6 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2011 - 05:26 PM

Ducky is right, about the welding. First off, that coupling shouldn't be welded to the spline shaft. After removing everything, if you can't get it loose, take it to a machine shop to have the bearing pressed off. Then take everything to a local bearing shop and they can match the bearings up for you.

#7 trinity5001 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2011 - 09:17 PM

thanks for the help. yes i have removed the clip on the splined center. i looked it over and figured out which way it should come out but no matter what i did i couldn't get it to budge. and i wasn't sure if i had missed something and it was still held in. i was also wondering if the pulleys came off some how that would make things easier. once the shaft is out i can go from there. i have done bearings before so this isn't new to me. but im new to the tractor and things seem to be alot more complex vs car or trailer bearings.

Edited by trinity5001, June 25, 2011 - 09:36 PM.


#8 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2011 - 11:32 PM

If you could throw use a bit more info. Could you get a pic of the Hydro shaft end coming out of that Eaton hydro?
Sure this is a stinker but it can be FIXED or RE-MACHINED which ever may work.
NEVER say NEVER.

#9 trinity5001 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2011 - 12:44 AM

actually it runs great. no problems with the engine or transmition the only issue is the pto bearing. pic one is where the shaft starts coming out of the engine it then goes through the bearing in the next pic then the pic after that and the fourth pic is where it goes into the hydro. the output for the pto goes around the transmition sort of up and over i can get more pics of that if u want.

#10 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2011 - 04:27 AM

trinity5001,welcome to the forum,glad to have you with us.
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#11 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2011 - 01:34 PM

In pic. 1, I noticed the coupling which connects the fly wheel adapter and spline shaft is welded to the shaft and in pic. 4 it looks like the rear spline shaft is welded to the coupling connecting to the hydro pump. If that's correct you'll have a little harder time than usual. If so, you'll probably have to pull the cotter pin from the center coupling just behind the double pulley. Then you'll have to slide the center coupling toward the rear or front until it clears the joint. Then you'll have to unbolt the adapter on the flywheel and the center angle bracket that holds the bearing. Then remove the front shaft and bearing support assembly as a unit. Once you've got it out then you can remove the bearing.

#12 trinity5001 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2011 - 10:38 AM

well got the pto shaft out it turned out the end had mushroomed a bit but took it in and they got it out then just pulled old bearings out and put new ones in runs great now new belts and new bearings now it doesn't skweal any more. thanks for the help everyone it was greatly appreciated
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#13 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2011 - 11:58 AM

well got the pto shaft out it turned out the end had mushroomed a bit but took it in and they got it out then just pulled old bearings out and put new ones in runs great now new belts and new bearings now it doesn't skweal any more. thanks for the help everyone it was greatly appreciated


GOOD deal, and many thanks for updating us!

#14 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2011 - 12:37 PM

Glad you got it fixed, now you don't have to wear ear plugs to block the squealing bearings. Thanks for the update.

#15 trinity5001 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2011 - 09:15 PM

lol actually it may run great but its loud the engine in particular and i wear ear muffs because i have grown quite fond of finishing working and still being able to hear nicely i have sensitive hearing and am only 19 and i would like to keep my hearing good. pluss i have small speakes from an old pear of headphones that i put in them and i can listen to music while working with the tractor ^-^




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