Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Oh no Not a Green one lol


  • Please log in to reply
37 replies to this topic

#16 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

UncleWillie

    wabbit wangler

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10399
  • 15,183 Thanks
  • 8,584 posts
  • Location: Gaston county, NC

Posted August 25, 2017 - 08:40 PM

Nice find. 


  • EricFromPa said thank you

#17 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted August 27, 2017 - 12:07 AM

lol I'll have to take more Pics. I cleaned it up alot better and put some good wax on it. The hood will blind ya if the sun hits it.

 

 

Hub caps going up forsale as soon as I clean them up a bit. very very light rust on them that I have to polish out.The one had a dime sized dent that I popped out but other than that they are in really good condition.

 

Rear ones had some rust on the inside so I wire wheeled and hand sanded them with 120 grit and coated with Valspar Armor Anti Rust Aluminum paint. This stuff is pretty darn good. http://www.valsparmr...y-Aluminum.html

 

That should keep them from rusting again and they look good on the inside lol. I'll put them up in the Classifieds when I get them polished up.


  • Mark 149 J. said thank you

#18 pidjones OFFLINE  

pidjones
  • Member
  • Member No: 76750
  • 58 Thanks
  • 49 posts
  • Location: East TN

Posted August 27, 2017 - 07:18 PM

Replace the governor when you open the engine. Came apart on my 216, caused lower edge of piston skirt to break off. Luckily that was pretty much the limit of damage. I still till the garden with it and a 31 tiller. Even after setting unused for 11 years. Found a squeeze priming bulb in the fuel line assures first-turn-of-key starts after 4 month layups. Clean rust off of pulleys before mounting new belts. Rust eats the fabric off fast. Manual tranny is great for plowing, tilling, towing. Nit so good for mowing if you don't have a flat, open yard.

Sent from my Le Pan TC802A using Tapatalk

#19 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted September 07, 2017 - 10:40 AM

It starts really easy and runs out good but smokes a tiny bit when I 1st start it. It has good power and good governor response but I can tell it's time for rings. Have not torn into it yet but if the cylinder measures out decent I may just dingle ball hone and install new rings. I will plastigauge the connecting rod if it looks decent. If it's worn I will replace it.

 

Steering wheel needs replaced. Cheap plastic thing has 1 broken spoke. Wonder if a steering wheel off of an older 68 square fender 110 will fit the shaft on my 214 ?

 

Neighbor has a 110 parts tractor that I have been grabbing a few parts off of. Just bought the starter and a couple other small parts off of it the other day. He bought a new starter for it and put it on to find out that the engine will not run without being rebuilt. It needs bored out and so he decided to just park it. It has a severely worn out K241 in it with a broken compression ring and really chewed up cylinder. 



#20 Trav1s ONLINE  

Trav1s

    Got points?

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5472
  • 3,072 Thanks
  • 4,220 posts
  • Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Posted September 07, 2017 - 09:52 PM

It starts really easy and runs out good but smokes a tiny bit when I 1st start it. It has good power and good governor response but I can tell it's time for rings. Have not torn into it yet but if the cylinder measures out decent I may just dingle ball hone and install new rings. I will plastigauge the connecting rod if it looks decent. If it's worn I will replace it.

 

Steering wheel needs replaced. Cheap plastic thing has 1 broken spoke. Wonder if a steering wheel off of an older 68 square fender 110 will fit the shaft on my 214 ?

 

Neighbor has a 110 parts tractor that I have been grabbing a few parts off of. Just bought the starter and a couple other small parts off of it the other day. He bought a new starter for it and put it on to find out that the engine will not run without being rebuilt. It needs bored out and so he decided to just park it. It has a severely worn out K241 in it with a broken compression ring and really chewed up cylinder. 

Check out that block... It might be a k301 casting that was factory bored to the k241 specs.  Those are valuable to the right people.

The steering wheel will work on your machine.  


  • EricFromPa said thank you

#21 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted September 07, 2017 - 11:41 PM

It's just a k241. But it is STD bore. It's clean and rebuildable but I don't "need" it.

 

Cool I'm gona try to remove the steering wheel. Should come off fairly easy. Still has the center cap on it so it might pop rite off with some of my home brew penetrating oil.



#22 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted September 09, 2017 - 06:26 PM

Well well well. Guess what I found out. 

 

I'm 90% sure it has a replacement engine in it. The inside of the sheet metal is all Grey AND it's STD bore with some faint cross hatching left in the cylinder.

 

Oh ya I had 1 head bolt twist off and the other ones were not tight. Rear ISO mounts are shot.Thinking that is what I was hearing and thought it was piston slap.

 

It's going to be honed and new STD rings installed

 

Pics

 

Poor thing lol

IMG_20170909_170846.jpg

 

 

IMG_20170909_170444.jpg IMG_20170909_170459.jpg IMG_20170909_170526.jpg IMG_20170909_170535.jpg

 

Opps

IMG_20170909_170642.jpg

 

Grey paint on the inside of the tins.

IMG_20170909_170713.jpg

 

 

 

 


  • KennyP and Mark 149 J. have said thanks

#23 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted September 09, 2017 - 06:52 PM

Now to choose a head.

 

Original head is OK but I whacked 2 of the small fins off trying to shock the bolt loose. Didn't work she was stuck good. Tried penetrating oil and heat and beating on it and tightening it but it wouldn't budge. Had my impact gun on it and it twisted off. Still enough to thread a nut on so I'm going to try welding a nut fast and turn it out with a bit of heat. If that fails I'll have to drill and tap it.

 

Original head is on the bottom left. Bottom right head is a bit heavier weight wise. It has 3 thick fins in the middle. Top head has different spark plug location which will not work with the Tins unless I drill a big 1" hole but it is heavier than both of the other heads.

 

IMG_20170909_171940.jpg IMG_20170909_171912.jpg

 

All 3 heads are good and straight. Just need cleaned up a bit.

 

 

This big girl stopped by and visited for a while. Landed on a tarp that is covering the neighbors 4 wheeler that I'm working on.

She's about 8 inches long and was eyeballing a big fat juicy grasshopper on the ground just below her.

 

Wasn't camera shy that's for sure. lol

 

IMG_20170831_133446.jpg

IMG_20170831_133617.jpg IMG_20170831_133531.jpg


  • KennyP and Mark 149 J. have said thanks

#24 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted September 19, 2017 - 02:05 AM

Well I got the broken bolt out. It was not fun. 4+ hours to remove 1 broken bolt.

 

Tried welding a nut fast but all it did was twist off. Tried heat and lube and another nut but the weld twisted off.

 

I had to carefully drill the whole way through it with 1/2 dozen different size bits untill it was paper thin and grab a small punch and fold it in and turn it out with a screw driver. Then ran a bottoming tap down and cleaned up the threads.  It was really really stuck.

 

Reason it was so stuck was apparent after I drilled through the bolt and black soot clogged up my drill bit. The factory drilled through a bit on the back side into the exhaust port. Just a small hole but enough to really gunk up the threads.

 

I lost the top 3 threads due to a bolt extractor pulling the threads out but I have plenty of good threads left if I put a thinner washer on that bolt. The head bolts don't bottom out with the head on even if I take the washer off. The washers on the head bolts are between 1/4" and 3/8" thick so It should be fine with a thinner washer.

 

Just hope I don't have to take the head back off in a few years. I could glob some nickle rod down in the bottom but my old stick welder burnt up a few years ago.

 

 


  • KennyP, Mark 149 J. and Whizdbiz2 have said thanks

#25 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted September 27, 2017 - 04:57 PM

Got my new rings and engine mounts and belts.

 

I'm not happy with the Stens rings I got. Popped them in the bore and the end gaps are all over the place. Compression ring .016 Scraper ring .027 oil rings are not measurable with my feeler gauge unless I stack them. It's a Snap-On precision set that goes from .001 - .032. I approximate the gap at between .035 - .038 which is no bueno.

 

My old oil ring was worn past .030 but the top 2 rings were both .018 tight. So the new rings are actually worse than the old ones I took off.

 

New Engine mounts look good. I drilled and punched the rivets out. I need to get some good 8mm bolts and Nyloc nuts yet.     

 

I found and ordered a set of NOS std kohler K321 rings. So I'll be waiting another week for those to show up. Hopefully I can get 1 good tight set that's within spec out of the 3.  Pretty frustrating.

 

Ordered 2 gallon of Briggs and Stratton OE SAE 30wt. Couldn't pass it up for $15 shipped a gallon. I've used it in other kohler engines and it seems like good oil.  


Edited by EricFromPa, September 28, 2017 - 03:41 AM.

  • pidjones and Mark 149 J. have said thanks

#26 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted October 15, 2017 - 06:09 PM

Engine is going back together. Ended up using the original head that I broke 1 of the small fins off of. The other 2 heads I have are slightly warped.

 

Have to wait on parts again before I can drop it in. Ordered a carb kit,carb spacer and gaskets and fresh points and condensor. 

 

$450 for the tractor and $200 in parts. But that includes new drive belts,all 4 rubber ISO engine mounts,2 sets of rings,engine gasket kit with new head gasket And 1 can of JD green paint. 

 

Might have to get another deck belt if I don't have 1 that will fit but other than that I have the engine ready to drop in.

 

Going to run it for roughly 5 hours with non detergent 30wt and let it set for a couple days and drop the oil pan and see how much metal sludge I get in the bottom of the pan before I call it good to go and put good oil in it. Cool thing is I can drop the pan on this one without pulling the engine back out.

 

I honed it without pulling the crank but I did have a oil soaked rag jammed tightly down in the bore at the very bottom. Sprayed it down with brake clean really good untill a white paper towel was still white when i whipped it out. It's lightly honed down to about 1" from the bottom, good to go.

 

Easy to oil the cam and other internals before firing it up. just fill with the recommended amount of oil and turn the engine over onto the head.

 

You Have to oil the cam if you use solvent to clean the inside of the block. Otherwise the cam can seize on the pin and either twist the pin in the block or snap the camshaft in 1/2. I had 1 that I rebuilt a few years ago seize and spin the pin in the block. It instantly ruined the pin but wasn't ran long enough to hurt the block. She squealed like someone stepped on a Cats tail.


Edited by EricFromPa, October 15, 2017 - 06:12 PM.

  • KennyP and Mark 149 J. have said thanks

#27 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted October 15, 2017 - 06:32 PM

Drilled the engine mount holes out slightly larger and put 1/4 20 stainless bolts and nyloc nuts on them. The rear engine mounts both had 1 of the rivets sheered off and all 4 original mounts were pretty sad looking. 

 

 

RePainted the side panels and touched up a couple spots on the rear fender. Paint matched up really good. Once it's buffed out you won't be able to tell where i painted.

 

This engine is definitely not original. Original engine would of been a K321QAS this is a K321S replacement long block. Haven't looked up the engine year yet but I'll do that tomorrow. It has a model and small separate serial number tag on it.   No Balance gears in this puppy. :dancingbanana:


Edited by EricFromPa, October 15, 2017 - 06:40 PM.

  • KennyP, pidjones and Mark 149 J. have said thanks

#28 pidjones OFFLINE  

pidjones
  • Member
  • Member No: 76750
  • 58 Thanks
  • 49 posts
  • Location: East TN

Posted October 16, 2017 - 06:05 PM

Hope you replaced all of the governor parts while you were at it.

Sent from my Le Pan TC802A using Tapatalk

#29 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted October 28, 2017 - 03:53 PM

Got the engine back together and in the tractor. It starts and runs.

 

Some how I picked up some pretty significant Connecting rod knock from 1/4 - 3/4 throttle. My points are set a little tight and could be causing some of it but I do not like the sound of it at all.  

My old torque wrench may be at fault here. Might have torqued the rod bolts down a bit much. 

 

 

And after running it for nearly 6 hours the darn thing is still smoking. Figured it would smoke some till the rings seat but the rings should be seated by now. It ran 1/2 the day yesterday variating the throttle every couple minutes while I worked on a couple push mowers. May have cracked a ring installing the piston?  I did use a good ring compressor so I do not see how that could be the case.

 

Going to pull the head and have a look for the tell tale signs of a broken ring but I may just send this one down the road. I don't have $100 laying around to spend on a Ebay rebuild kit.

 

Has anyone ever milled a couple thousandths off the the big and small end on a connecting rod and successfully reamed the journal with a 1.500 straight or Spiral reamer?  My uncle has a bunch of reamers and a mill and lathe down at the farm. Would be a heck of alot cheaper than buying another connecting rod if it can be done. 



#30 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,337 Thanks
  • 2,987 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted October 28, 2017 - 04:42 PM

New Parts that were installed so far.

 

New points and condensor

NOS Kohler STD Rings

Head Gasket

Breather Assembly gaskets ( Yes breather is installed correctly lol ) (I installed one upside down on another engine and it smoked like crazy. Forgot about the drain hole needing to face downwards) 

Good Carb rebuild kit

Both Belts

All 4 engine mounts

Non detergent 30wt oil (for breakin only)

 

 

Work done so far.

Engine out, disassembled and cleaned

Honed cylinder

Cleaned and lapped the head

Drilled and tapped broken head bolt

Painted exhaust with a Good ceramic header paint

Painted Hood side pannels

Touched up paint on fender.

 

Installed new drive belt set

Installed new engine mounts

Installed rings on piston

Installed piston and connecting rod

Cleaned carb and installed carb kit

Installed new points and condensor

Reset governor and pre set carb adjustments

 

Fully assembled Engine installed with oil and the whole 9 yards.

Reset variator as per the manual suggests when installing new belts.

 

Reused oil pan gasket with a bit of permatex. (Only temporary) Will replace gasket when I drop the pan to clean the pan after running the non detergent break in oil.

 

I still only have a little over $200 in parts invested in it but when money is tight there is nothing else I can do but let it sit or sell it AS IS. 

 

I had planned on selling the Wheel Horse 312 (currently 298 hours on the clock) with it's little 37" SD 2 blade deck and keep the JD because it's deck is perfect and it has a plow. I was looking for a plow and a 42" SD deck for the Wheel horse but a good WH deck goes for $300+ in my area and the plows are going for around $250.   

 

 

The way it is now I'll be VERY lucky to get the $450 I paid for the John Deere let alone all the work and parts that went into it.  I'm severely frustrated.

 

BUT it LOOKS Really Really good lol.


Edited by EricFromPa, October 28, 2017 - 04:48 PM.

  • Mark 149 J. said thank you




Top