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999 Yardman fixing


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#1 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2017 - 09:22 PM

Gonna start new topic for my Yardman. This is an MTD 999, also made for White. 22hp Kohler. Hydro, 3pt., 50" deck.
Here's some pix of it looking around it. Found NO roller system on back of the deck. Blades upside down. The stops on one side for front of deck, little straps, just all bent up and stuck. Those I have straightened now and blasting for paint. Right side cover off now and wondering what that finned item is on engine. I suspect they had oil coolers then? Pretty dirty on this side. Finding lots of grass dried up in many places. I've oild and greased many linkages and most are working much better as they should be. Will be putting bearings in the pto shaft, one is short half it's balls. Left side needs the cover. Need to work on better wiring, the lights are all messed up or missing at this time. The ammeter isn't right either, think they added that and did it poorly. Has a Deere seat on it with jumping deer, have to change that for sure!! Here's pix.

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Edited by glgrumpy, August 20, 2017 - 09:27 PM.

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#2 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2017 - 09:44 PM

That's a nice GT. Do you know what year this was made. Im guessing late 70's early 80's maybe. Looks well made like the 990.

Edited by Sawdust, August 20, 2017 - 09:44 PM.


#3 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2017 - 10:01 PM

I like the tensioner spring wired to the side of the deck.

#4 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2017 - 10:09 PM

The upside down blades create more lift so you don't need the roller for the rear of the deck!   :D

 

I like the looks of the tractor.  


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#5 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2017 - 08:58 AM

That's a nice GT. Do you know what year this was made. Im guessing late 70's early 80's maybe. Looks well made like the 990.

1996 vintage.


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#6 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2017 - 01:24 PM

Looks a whole lot like my White 1655.  Mine has the L Head Briggs.  Nice looking tractor.  Does your have the lever to the right of the steering wheel to manually engage the PTO by tightening the belt?   That is the way mine was set up but don't use that part.



#7 MolonLabe ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2017 - 04:05 AM

Looks like a good one! The factory ammeter uses an external shunt and was the first thing I replaced on mine. Found this one on epay and plugged it in, made in USA!

 

http://www.ebay.com/...z4AAOSwc-tY54XZ

 

Pacific Green Metallic is a perfect match for the paint refinish. Those carriage straps come in handy when using the 3 point to keep the carriage from dropping.


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#8 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2017 - 08:43 PM

Got some new bearings and cleaned up some parts and going to be re-assembling soon.  Friend pushed the pulley off the shaft, got blasted, and now good to go.

I had some welded on nuts that bolts broke off in, on axle. I just put a socket and breaker bar and snapped them clean off. Now will need nuts on them, easy to do.  I have no actual repair manual, not sure if can put in bearings , then mount to tractor and still get the pto shaft in thru them or just what.


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#9 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2017 - 05:45 PM

Well Molonlabe, got that very gauge. I hooked it up to see if worked and reads real nice and correct, Thanks for link. Have dash being cut out for that area, will get more done later on that. Putting the pto back on, got it bolted in with shaft. I wanted to replace the cable to lever, but is up under dash and only way to get it off means St. wheel comes off. SO, looking at that and is plastic wheel and stuck of course. I'm soaking now. Tried a small ball joint spreader to go between it and column. If fits, but just seems to be smearing the plastic, can't get in to metal there, If there is any??  Darn stud on top is only a 3/8" and am afraid to hit much or push on it with puller in fear of bending over. I might just forget that and leave old cable in and try to clean up it's rusty end best I can. I found new cable at show that I beleive is going to be same, it's shame if I can't get it in. Why so hard???


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#10 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2017 - 06:38 PM

Here is what worked for me.  I tied a rope around the center point of my steering wheel on my cub 149.  Backed off the retaining nut so I had a place hit with my hammer and a small block of wood.  Attached my engine hoist to the rope. Put tension on the rope until the tractor was barely off the ground.  Hit the block of wood and my steering wheel finally came off.  I had tried everything else but this worked.


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#11 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2017 - 06:10 AM

Ok, pto back on. Used the old cable, wheel not budging. Had heck of time putting front cover on. It goes across frame in front and tucks under to bolt on. First bolt up and sparks flew off pulley. So, had to cut bolt holes longer to position it correct. Looking at frame from sides, looks like it may be bent. Sort of from behind engine area looks like whOle front section is bent upwards. I'm not really seeing any rips or wrinkles anywhere. I took some pix, not sure if can see it.

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Edited by glgrumpy, September 18, 2017 - 06:40 AM.

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#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2017 - 06:14 AM

Looks angled up to me!


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#13 secondtry ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2017 - 07:50 AM

I would use a straight edge or string to check it. Compare to the other side. If both sides match it is likely factory. Don  


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#14 Diesel1050 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2017 - 01:53 PM

The frame is supoosed to be bent, to clear the driveshaft on the battery tray.

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#15 MolonLabe ONLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2017 - 12:36 PM

GL, here's a pic of my 999 just to ease your mind. I too wondered about it at first.

 

SAM_2087.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 


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