Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

1050 restoration, paying the tractor back!


  • Please log in to reply
161 replies to this topic

#91 wilberj ONLINE  

wilberj
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 51
  • 4,840 Thanks
  • 5,514 posts
  • Location: Michigan

Posted August 06, 2017 - 12:57 PM

Thanks guys, brown it is then.

 

And since I've already ordered the spring from Brian, I'll be adding that on. My steering wheel is white, and had no signs of it ever being there either. Since they felt the need to do the upgrade at Bolens there had to be a good reason for it. So would all those clues make this an early 67 model?

 

Looking at Kevin's pictures, he painted the rear wheel weights red. Mine are white, which I like better. Which is correct.

attachicon.gifIMAG0025.JPG

 

Red would be correct

 

 

White is the correct color for his 1050. Red was not used till the early 70s.  


  • LRCXed said thank you

#92 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

blackjackjakexxix

    Blackjackjakexxix

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2194
  • 2,778 Thanks
  • 2,027 posts
  • Location: Pulaski,Pa 16143

Posted August 06, 2017 - 02:38 PM

Ok,I stand corrected, would have thought red rims,red weights,hmmm,Thanks

Edited by blackjackjakexxix, August 06, 2017 - 07:46 PM.

  • LRCXed said thank you

#93 LRCXed OFFLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted August 06, 2017 - 03:49 PM

Thank you Wilberj for clarifying it should be white. I really like that combo.

 

Next up for today was to get the tires off the rims. Fronts were a lot easier than the rears. I was pleasantly surprised that the paint inside the rear rims were in perfect condition and still had a shine to it. The color looks to be more of an orange than red though. Someone in the past had painted the outside of the rims with rattle can red that was darker, but I'm going to keep the paint on the one rear rim and go to the paint shop tomorrow and see how close we can come to the color. If I get it close I'll give you all the code #. But I may stop at the powder coating shop and see if he has a color close to it too. It would be nice to have a tougher finish on the rims. I have the front rims blasted and ready either way I go. I still need to blast the outside of the rears which I'll work on as the day goes on.

One thing I found when I pull the bearings out of the front rims was that there had never been any grease added to them through the grease fittings. I'm guilty of that too, but nobody before I got it ever saw fit to grease them. Or anything else I would imagine. It's good what a guy can learn when you do a full restoration like this. I'm learning as I go along. But just think, it's lasted 50 years without much maintenance!

 

DSC_0264.JPG DSC_0272.JPG DSC_0271.JPG

 

After I got this 1050 I had put new tires on it all the way around. The rear tires held up very well and never leaked air and are not cracking at all. But the fronts always went flat after a few days which was frustrating while I was working my yards. With the tires flat and sitting for months on end they ended up cracking. When I pulled the tires to blast the rims I went to cut off the valve stems, but when I pried them sideways they just broke off. They were so dried out that I imagine that's where they were leaking air the whole time. Now the fun will be trying to find new stems with such a small diameter. If I can't find them I'll need to drill them bigger and use a larger diameter stems.

 

I need to order new front tires now. Looking on eBay I found tires that match the rear tire tread pattern. I had 16 x 6.50 - 8 2 ply on it, which matched what I took off years ago. These are what I found. Are they acceptable? http://www.ebay.com/...353.m1438.l2649

 

Here's what I had on before.

DSC_0262.JPG DSC_0261.JPG

 

OK, off to blast the rear rims. Looking forward to replies.

 


  • wilberj and blackjackjakexxix have said thanks

#94 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

blackjackjakexxix

    Blackjackjakexxix

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2194
  • 2,778 Thanks
  • 2,027 posts
  • Location: Pulaski,Pa 16143

Posted August 06, 2017 - 08:00 PM

Now you really got me thinking,I have been dabbling with the Bolens stuff over 15 years now and have had a couple hundred of the tube frames,I never got any 1050's in as a runners or non runners with white weights,any I ever saw had red weights,red rims,red weights,but not that it really matters,it all in what you happy with,not saying I'm not wrong on this one

Edited by blackjackjakexxix, August 06, 2017 - 08:05 PM.

  • LRCXed said thank you

#95 LRCXed OFFLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted August 06, 2017 - 08:37 PM

If it helps any, here's pictures of the weights front and back. The back side shows plenty of rust and no evidence of any red paint. If someone in the past had painted them white, I would think they wouldn't have done a better job and done the back side also.

 

DSC_0279.JPG DSC_0280.JPG


  • wilberj and blackjackjakexxix have said thanks

#96 wilberj ONLINE  

wilberj
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 51
  • 4,840 Thanks
  • 5,514 posts
  • Location: Michigan

Posted August 06, 2017 - 08:46 PM

If it helps any, here's pictures of the weights front and back. The back side shows plenty of rust and no evidence of any red paint. If someone in the past had painted them white, I would think they wouldn't have done a better job and done the back side also.

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0279.JPGattachicon.gifDSC_0280.JPG

 

Now you really got me thinking,I have been dabbling with the Bolens stuff over 15 years now and have had a couple hundred of the tube frames,I never got any 1050's in as a runners or non runners with white weights,any I ever saw had red weights,red rims,red weights,but not that it really matters,it all in what you happy with,not saying I'm not wrong on this one

 

 

White was used in the 60s red in the early 70s then white came back in the mid 70s. Yellow was used in the 50 and 40s. Any bolens tractor from the 60s I have ever seen had white weights.  All my 60s tube frames had white weights on them.    Every 60s bolens tractor I seen with red weights were ether repaints or were added later by a owner.   

 

Bolens 1000 may know more.  


  • logmillingman and LRCXed have said thanks

#97 wilberj ONLINE  

wilberj
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 51
  • 4,840 Thanks
  • 5,514 posts
  • Location: Michigan

Posted August 06, 2017 - 08:48 PM

On a side note I have seen mid 50s weights that were painted red with yellow under the red.  Those were on a 1886 I have.  


  • Bolens 1000, logmillingman and LRCXed have said thanks

#98 fonz3482 ONLINE  

fonz3482

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 84
  • 1,184 Thanks
  • 743 posts
  • Location: Eden, New York

Posted August 07, 2017 - 07:55 AM

My 1050's have white weights but I'm not saying that is correct but they came on it with both tractors.

Attached Thumbnails

  • DB16D76C-3F95-4354-B880-5F946FBCDB9B.JPG

  • Bolens 1000, blackjackjakexxix, logmillingman and 1 other said thanks

#99 LRCXed OFFLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted August 07, 2017 - 07:45 PM

With the info on the white weights, now I'm going to need to polish up part of the bodywork and the weights to see if they used the same off white. They both look pretty close though. The white painting will be the last thing I do before the motor detail and servicing.

 

I started today doing research on the front tires. Nobody local had what I wanted, so I ordered the set from eBay I listed above.

Then I set out to get all 4 rims finished up. One of the front and rear rims had mild rust pits that needed attention. Probably from sitting deep in mud for a few years on that side. So I used a side angle die grinder with 120 grit to grind smooth as much as I dared. Followed with 220 and then sanding them down with 320 before I put them back in to glass bead them again for a uniform surface. After that I took them to the local powder coating shop as well as the paint supply store to see what they could do to match the section of color I had left on one rim. To my surprise the powder coating shop had a color the was nearly spot on, but a tiny bit more red. He wanted $100 to do all four rims. The paint supply shop had colors to match also, but for just the quart of paint, (no thinners or hardeners,) was $90. So my decision was made! I didn't have to do anything more than get them ready and the powder coating shop did the rest with a MUCH tougher finish than painting them. A no brainier if you ask me. I'll drop them off tomorrow and should have them back by Friday at the latest. Just about the time the front tires should be here.

 

DSC_0282.JPG DSC_0284.JPG

 

This square area is covering the original paint on the rear rim. The powder coating shop gave me a section of high heat resistant tape so I could retain a section and see how close it matches when they're done. It'll be interesting to say the least.

Oh, the tape is green. So that's why it doesn't look like red/orange in the picture.

 

DSC_0285.JPG

 

I did get the springs and shift knobs in the mail today from Brian and Rick. So I'll be working with those tomorrow. But on Wednesday I have a car coming in to repair and replace the AC system. So it may be a few days before much gets done after tomorrow.


  • Bolens 1000, fonz3482, blackjackjakexxix and 3 others have said thanks

#100 LRCXed OFFLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted August 08, 2017 - 08:49 PM

With the rims dropped off at the powder coating shop today, I focused on getting the torsion spring installed on the rear transmission brake rod. It wasn't moving freely when moved up and down so I took it off and discovered the rear end of the rod was bent. A few minutes with it chucked up in the lathe and I had it straightened out by pressing down on the high spot. When It was installed again with the spring in place it moved freely again. Originally I thought it was just from the new paint binding it up. So I'm glad I pulled it out and checked it. BTW, I polished up the spring and added a coat of clear on it. Just for a bit of bling!

DSC_0299.JPG

 

With that done I worked on the steering shaft and gears. But as I mentioned previously, I decided to drill and add grease fittings to the two sections of the gears so they could be greased in the future to keep them from binding together with rust. I had a set of fittings that you just need to drill an 11/64" hole in the metal, then use the tool to hammer in the fitting. I think I got the kit at ORelliys Auto parts. They work really well.

DSC_0300.JPG DSC_0301.JPG

 

With the steering gear assembled and the clutch pedal installed I set out to adjust it per the FSM. But when I got the pedal at 60 degrees I couldn't get the free play down to 1/2". It turns out I missed that the hole in the bracket that the clutch fork bolted to was worn out to an oval. So I need to weld it up and tighten the hole as well as replacing the bolt that's worn on the non threaded section.

DSC_0302.JPG

 

Just as a change of pace I put the steering wheel in the glass bead cabinet and blasted off all the old white paint so I could repair the cracks. For years of motorcycle repair on hard plastics like fairings and side covers, I've been using a product made by PlastiFix. It's a powder that's activated and hardened with a liquid hardener. It bonds to the old plastic and hardens to the same consistency. I have never had it fail me with and hard plastic repairs no matter how thick it is or what the part was.The bond to the original plastic is very strong and will not separate or crack again.

Using a small grinding bur, I grind out the crack and V it out. Then I put a thin film of the liquid catalyst in the crack followed by a layer of the powder, followed up with more liquid. I repeat this till I have enough filler in the area so when it cures I can sand it down to shape. I apologize for some of the blurry pics, but my left eye is acting up again and I can't see well through my old glasses through the camera lens. When I can see well enough again I'll finish filling all the cracks and get them sanded down to shape.

DSC_0286.JPG DSC_0287.JPG DSC_0290.JPG DSC_0291.JPG DSC_0295.JPG DSC_0293.JPG

 

Tomorrow I have to do the AC system replacement in my friends car. So I probably won't work on this for a couple days at least. See you with an update when I return to it. Thanks for following.


  • Bolens 1000, fonz3482, blackjackjakexxix and 2 others have said thanks

#101 LRCXed OFFLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted August 12, 2017 - 01:01 PM

OK, my friends car is done and I got a couple things done on the project. For the slop in the clutch fork bracket I made a steel sleeve that was as wide as the space in the fork and welded it into the bracket. This should keep the bolt from rocking and keep it from wearing out. I touched up the bracket with some brown paint instead of painting it all again. With that fixed I was able to get the adjustments for the clutch/brake assembly done and got the 1/2" free play. All I have left is to adjust the rear brake and the steering pinion gear. And here's the great set of used shift knobs I got from Rick. Very nice Rick, thank you.

 

DSC_0305.JPG DSC_0306.JPG DSC_0307.JPG DSC_0308.JPG

 

I also got the rims back from powder coating. The guy did a great job. He put it on a little heavier than usual so it would flow over the small rust pits. They now look brand new and shinny again. I also had the locker knob coated too. I'm still waiting for my front tires to come in the mail, but I did get the rear tires mounted after putting new valve stems in. I also bought a 10 pack of new grease fittings and changed out all the old ones.

 

DSC_0311.JPG DSC_0312.JPG DSC_0314.JPG

 

Today I'm going to get the adjustments finished up, put the steps on and finish up as much as I can. The front tires should be here Monday, so I'm hoping to have it ready to put all 4 on again.

 

BTW, what was the type of gear lube I need to get for the trany? And will 2 quarts do it?


  • blackjackjakexxix, TomLGT195, Austen and 2 others have said thanks

#102 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,105 Thanks
  • 2,320 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted August 12, 2017 - 03:39 PM

 

BTW, what was the type of gear lube I need to get for the trany? And will 2 quarts do it?

 

Attached is the lubrication information from the Tube Frame Service Manual - according to it the transmission should hold 2-1/2 quarts.

 

I would recommend a 80W90 GL-1 gear lube.  I would try and avoid using the current GL-4 or GL-5 rated gear lubes as most of them contain sulphur-phosphorus additives which can damage bronze materials under certain conditions.      
 

Attached Files


  • blackjackjakexxix, logmillingman and LRCXed have said thanks

#103 LRCXed OFFLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted August 12, 2017 - 08:12 PM

Thank you Chev. I've called a couple stores and haven't found anything except GL-5 so far. But I'm not going to fill the trany till I get the wheels on it and leveled out anyway. Hope to find a brand after that at least.

 

When I started putting the steering rod in I discovered the holes were worn out there too. So I made steel bushings and pressed them into the two locations so the steering was tightened up again. I made the inserts as tight as I could and had to press them in with a clamp so they're as tight as possible in the arms.

DSC_0315.JPG DSC_0316.JPG DSC_0317.JPG DSC_0318.JPG

 

Finished up with the steering pinion adjustment followed up by the rear trany brake adjusting. I followed the FSM for it, but I'm needing to ask if I'm correct with what I think I followed properly. With all the adjustments done, when I push down on the clutch it stops at about an inch from the stop bracket. As per instructions, just as the main clutch/brake pad is contacted I have the rear trany brake pad touching the drum. But the petal stops as seen in the picture. I had to use a round wooden bar to pull it down and get far enough away for the camera to focus. Is this correct? I know things weren't set properly before I took it all apart, but the petal used to hit the stop bracket. I hope I'm right with it now.

DSC_0322.JPG DSC_0323.JPG

 

I bolted up the steps and set everything else up the best I could. But I want to fill the trany with oil before I bolt the top plate on so I can be sure all the air is out and the oil is at the proper level. I can't do that till all four tires are on it and sitting at level. So that'll wait till next week. This is where it sits for now.

DSC_0319.JPG DSC_0321.JPG


Edited by LRCXed, August 12, 2017 - 08:17 PM.

  • Bolens 1000, Alc, blackjackjakexxix and 4 others have said thanks

#104 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

blackjackjakexxix

    Blackjackjakexxix

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2194
  • 2,778 Thanks
  • 2,027 posts
  • Location: Pulaski,Pa 16143

Posted August 13, 2017 - 08:06 PM

Really looking good,nice job on the repairs
  • LRCXed said thank you

#105 LRCXed OFFLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted August 14, 2017 - 02:45 PM

Thank you Rick. I thought it would be much better than welding them up and drilling again since it was all painted already.

 

Did everyone miss the question I asked if my petal adjustment is correct? I really need to know if I'm OK where it's at.

 

I'm hoping to be adding pictures of all four tires on today whenever UPS gets here. My buddy helped me this morning lifting the back end up to mount the rear tires already. But while I wait for the tires I'm spending what will be a few hours of sanding and shaping the repaired cracks on the steering wheel.


  • blackjackjakexxix said thank you




Top