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Tecumseh HH120 SSI


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#1 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 09:56 AM

I have a Tecumseh HH120 on a Bolens 1257 that has spark, but the engine won't fire...at all, even on ether.  I took the head off to inspect.  All looked fine...no stuck valves, but the head gasket looked to have a tiny leak.  I re-lapped the valves and installed a new head gasket.  It has plenty of compression, valves are operating fine.  My next step is to inspect/test the solid state ignition module, pin lengths on the flywheel, etc.  I know if the pins aren't set correctly, it may fire on the wrong pin at startup advancing the timing. 

 

I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen?  I saw plenty of threads with the SSI failing, but none with spark and no fire.  Thanks in advance for the advise/help.

 

Billy



#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 10:31 AM

Sometimes the spark is weak. It can fire a plug in open atmosphere but not in the compressed gas of the combustion chamber. I have an old B&S tool that tests for this by pumping up the inspection chamber to test the spark under pressure. Be very carefull with that ignition because it is easy to damage it. Atleast one of the manuals in our Manuals Section has a step by step troubleshootng guide for those Techys. You can also go to a web site called Engines and Magnets. Ed Stoller does an excellant job of explaining an showing how to repair or replace the system. Good Luck, Rick
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#3 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 10:49 AM

Thanks.  I did find the Engines and Magnets site with my research.  I'm going to check the pin gaps and do the resistance checks and see where that leads me.  I haven't started on the ignition yet.  It may be next week before I have time to do it.  I was just putting some feelers out there to see if anyone else has ran across this.  This is the first Tecumseh I've worked on with this ignition system.  It looks like there are replacement solutions for the NLA SSI module, so that's a good thing.


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#4 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 11:31 AM

Thanks.  I did find the Engines and Magnets site with my research.  I'm going to check the pin gaps and do the resistance checks and see where that leads me.  I haven't started on the ignition yet.  It may be next week before I have time to do it.  I was just putting some feelers out there to see if anyone else has ran across this.  This is the first Tecumseh I've worked on with this ignition system.  It looks like there are replacement solutions for the NLA SSI module, so that's a good thing.


Take your time. I was given a 1974 Wheelhorse C-160 with its original OH160. It was missing the ignition switch. I am afraid to play with it because I may damage the module. One of these days I will get inspired and tackle it. Good Luck, Rick

Edited by boyscout862, July 27, 2017 - 11:32 AM.


#5 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 08:04 PM

Is it the alternator type or non alternator type?

#6 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 09:13 PM

Is it the alternator type or non alternator type?


I'll know next week after I tear into it.
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#7 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2017 - 06:29 AM

If it has a starter gen it's non alternator , if it doesn't and has a regular starter it's alternator. Let me know I'll tell you some other things to check on it.

Edited by Tecumseh power, July 28, 2017 - 06:30 AM.

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#8 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2017 - 08:29 AM

If it has a starter gen it's non alternator , if it doesn't and has a regular starter it's alternator. Let me know I'll tell you some other things to check on it.

Sorry...my deductive reasoning skills apparently weren't working yesterday!?? :( 

 

It has a regular 12V starter, not the starter-genny.  Thanks.



#9 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2017 - 08:41 AM

So...I tested the resistance on the coil lead from the stator.  It tested at 250 ohms.  The manual says if it reads under 400 it needs replaced.  The long pin on the flywheel looked to be broken off.??  I cut a new blunt end on the pin with my Dremel and drove/adjusted both of the pins to spec.  I reinstalled the flywheel and tried it just for fun since the long pin was broken.  Same results...spark but not firing.  With these results, is it worth buying a 45 year old replacement stator, or should I just convert it with one of the conversion kits available?  Are the stators reliable enough to trust a used unit?


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#10 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2017 - 12:01 PM

I tell you what, since I'm close, I'll just come take it off your hands so you won't have to worry about it :D :D

 

Usually the stator is not the issue. When you say coil lead from stator, which wire are you testing? I'm just trying to picture which system we are testing since there was 3 basic versions of the SSI modules and different amperage stator/charge coils.

 

The feed wire to that comes from under the flywheel to the SSI module should read 400 ohms of resistance on the 10 amp

The feed wire to that comes from under the flywheel to the SSI module should read 137 ohms of resistance on the 20 amp

 

I am thinking though it's the module itself.

 

I have converted mine to a battery/coil system, but for the money, Dale at Overnight Solution Ignition make a plug/play system to replace current one.


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#11 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2017 - 01:17 PM

Thanks Tahoe.  I was leaning towards Dale's system.  I hate to put much money in a 45 year old ignition system.  I have no problem spending money on new.  I was testing per the manual I had.  It only referred to the 400 ohm or less spec.  It didn't state 10A or 20A.

The stator has one wire that goes to the module/coil, and the multi-pin connector goes to the voltage regulator/rectifier.

Here are some pics I acquired off the interwebs...

 

This is the module/coil...

s-l200.jpg

This is the stator...

Tecumseh-HH100-HH120-Stator-USED.jpg


Edited by Billy M, August 03, 2017 - 01:20 PM.

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#12 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2017 - 02:23 PM

That's a 10 amp stator, it has the 400 ohm spec.

 

Did you test the resistance on the plug wire? It should be 4000-7000 ohms


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#13 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2017 - 03:07 PM

That's a 10 amp stator, it has the 400 ohm spec.

 

Did you test the resistance on the plug wire? It should be 4000-7000 ohms

I actually just found that plug wire spec today.  I was going to check it this evening.  With my stator testing out at 250 ohms, do you think that could be the culprit?  I do have spark, it's just apparently weak.  Either way, there is a used stator on Feebay that "tested fine".  It's $65 though.  I would probably rather put that money in a new conversion.






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