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Honda GX690 into 1976 Sears ST12

honda gx690 sears st12 repower tecumseh hh120

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#46 rewilfert OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2018 - 06:53 PM

Today I was able to plumb up the mechanical oil pressure gauge.  I used -3 AN lines for this.  You can see the switch junction that I used to plumb in the Honda GX690 low oil pressure switch mounted under the battery tray.  I was very happy with the fittings and line routing.  I was concerned that the fittings coming out of the engine block would interfere with the oil filter removal, but that is not the case. 
 
All of the remaining electrical connectors and wire have been ordered and should be here within a week.  Then I should be able to finish up most of the electrical work on the tractor.

39750611011_0781261025_c.jpgUntitled by rewilfert, on Flickr

25878910648_7ca35e1ebb_c.jpgUntitled by rewilfert, on Flickr

24880978707_839d483614_c.jpgUntitled by rewilfert, on Flickr
 


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#47 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2018 - 07:06 PM

Nice looking job on that!


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#48 rewilfert OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 03:52 PM

I finished up most of the wiring today.  Still have to wire in the head and tail lights.  I used mostly marine grade wiring components for durability.  Since there is so much corrosion on the frame, I decided to use a common ground point for reliability instead of using chassis ground.

 

The red low oil pressure light turns on/off around 13 PSI.  The blue light indicates when the lighting is selected ON.  The gauges light up, it is hard to see in the picture.  With the engine running at idle, the oil pressure is right at 40 PSI and the voltmeter indicates slightly less than 15 V.

 

40105731202_e1bd24b9d2_z.jpgUntitled by rewilfert, on Flickr

28358057749_012a89d61e_z.jpgUntitled by rewilfert, on Flickr

26265025458_847a5d6075_z.jpgUntitled by rewilfert, on Flickr


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#49 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 05:19 PM

Nice wiring job! Looks sweet!


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#50 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 06:34 PM

Very nice job the wiring and plumbing really is nice looks like your getting it done


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#51 rewilfert OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2018 - 08:08 PM

I finished all the wiring except for the headlights.  I'll get to them once the bodywork is reinstalled.
 
I decided to do a few other maintenance items while the tractor was going back together.  The two idler pulleys for the transmission belt and pivot bushing for the clutch mechanism needed to be replaced.
 
I searched around for the clutch pivot bushing and found one that would work at McMaster-Carr.  The part number is 6391K199.  The bronze bushing measures 11/16" OD, 1/2" ID and 1" long.  I made a simple puller mechanism out of a bolt, washers and spacers.  It came out without any issue and the new one slid right back in.

40176375531_22e66ac03e_c.jpg2018-02-09 12.08.03 by rewilfert, on Flickr

39277878155_0fa04a3b4c_c.jpg2018-02-09 12.11.21 by rewilfert, on Flickr

40176376841_ea03e7402e_c.jpg2018-02-09 12.20.04 by rewilfert, on Flickr

40176374451_fc580bd23d_c.jpg2018-02-09 12.22.43 by rewilfert, on Flickr

 
I searched around and found pulleys that matched the original idler pulleys from a company called Phoenix Pulleys Bearings & Belts.

http://shop.phoenix-mfg.com/

 

The flat idler pulley is part number 1185235 and the V pulley is part number 1185308.  My local Tractor Supply store had both of these in stock.

28395886289_0cd30458d0_c.jpg2018-02-09 12.23.28 by rewilfert, on Flickr

The original pulleys had bushings pressed into their bores. I used a shop press to remove them and then pressed them into the new pulleys.

28395886519_c05c4a825d_c.jpg2018-02-09 12.42.26 by rewilfert, on Flickr

28395887049_46bfb9f919_c.jpg2018-02-09 13.18.35 by rewilfert, on Flickr

I then reinstalled everything and adjusted the belt. The original belt works fine with the new engine.

28395889349_35d20610ea_c.jpg2018-02-09 14.02.45 by rewilfert, on Flickr

The next thing to do is install the original pulley cover on the new engine.  The bracket from the HH120 should bolt right on.

 

I ran the tractor around the block today.  Everything worked fine, but the throttle lever still does not have enough friction to hold full throttle.  The governor springs on the GX690 are pretty strong.  I need to work on that a bit.


Edited by rewilfert, February 09, 2018 - 08:09 PM.

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#52 rewilfert OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2018 - 08:17 PM

I installed the original engine pulley cover today.  It was a straight bolt on installation, no modifications required.  The engine even had the correct sized SAE threaded holes.

25322711797_26347cf95c_c.jpg2018-02-10 17.18.58 by rewilfert, on Flickr

26321540448_bc4f887eb9_c.jpg2018-02-10 17.21.02 by rewilfert, on Flickr


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#53 rewilfert OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2018 - 03:59 PM

Today I made an elbow for the muffler that will divert the exhaust outside of the bodywork once it is reinstalled.  It is made from a mandrel bent Vibrant Performance stainless 1.5" OD tube, part number 13032.  It was a tight slip fit over the muffler outlet.  I used a #4 sheet metal screw to keep it from rotating.

39519266994_307b3dcdf0_c.jpgUntitled by rewilfert, on Flickr


Edited by rewilfert, February 12, 2018 - 03:59 PM.

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#54 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2018 - 04:41 PM

Looks good!



#55 rewilfert OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2018 - 08:33 PM

I worked on the steering this week.  Everything was out of adjustment and there were worn parts that needed to be replaced.  I pulled everything apart and found that the spindle bushings in the front axle beam were badly worn.  I punched the old ones out and installed new ones. There are 4 bronze bushings, McMaster-Carr part number 6391K639.  The size was 0.75" ID, 0.875" OD and 0.875" Long.  There is one bushing installed on each open end of the front axle beam tubes.

39699763354_ccc37ed15f_c.jpg2018-02-16 11.51.04 by rewilfert, on Flickr

I installed new front wheels and tires. I used Carlisle 16x6.5-8 ribbed tires mounted on new 8x5-3/8 steel wheels, both sourced from Miller Tire. The new wheels had ball bearings instead of bronze bushings which should stop the wear on the spindles.  I measured about 0.01" wear on the bottom side of the spindle axles.  The bronze bushings in the original wheels had polished the axles to a mirror finish. The hubs of the new wheels had a larger OD compared to the original wheels so I had to cut the grease cups off the spindles to get them to fit.  The new wheels are a bit wider than the originals (~4"), so the tire is a bit flatter across the tread.

39699670834_38eb860933_c.jpg2018-02-19 17.12.23 by rewilfert, on Flickr

25538548307_ba31f429b7_c.jpg2018-02-19 17.11.29 by rewilfert, on Flickr

25538548867_ae9c30ae22_c.jpg2018-02-20 21.54.02 by rewilfert, on Flickr

I installed all new tie rods and rod ends. I found rod ends that were slightly heavier duty than the originals. The originals had 1/2" rods with 3/8" studs coming out of the tie rod ends. The new tie rod ends had 1/2" studs, so I had to drill everything to fit.  After that was done, I was able to properly center the steering wheel and set the alignment.

25538549657_8d8b455bf6_c.jpg2018-02-20 21.55.46 by rewilfert, on Flickr

39699670324_927b06f204_c.jpg2018-02-20 21.56.15 by rewilfert, on Flickr

I made a new linkage that goes from the clutch pedal shaft up to the bracket that holds the clutch idler pulley. This originally had a simple 3/8" bent rod, but the rod and the holes in the bracketry that it would pivot in were getting badly worn. I made a new linkage using rod ends. This way all the wear will be in the rod end and not the bracketry.

39699671354_7b69c8d01b_c.jpg2018-02-20 21.55.12 by rewilfert, on Flickr


Edited by rewilfert, February 21, 2018 - 08:37 PM.

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#56 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2018 - 07:14 AM

Wow! Good fixes going on there! Should last a long time!


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#57 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2018 - 07:30 AM

I agree ! Those look to be top notch fixes and rework ! 



#58 rewilfert OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2018 - 04:00 PM

Thanks! I took it for a spin around the neighborhood today and I’m just really impressed how well it all works. With the worn parts replaced and everything adjusted properly, it just operates so smooth. No issues at all. I’m working on sourcing new rear wheels and tires now.

I need to get the mower deck rebuilt next. Spring appears to be just around the corner from the recent weather pattern and the weeds and grass are really starting to sprout up. Won’t be long before I have to start cutting again!
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#59 John Arsenault ONLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2018 - 09:20 AM

I love everything you have done, I mean everything. This is such a great upgrade to a Sears Suburban. That tractor is tight! You will be doing this for a long time now.

 

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#60 rewilfert OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2018 - 07:11 PM

Thank you!  I haven't done anything else to the tractor since my last update.  I've now moved on to rebuilding the mower deck.  That is turning into a much bigger project than I had anticipated.  I can put the bodywork back on the tractor once the mower deck is back under it.  Grass cutting season is coming up fast and I need to get this thing ready for service!







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: honda gx690, sears st12, repower, tecumseh hh120

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