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Oh no Not a Green one lol


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#31 pidjones OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2017 - 06:11 AM

I rebuilt our 216 back 20 or more years ago. Ever since, it has had a nasty knock that I'm pretty sure is because I should have used a seating compound on the main/crank interface. But, it still runs and plows and tills (and used to mow before we got the 345). Only smokes on startup, though.

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#32 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2017 - 10:54 AM

Darnit well there is the cause of the smoking problem.  I should of measured this ring set to instead of assuming that they were good to go.

 

IMG_20171112_095941.jpg   IMG_20171112_095918.jpg   IMG_20171112_100057.jpg

 

 

IMG_20171112_100301.jpg

 

 

Connecting rod journal shows No signs of wear. The knock that I was hearing might be timing related. 

 

Yes I staggered all of the rings 90* from each other as per spec. Lined them back up for the Pics.

 

 

This is a Brand new NOS Kohler ring set with 5 hours of run time on them.  The Oil rings are tight on the piston and almost bottomed out. Still has a heck of a large end gap. Other 2 rings look good. 5 hours was just enough time to break them in. New the compression and scraper rings had a some light grooves running around them and if you look closely you can see that the grooves are almost completely gone.  

 

I didn't like the looks of this piston when I took the old ring set off.  The Compression ring was @ .015 Scraper ring was .017 which are both well within spec. But the Oil ring was WAY out of spec. These new rings don't look correct on this piston at all. That's a heck of a end gap for new rings isn't it? 

 

Only thing I can think of is the groove for the oil rings on this piston are cut to deep.  I also notice some scuffs and wear on the piston skirts that wasn't there before.

 

I'm selling a couple things and buying a new rod and piston kit for it.  Just picked up a Ballast resistor for the coil. Found out that the coil isn't a resistor coil. The new Points I put in were arcing really bad. Zapped the heck out of me when I forgot to turn the key off while adjust them.


Edited by EricFromPa, November 12, 2017 - 10:58 AM.

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#33 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2017 - 09:48 PM

Sold some stuff that I didn't necessarily want to but I needed the money to get this green thing up and running the way it should.

 

 

 

Ordered this Ebay rebuild kit with valves,connecting rod,piston,rings and another gasket set. I'll toss the cheap points and spark plug in the tool box for something else.

 

https://www.ebay.com...HoAAOSw0W5Z~lcN

 

The 214 had some exhaust valve noise so I'm going to lap in a new set when I have it apart. Might as well. The kit with the valves was only $15 more.


Edited by EricFromPa, November 14, 2017 - 09:50 PM.

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#34 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2017 - 01:33 AM

Sorry to hear about the oil consumption problems.  It looks like the new rebuild kit will solve your smoking and hopefully your knocking sound.  

I was also thinking of buying that same kit for my K321 out of my 149.  Lets us know what you think of it once to install it.


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#35 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2017 - 10:40 AM

I contacted the seller before buying the kit regarding the quality of the parts. He said that they are all hi quality aftermarket Stens parts. I have bought Stens rings and connecting rods before and they do the job. He's sold a bunch of these kits and by looking at his feedback they seem like a good kit. 

 

I hope it works out. I'm kinda out of options if it doesn't.


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#36 lyall OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2017 - 04:00 PM

I have had the same problems with the rings's gap aligning up with a 1/2" on several motors.  A few of them a blow by causing the dip stick to jump up and down.  Some of the cylinders were with the specs, so I just brought the rings, rod, piston set.  Some I had to hone the cylinders and get overhaul kits.

I have brought several overhauls kits from the same seller you get your from and I have not had any problems.

Like you I do not you the plugs or points that I got with the overhaul kits.



#37 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2017 - 10:04 AM

Got the Kit allready and partly assembled it. Looks really good. Definitely the shiniest connecting rod I've had yet lol.

 

Bought a used iphone 6s for $50 the off of a friend yesterday. He had to have a iphone X. Score for me lol. 

 

Pics from new to me phone. I'm impressed so far especially for being taken indoors. My 16mp Kodak camera doesn't take this good of a pic indoors. 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_0011.JPG IMG_0015.JPG IMG_0016.JPG IMG_0020.JPG IMG_0022.JPG

 

The camera has some filters to. might have to play around with those more. IMG_E0022.JPG

 

 

Edit:  SWEET they are rite side up to.


Edited by EricFromPa, November 17, 2017 - 10:04 AM.

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#38 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2017 - 02:36 AM

Engine is mostly put together. Piston,rings,rod,valves lapped and installed. Oiled up and ready to fire.  I'm going to get another coil for it before I fire it up instead of hacking into wires and installing the ballast resistor. The new set of points that I put in roughly 5 hours ago don't look to good.


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#39 pidjones OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2017 - 07:58 PM

Make sure the condenser is good, too!

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#40 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2017 - 06:25 PM

Had time to button up the 214. Fresh Oil, set points and wired in the ballast resistor. It runs. Starts easy and runs super smooth. Doesn't smoke any more.

 

However It's going to have to come completely back apart. I should of Miced the crank journal. I had it apart twice and didn't Mic the journal. :wallbanging:

 

She has a knock. Even with Brand new piston,rings and connecting rod.  I only ran it for about 20 minutes. I don't want to ruin the new rod.  It's Noticeable at 1/4 to a tad over 1/2 throttle. Definitely connecting rod knock.   It sounds absolutely perfect at idle and at 3/4-WOT though.

 

I figured it was OK by how absolutely spotless the inside of the engine was when I took it apart. But nope.  I put her to bed for the winter and I'm going to get another Crankshaft for it and pull it back apart in the spring.

 

I'm going to get a crank off of joesoutdoorpower. He cleans his parts and measures the crank journals. I've bought crankshafts off of him before and they have all been as described.

 

If I had the money I would grab this one up. It has a perfect 1.500" journal.   

https://www.ebay.com...984.m1423.l2649

 

Most of people selling crankshafts on Ebay do not Mic the journals or clean the parts. Joe's parts cost a bit more than some but you get really good parts. I would rather spend the extra $$ and know exactly what I'm getting. Especially for crankshafts. 

 

 

Oh well. As soon as I get a fresh crankshaft in it, this thing will easily last 40+ years. She's the best lookin Kohler I've ever had apart as far as cylinder wear goes. 

 

This tractor had a new fuel pump on it when I got it. Thinking the original one leaked gas into the oil. That would explain alot. 


Edited by EricFromPa, December 19, 2017 - 06:32 PM.

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#41 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2017 - 08:36 PM

That's a bummer!



#42 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2017 - 11:30 PM

I'm going to get a decent Micrometer with a dial gauge. I bought 1 of those $30 Harbor Freight digital jobbers 2 years ago and the batteries go dead in it every couple of months. Hard to find those little button cell batteries for it around here. 

 

 

I should of known something was up with it by how clean the inside of the engine was when I took it apart. Usually there is atleast SOME burnt on oil and junk up inside the block but this one literally looked like brand new cast iron. 

 

I'm also going to pull the Cam and tappets while I have it apart and carefully inspect them. Might as well since I have to pull the crank.  I have a few points cams and a couple sets of tappets in my stash yet.  


Edited by EricFromPa, December 19, 2017 - 11:31 PM.

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#43 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2018 - 05:07 AM

Before I pull the engine out and apart again, Does anyone have a Picture of how close the flange is to the engine cradle on the starter side?  Mine looks Awfully close. It's a tiny bit over 1/8" away. I bet it is causing some if not all of the knocking I am hearing. 

 

Is there a way to adjust something to get more clearance? I noticed the front (carb side) bolt holes in the cradle have slots but the rear ones do not. I don't think there are is any adjustment in the bottom holes. 

 

After I fought with it for 2 hours to get the engine bolted in the cradle (which was already bolted down to the new ISO mounts),  I read that you should install the cradle on the engine Before you drop the engine in. :wallbanging: 

 

A clear Picture of the rear block flange area below the starter will help alot. Anyone?


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#44 pidjones OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2018 - 07:40 AM

Our 216 has had a knock for over 20 years. I'm fairly certain it is because I didn't use bearing seating compound on the flywheel side bearing where it seats in the case. Slipped in way too easy, and I'm sure that is the knock. But, it still runs fine (when we use it). Mowed over 2 acres (plus some church yard mowing) for about 10 years, sat derelict for ~10, mowed again for a year and the last two used for tilling (and a plow day). Go ahead an pull it apart, but if you don't find an obvious cause, don't spend too much time looking for it.

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