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mf14,k321 motor tick


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#1 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2011 - 01:28 PM

recently bought a 1975 mf 14 with cutting deck and snow blade for $250 bucks.a decent price from what i have read ,original owner says its the 4th motor in this tractor and fairly fresh.pulled and kleened carb,emery clothed and set points and she fired and ran great,but with a tick.is not valves,i was all over them like hair on a bear. comp release not working so i suspect noise is from that.motor manual has jack all for info massey ferguson 001.jpg
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Edited by rexknightly, June 25, 2011 - 12:45 AM.
minor spelling boo boo,s


#2 greencoach47 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2011 - 06:28 PM

Hi, Nice buy for you there. Welcome to the site. Sorry I can't help with your queston but wanted to welcome you.
  • ncb said thank you

#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2011 - 06:53 PM

Welcome, glad you found us. Can't help with your questions, but I'm sure one of the MF'rs will be along soon.
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#4 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2011 - 08:00 PM

:wave: rexknightly Welcome to GTTalk! We're glad to have you! I'm not the Massey guy you were looking for, but I'm sure they'll be along shortly. I think that you made a pretty good deal on that MF14!
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#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2011 - 08:05 PM

MF'rs will be along soon.


Who you calling that Kenny????? :bigrofl:
It could well be the ACR causing the tick, but very hard to diagnose on the net. I don't have a pic of a camshaft & none out of engine either.

#6 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2011 - 08:13 PM

Can't remember the last time some one called me a MF'r:bigrofl::bigrofl:

#7 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2011 - 09:03 PM

thanks to all for the welcomes. running gear is surprisingly solid,considering it was used for kids toy after retiring fromwork duty.body is beat to crap though.ill be able to smooth that out. left footrest was to rotted near the frame so i welded a peice of 1 inch angle in place, worked perfect for a first time effort.massey ferguson 005.jpg 6 holes in opposite side and some heavy pitting on frame were migged and then bondoed. and to freak out the hardcore MF guys everythins siver is going midnite grey metallic and all red will be dark cobalt blue.should have some pop,we will see i guess.

#8 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 06:58 AM

and to freak out the hardcore MF guys everythins siver is going midnite grey metallic and all red will be dark cobalt blue.should have some pop,we will see i guess.


Premeditated Blasphemy.:D

Good buy there, and welcome to GTT. Sorry, can't help you on that ticking. Never had to go into mine.

Edited by IamSherwood, June 24, 2011 - 07:15 PM.
forgot to smile


#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 07:04 AM

Who you calling that Kenny????? :bigrofl:

All the Massey Fergusoners. :bigrofl::bigrofl::bigrofl::bigrofl:

#10 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 07:14 AM

rexknightly,:welcometogttalk:

Glad to have you with us.

#11 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 10:00 AM

Do you have the Kohler service manual. I have a K321 in my 314 but I've never been into the crankcase so I can't help on the compression release. The manual has a good description of assembly/repair/disassembly. It might help with the diagnosis.

#12 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 08:38 PM

I only have the massey manuals and they are not too bad except for that 1 part of the motor. they barely mention it .I just might have to go OLD SCHOOL and hit the library.thanks for the advice JD.I really didnt want to pull it apart and disturb the set of the rings, i take the plug wire off and rotate the crank by hand up to the comp stroke , when i hold the piston as hard as i can against the pressure and two minutes later the crank hasnt moved a hair. never had a motor hold the pressure that well. I just hate to lose that good of a breakin on the motor

Edited by rexknightly, June 24, 2011 - 10:43 PM.


#13 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2011 - 08:47 PM

When I have to get into an engine that I know has good rings, I simply pull the piston out slowly till rings just clear the cylinder. I then stop & take a scribe & place a single mark on the piston where the top ring end gap is, then 2 marks for where the 2nd ring gap is, & 3 where the oil ring gap is. When re=installing, I just align the ring gaps to the marks on the piston & never have had a problem. If the thin rail/expander type oil ring, I scribe small circles where the gaps are....big circle for top rail, smaller circle for the bottom rail.
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#14 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2011 - 08:53 AM

Daniel your knowledge and experience with engines is quite amazing. Thanks for sharing your tips like this one.

#15 Billygoat OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2011 - 02:41 PM

http://www.kohlereng...pdf/tp_2379.pdf
Here ya' go.
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