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Repairing The 15 Tooth Gear On A Tubeframe 3 Gear Cluster


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#1 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2017 - 05:18 PM

Since the transmission in my 1053 is making a bit of noise when it is in High Range I decided to repair another three gear cluster with a damaged 15 tooth gear using a new gear and welding it on to the shaft. I am hoping to replace the three gear cluster with the welded gear shortly with this cluster to see if the transmission is any quieter with the new gear.  A pdf of the information on how to do this is loaded in the manuals section -  http://gardentractor...e-transmission/ .  Thought I would do a post on it as it may be of interest to current and future Tubeframe owners with the 6 speed manual hi / lo range transmission. 

 

Got the new gear and the damaged cluster as you can see in Pictures1 and 2.  Removed the needle bearings and gave the cluster a good cleaning with the wire brush to make sure the other two gears will still in good shape.  I believe this is the original cluster out of my 1053 and it has been sitting around for a while and had a bit of surface rust on the teeth but they cleaned up nice.  Machine the tooth end of the gear so that it was the correct tooth width, formed a collar on the outer edge and cut a taper where it will be welded to the cluster shaft.  Cut the cluster shaft to remove the damaged gear using a hack saw, faced the end of the shaft and formed a taper on the edge where it will be welded to the gear.  Did a test fit of the gear and went to insert the shaft I had made up for the last one I did but found out the end of the cluster with the two large gears was .675" inside so the shaft would not fit in.  Decided to chance pressing the new gear collar inside the cluster shaft and tacked the gear in four spots and checked it for run out - had about .002" which looked good so I welded the gear on to the shaft and  let it cool.  Set it back in the lathe and checked it for run out and with the two ends running true there is about .005" run out on the middle shaft which I think should work ok - things must have distorted a little bit from the heat of the welding.  Turned the welded area down in the lathe and then used that area for the steady rest to run on while I machined the end of the gear to the correct length.  Still have to turn the I.D. to the correct size in the gear and then machine the inside step for the needle bearing.  I have also attached a very short video of the cluster running in the lathe after I welded the new gear on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 New 15 Tooth Gear.jpg
  • 2 3 Gear Cluster With Damaged 15 Tooth Gear.jpg
  • 3 Needle Bearings Removed.jpg
  • 4 Machining New Gear In Lathe.jpg
  • 5 Teeth Turned Down And Collar Formed.jpg
  • 6 Teeth Turned Down And Collar Formed.jpg
  • 7 Taper Machined Where Gear Will Be Welded.jpg
  • 8 15 Tooth Gear Cut Off Of Cluster.jpg
  • 9 15 Tooth Gear Cut Off Of Cluster.jpg
  • 10 End Of Shaft Trued Up And Bevel Machined.jpg
  • 11 End Of Shaft Trued Up And Bevel Machined.jpg
  • 12 Test Fit Of New Gear.jpg
  • 13 Gear Welded On Shaft And Weld Turned Down To Use Steady Rest On.jpg
  • 14 End Of New Gear Machined To Correct Length.jpg

Attached Files


Edited by 29 Chev, July 12, 2017 - 05:20 PM.

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#2 Rainier OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2017 - 06:38 PM

That's really cool. Hope it works out for you.
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#3 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 09:43 AM

I remember you welded the gear teeth on the 15 tooth gear when you did the repair on the 1053 transmission and you had to hand grind the teeth. It is hard to get the teeth exactly like the originals.

 

I remember you talking about this replacement gear, hopefully it work out well for you, thanks again for documenting the work for us I will be tearing into the Bolens 1000 and the 1050 at some point and I am sure that gear cluster is going to need repair on those transmissions.

 

My fathers lathe does not have that support with it, he has a Logan lathe they still have an active web site for their old lathes I will check with them to see if they have this support.

 

Thanks again Stew for this timely post

 

Stephen


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#4 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 11:49 AM


My fathers lathe does not have that support with it, he has a Logan lathe they still have an active web site for their old lathes I will check with them to see if they have this support.

 

Thanks again Stew for this timely post

 

Stephen

 

You can broach a basic external gear like these on almost any lathe, mine is 114 years old and I can do it, it's just very, very, slow.

 

 


Edited by dtsh, July 13, 2017 - 11:52 AM.

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#5 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 04:30 PM

My fathers lathe does not have that support with it, he has a Logan lathe they still have an active web site for their old lathes I will check with them to see if they have this support.

 

 

My fathers lathe did not have the steady rest support either - I priced it back in the early 1990's from Atlas but could not justify spending what they were wanting for the solid one they offered so I ended up making the one you see out of some 1/2" steel and a few pieces of 1/4" thick steel - if you look closely you can see it is homemade - I looked at pictures of the one for a 12" lathe and scaled it down.  If you want more pictures of it let me know.  I have attached a picture of the solid one that Atlas offered for the 6" lathe and a pdf of the 6" lathe as it was offered by Simpson Sears in 1962 / 63 ( the lathe was sold by Sears but manufactured by The Atlas Press Company). 

 

You can broach a basic external gear like these on almost any lathe, mine is 114 years old and I can do it, it's just very, very, slow.

 

 

 

You are correct but it is a lot easier on a larger lathe - if you try and use the hand wheel to force the carriage to cut a spline or groove on a 6" Atlas lathe you will find that you don't have much power and you are straining the hand wheel gearing. I have cut an internal spline using the 6" to make a new coupler to go on the input shaft of the transmission on my one 1050 but made a lever and pivot set up to push the carriage. 
 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 14 Factory Steady Rest.jpg

Attached Files


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#6 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 04:45 PM

Decided to check the run out on the middle gear by setting the dial gauge on the top of each tooth rather than on the shaft and got some better results - it appears to have a run out on the actual gear tooth of .0025".  I also checked out the two end gears - the largest gear had a run out of .005" on the teeth and the new gear had a run out of .002" on the teeth.  I bored out the inside of the new gear portion to the same size as the rest of the shaft which should allow the input shaft to pass through it.  Then I bored the step at the end that holds the needle bearing and then I mounted the centre I have made to fit inside the shaft end and took one last cut on the weld to bring it down to the same size as the outside of the original shaft.  This finished the machining so I washed out and blew out the cuttings and took some pictures of the finished cluster beside the one I removed from my first 1050 about two years ago.  I replaced it with a cluster that I repaired with a new gear the same way as this and it has been working fine for the last two summers cutting grass.  I still have to install new needle bearings and then I can install it in the 1053 when I get time.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Checking Run Out On Middle Gear Teeth 0 Degrees.jpg
  • 2 Checking Run Out On Middle Gear Teeth 90 Degrees.jpg
  • 3 Checking Run Out On Middle Gear Teeth 180 Degrees.jpg
  • 4 Checking Run Out On Middle Gear Teeth 270 Degrees.jpg
  • 5 Starting To Bore New Gear For Needle Bearing.jpg
  • 6 Gear Bored For Needle Bearing.jpg
  • 7 Gear Supported In Homemade Steady Rest.jpg
  • 8 Cluster Cleaned Up And Ready For Bearings.jpg
  • 9 Cluster Cleaned Up And Ready For Bearings.jpg
  • 10 Cluster Cleaned Up And Ready For Bearings.jpg
  • 11 Cluster Cleaned Up And Ready For Bearings.jpg
  • 12 Repaired Cluster Beside One Removed From My 1050.jpg
  • 13 Repaired Cluster Beside One Removed From My 1050.jpg

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#7 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 04:48 PM

Thanks Stew, If you can post a good picture of the steady rest I will probably get some metal from the welding shop and make my own, I know I will need to rebuild those gears in the 1000 and 1050.

 

Stephen


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#8 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 04:52 PM

Thanks Stew, If you can post a good picture of the steady rest I will probably get some metal from the welding shop and make my own, I know I will need to rebuild those gears in the 1000 and 1050.

 

Stephen

 

Will try and take some pictures for you tomorrow - what size is your Logan metal lathe just out of curiosity?
 


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#9 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 05:06 PM

Nice to have a Mill & Lathe at your disposal...


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#10 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 05:18 PM

Nice to have a Mill & Lathe at your disposal...

 

The lathe is handy but I wish sometimes it was larger.  Don't have a mill but I did break down and purchase the milling attachment back in the late 1990's - if I remember correctly it was around $450.00 back then.



#11 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 05:26 PM

The Logan lathe that my dad has is a 14 inch lathe, and I checked their web site and the steady rest for the 14" lathe cost $503.00 so I don't see that happening.

 

I think I will be making my own.


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#12 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 06:16 PM

Great job Stew on rebuilding that gear cluster that should work well in the 1053.


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#13 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2017 - 01:24 PM

I forgot to add the two lubrication holes that I have seen in the later clusters - I believe the holes were added to aid in lubricating the needle bearings inside the cluster so I indexed and drilled two 3/16" diameter holes in the cluster shaft about 3/4" ahead of the middle gear.  I believe they located the holes in this location so the gear lube slung from the idler gear that drives the forward gear on the output shaft for reverse in the bottom of the transmission would get directed at the holes ( the lower idler gear is turning whenever the cluster is turning).  Cleaned up the cluster again and then I pressed in the two needle bearings - the ones I removed looked to be in good shape so I reused them.  I remembered that I had an extra input shaft that I got with the 1053 so I cleaned up and polished the shaft and then tried the cluster with the needle bearings installed on the shaft to see how things looked.  The cluster is a nice fit and appears to spin freely and true on the input shaft.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Two Three Sixteenths Holes Drilled For Gear Lube.jpg
  • 2 Two Three Sixteenths Holes Drilled For Gear Lube.jpg
  • 3 Two Three Sixteenths Holes Drilled For Gear Lube.jpg
  • 4 Spare Input Shaft.jpg
  • 5 Surface Rust.jpg
  • 6 Surface Rust.jpg
  • 7 Shaft Cleaned Up And Polished.jpg
  • 8 Shaft Cleaned Up And Polished.jpg
  • 9 Shaft Cleaned Up And Polished.jpg
  • 10 Shaft Cleaned Up And Polished.jpg
  • 11 Needle Bearings Pressed Into Cluster.jpg
  • 12 Needle Bearings Pressed Into Cluster.jpg
  • 13 Needle Bearings Pressed Into Cluster.jpg
  • 14 Needle Bearings Pressed Into Cluster.jpg
  • 15 Input Shaft Inside Cluster.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, July 14, 2017 - 02:21 PM.

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