Case 448 Questions
Posted August 04, 2017 - 11:21 PM
I am new to the tractor world in general and have some questions. Im super excited about this little tractor and cant wait to get some attachments and have fun working with it.
It has a 3 point with a hydraulic lift. First off the top piece/bar of the 3 point is missing.. what is that called and should I be concious of size when buying one or are the 3 points on the little GT's the same size as larger tractors?
How big can you usually go with the attachments for these little GT's? Lets say an angle blade or a box blade... 4ft, 5ft, 6ft? Disc plow? How much weight can it realistically lift with a boom or pallet fork? Will it lift/move a pallet with a V8 small block or maybe even a big block?
I notice some case 448's have a rear hydraulic valve and handle to use a snow blower, wood chipper, tiller, hydraulic brush hog, etc.. mine does not have this valve and handle.. can I buy it and install it to gain this functionality? If so whats it called, where to buy(already checked ebay), approximate cost and how big of a job?
What are some Notable Front attachments and components needed to use certain front attachments that I should be aware of?
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Posted August 05, 2017 - 06:25 AM
Posted August 05, 2017 - 06:46 AM
The 3 point hitch is a category 0, and it's not the same size as large tractors. Three-point hitch article on Wikipedia.
There are very few new Cat 0 implements available, so you'll have to shop craigslist etc. BEWARE that most Sears Cat 0 implements you see won't fit your hitch. Most Sears implements used their own standard which is different than true Cat 0.
Modern garden tractors use a sleeve hitch rather than Cat 0. You can buy conversion adapters that will let you use sleeve hitch implements with your tractor. Most of them also allow you to connect pin attached equipment like trailers, spreaders etc. Here's one from Ballard Fabrication: Category 0 Sleeve Hitch. They also make some other Cat 0 stuff.
How much you can lift will depend on how far back it is from the tractor. Longer reach=less lift. I suspect yours will be like my Speedex - you'll be limited by the front of the tractor staying on the ground rather than by how strong the hydraulics are. Doubt you'll be lifting engines.
Implement wise figure 40-48" blades and discs. With proper tires and weight a 10" moldboard plow.
Edited by MiCarl, August 05, 2017 - 06:49 AM.
- KennyP said thank you
Posted August 05, 2017 - 02:01 PM
I found in the manual the hydraulic PTO is what I'm missing. It would have been hydraulic PTO kit L-17. Nothing on ebay... and I have a feeling when one does appear on ebay it will be far from complete and questionable if its any good. Any chance of ordering the L-17 kit from a dealer(I know dumb question lol.. but better to ask than be left wondering) Is there an aftermarket or easier to obtain kit that will work? I'd really love to be able to brush hog.
I see on google a lot of people have a front loader on these. Didnt see one in the manual. Maybe I missed it. Is there a specific on that works with these or is it more a specific size and attachment system? How do you attach the hydraulics? Is there a valve you have to buy or that comes with a front loader?
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Posted August 05, 2017 - 04:45 PM
Depends on what year you have. Pre-78 or so was a short frame, after that they made the frame a couple inches longer. So there are 2 different lengths of hydraulic hard lines for the rear pto. Mostly it runs a tiller, the logsplitters are pretty hard to find. Rear hydraulic mowers even more so but they are out there. Rear ptos cost a couple hundred or less, used, with the hard lines.
Case put the snowblowers up front and they are belt driven. There is a lift bar and a separate mule drive to run them. They made a very good 54" plow with its own lift bar and steel adaptor plate at one end.
This is the place for parts and help figuring out what parts you may need https://salempwr.com...tore/ingersoll/ make sure you talk to Brian he knows just about everything about these.
Make sure you're running on both cylinders before putting much effort into it, they can run on 1 with a broken rod. Onans cost more to rebuild than an old Case is worth. imo.
Once you get your tractor going you may find it is jerky, they have 2000psi pressure in the drive system and can pop wheelies by accident, which if you have spinal issues isn't much fun. Also they don't have strong brakes so you have to use the "retard" function on the drive lever if running away down hill.
Avoid rear wheel weights or you may see the rear end break apart. They had weak grade bolts on the inside. Brian can sell you a retro fit kit with stronger bolts if you end up liking the tractor.
Most guys don't put loaders on these. Instead they buy a 648 which are factory loader tractors built to handle the added strain, foot pedal drive control, and a whole lot more loader goodies than you could build into a 448 conversion for the price.
The rear lift cylinder is strong enough to break the arms off the old style 3pt lift if you put too much weight back there. Don't ask me how i know...
- KennyP, Mitchkrama and My3kidsfather have said thanks