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Advice on first Sears

sears suburban ss16 st16 ss12

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49 replies to this topic

#46 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2017 - 03:07 PM

Looks like the toe of the plow is too high, won't let it dig in!



#47 TerribleCj OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2017 - 03:16 PM

Yeah, I figured out how to adjust it after that video. I dug up about 1000 sq ft with the cultivator after that. It ran great the whole time, then wouldn't stay running at full throttle and would only run on minimum throttle...limped it into the shop to see what's up. I think the new float will help a lot. I also need to adjust the hi and lo needles. I set them to factory and didn't even bother to fine tune. I also need to adjust the clutch/brake as well as the park brake. On top of that, I have to address the throttle/choke creep issue. I think by next weekend, it'll be performing like a new tractor.
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#48 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2017 - 12:51 PM

Take a picture of the 3pt setup. The two small lift arms should have a bend in them at the top. As you move the arm forward, those bends kind up roll over the cross pivot bar of the lift and "locks" in the raised position. 



#49 indslpwr04 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2017 - 08:40 AM

The easiest least frustration way to get to the wiring is to just remove the battery tray and the would of wiring will open up to you.  There is a vertical strip of metal in front of the rubber intake tube. The throttle cable clips to it with a tiny metal clip.  if its worn out or not tight the cable will slide.  There another kind of clip under the base of the air cleaner right behind the front exhaust pipe.  That clip holds the choke cable in place.  Same deal if the cable slips the choke will close itself.  I have found that setting the choke full open with the choke handle all the way in, the choke blade should be about 10 degrees from perfectly vertical.  I think this compensates for air leak around the throttle shafts.  if the shaft seals are worn extra air will get sucked in and change the AF ratio.  Onans are picky on AF ratio.  The float will cure 90% of your problems.  My tractor has been in the family since new and not jacked up with carb adjustments and i still found that the idle a fuel needles were bent.  Also the needle and jet were worn out.  If your going in deep enough to change the float, put a full kit in it.  A full kit with pulse pump are available on ebay for less than $100. I like using the clear fuel filters,  That way you can see if your getting fuel to the engine.  If mine sites for a long time i have to blow in the tank to help the pump.   


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#50 TerribleCj OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2017 - 06:36 AM

Well, my 12 volt pump has been working out pretty dang good so far, I'm pretty pleased with it. Metal float is in and I;m pretty sure my carb issues are behind me. My newest issue is what I think is a broken flywheel key. It could be something catastrophic and way worse but thats what it feels like to me. I've broken a few on outboards and it has the same feel. Starter is turning the flywheel but the crank isnt rotating. Just happened all of a sudden while I was starting it the other day. I just got home from a trip and have some time to get into it.


Edited by TerribleCj, August 05, 2017 - 07:00 PM.

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