With the rims dropped off at the powder coating shop today, I focused on getting the torsion spring installed on the rear transmission brake rod. It wasn't moving freely when moved up and down so I took it off and discovered the rear end of the rod was bent. A few minutes with it chucked up in the lathe and I had it straightened out by pressing down on the high spot. When It was installed again with the spring in place it moved freely again. Originally I thought it was just from the new paint binding it up. So I'm glad I pulled it out and checked it. BTW, I polished up the spring and added a coat of clear on it. Just for a bit of bling!
With that done I worked on the steering shaft and gears. But as I mentioned previously, I decided to drill and add grease fittings to the two sections of the gears so they could be greased in the future to keep them from binding together with rust. I had a set of fittings that you just need to drill an 11/64" hole in the metal, then use the tool to hammer in the fitting. I think I got the kit at ORelliys Auto parts. They work really well.
With the steering gear assembled and the clutch pedal installed I set out to adjust it per the FSM. But when I got the pedal at 60 degrees I couldn't get the free play down to 1/2". It turns out I missed that the hole in the bracket that the clutch fork bolted to was worn out to an oval. So I need to weld it up and tighten the hole as well as replacing the bolt that's worn on the non threaded section.
Just as a change of pace I put the steering wheel in the glass bead cabinet and blasted off all the old white paint so I could repair the cracks. For years of motorcycle repair on hard plastics like fairings and side covers, I've been using a product made by PlastiFix. It's a powder that's activated and hardened with a liquid hardener. It bonds to the old plastic and hardens to the same consistency. I have never had it fail me with and hard plastic repairs no matter how thick it is or what the part was.The bond to the original plastic is very strong and will not separate or crack again.
Using a small grinding bur, I grind out the crack and V it out. Then I put a thin film of the liquid catalyst in the crack followed by a layer of the powder, followed up with more liquid. I repeat this till I have enough filler in the area so when it cures I can sand it down to shape. I apologize for some of the blurry pics, but my left eye is acting up again and I can't see well through my old glasses through the camera lens. When I can see well enough again I'll finish filling all the cracks and get them sanded down to shape.
Tomorrow I have to do the AC system replacement in my friends car. So I probably won't work on this for a couple days at least. See you with an update when I return to it. Thanks for following.