Vapor Lock I Think
Posted July 09, 2017 - 09:33 PM
- Gtractor and FixItCharlie have said thanks
Posted July 09, 2017 - 10:13 PM
I can tell a funny story about wood conducting heat. About 2 months ago we had a fire in the fire pit [old rusted out tractor wheel] and had some storm debris in/around the rim burning it to dispose of it. One stick was over 4 foot long with the butt end out on the ground well outside the rim. The fire was all inside the rim. I had my foot laying on the chunk of wood, sitting in an old style metal yard chair. When the end IN the rim burnt away I grabbed the opposite end of the stick [2-3 inch dia - again 4 foot + from any part of the stick that was burning or even looked burnt] to move it into the fire and it was so hot it burned me - BAD. Now I know its close proximity to the fire will make it warm but I'm telling you this thing was hot enough it was frying the sap out of it. My foot had been on it for some time with just an old tennis shoe and with jeans my leg wasn't overly hot.
I know that stick was conducting heat!
Also one thing I'd like to add that wasn't mentioned before. Plastic clothespins don't work to cure vapor lock.
I don't know why plastic doesn't work any more than I know how the wood does work.
- FixItCharlie said thank you
Posted July 09, 2017 - 10:42 PM
I completely disassembled this engine 5 years ago. The only thing I found that needed was the aluminum push pin for the points. This is the cause for it not running right then. I had the block checked back then & all was in specs nothing needed as far as machine work. The first couple of years all it was used for was to push some snow. It get some use pushing some for some work that was needed to be done in Central Illinois. Where I will be moving after retirement. About this time I found the other tractor that had a good mower deck. I put the mower on this tractor & started using down there to mow with. Last year it started smoking more with the blue smoke. It also started having power problems. Last fall I was getting it ready for storage & found it did not have good fuel flow from the gas tank. The valve in the tank was the biggest problem with this. I replaced this with a brass street elbow & barbed fitting to an new inline valve. New Fuel filter & fuel line. The throttle rod & choke rods in the carburetor were lose I found a new carb so it got replaced. The whole time it was still having the problem with blue smoke. This spring when I got it out I found it would run OK but was smoking even worse so I brought back up here to work on it. I was finding oil on the outside of the head so my thought was head gasket. Head gasket looked OK but I question the flatness of the head. Using a piece of glass & emery cloth to get it flat. I replaced the head gasket & bolted back together. It still had the blue smoke but not as much oil on the outside of the head. At this time I started using the Manometer to help troubleshoot the problem. With what I seen with this I decided to pull the engine so I could check the piston & rings. This time I found ring gaps real close together on the top & second ring so thinking this could be the problem I lined the gaps on the opposite side of the piston & put it back together. Again no luck this time as it was still smoking as bad a before. This time I removed the head before I removed the engine & cranked it over using the starter. What I found was oil gushing out of the ring gaps. The oil ring was not removing the oil from the cylinder walls. Removing the engine I found the oil ring was free moving but would not have much pressure on the cylinder walls. I ordered new rings & the blue smoke is gone. As I put it back together this time I checked fuel flow from the gas tank with full flow out the 1/4 inch fuel line that is new. I readjusted the points & got timing right on the spot it needed to be. Made a new mount for the coil & replaced the spark plug wire. The spark plug was new it had been used for the last couple of tests when it was still blowing the blue smoke. Checked the spark with the tester & had a good blue spark. I ran the engine in the garage many times even at full throttle & a few time it actually ran for longer then an hour. Some mention about the valves, the stems looked clean with lots of carbon on the exhaust valve head. I did not remove the valves a this time & nothing showed that this engine needed a complete tear down & go to the machine shop. Running it in the garage it seemed to be good to go of course I never ran it with a load on it. No room in my little yard to even try anything like that. Over the holiday I take back down so that I could really use it. After putting the mower on it & start mowing that the problem appeared. So it seems like the engine needs a load on it to have this problem to happen. I do not know how much increase in temperature there is running these Kohler Engines under a load but that maybe part of the problem.
Posted July 09, 2017 - 10:47 PM
I think I know where some old wood clothes pins are I might have to try that when I get back to where the tractor is at.
- KennyP said thank you
Posted September 16, 2017 - 11:00 AM
I was able to use the tractor last week & was able to duplicate the problem. I checked the spark with my spark tester & is was the same as when the tractor is cooled off. I did find by removing the side cover on the carburetor side I was able to complete the mowing I was doing. The wooden clothes pin I had would not stay on the fuel line but later found one that will work if needed. Doing some research I find that there are fuel filters that are designed for engines with out fuel pumps. While doing some shopping for some other stuff I found one & will now try it. I have put it on the tractor & it seems to run the same as with the other filter but did not have the time to run it under load to see if this may have cured the problem.