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1050 restoration, paying the tractor back!


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#76 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2017 - 05:28 PM

Man that Brown looks awesome!! A few of my machines have the original color still on them but they don't shine like that!

 

I'm liking it too. Like I said a few posts back, I didn't really like the thought of painting it the original brown since the tractor was so faded out. But with new paint on it.......... well!


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#77 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2017 - 04:15 PM

Yesterday I started working on assembling components and making the new steering shaft and the front axle pin. Cutting sections of the new 5/8" rod to length first. Then, using the old shafts I lined up the old shaft over the new section in the vice to transfer the exact centers of each hole using a set of transfer punches through the old holes. Just tapped on it with a hammer set a small divot to start the drill bit in. The transfer punch set also works very well when driving out the roll pins. Here's the cheap set I use from Harbor freight tools. They also tell you which sized drill bit to use. https://www.harborfr...h-set-3577.html

Then I used the proper sized drill bit, centered the shaft on a V block and drilled the new pin holes on the drill press. The pin for the front axle was a little off center from the front and back holes. But that's not critical on that pin. The nice part is that the pins are new and will fit much better than the old ones with the worn out section. No more slop!

 

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Then I set out to put the clutch brake assembly together. It was fun fitting all the pieces together like a puzzle. But referring to my pictures it went pretty well. I forgot to pick up 5/16" flat and lock washers, so I'll need to go back and get those before final assembly begins.

 

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The last thing I've done was to put some of the front axle components together. With everything all greased up it's as close as I can get it for now till it's pinned into place after the frame is put together.

 

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More updates as the days go by and progress is made. But it's nice to finally see some of it together.

 


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#78 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2017 - 08:04 AM

The spring that is hooked to the cotter key to tension the drive belt idler reminds me of an automotive drum brake return spring (it was probably replaced sometime over its lifetime) - just an observation - as long as it provides tension for the belts it should work fine.

 

Looking really good and making me jealous as my 1050's are not painted the metallic brown.  Going to look really sharp when you get it finished and be a "like new" tractor. 


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#79 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2017 - 12:36 PM

I didn't know that wasn't the stock spring. Guess I'll add that to the next order just to return it to OEM also.

 

Thanks for the compliment. When I do a restoration of any kind I try to do it like it says in my signature line below. The problem I'm going to have when it's done is that I don't have anyplace to store it inside. It'll have to sit under the covered patio outside.


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#80 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2017 - 05:09 PM

Today I got the steering column and the top cover plate assembled. Those were the last 2 components I needed finished so I could start assembly of the frame. All the new bushings, washers, roll pins etc. were put in and greased up. I was tempted to add the decals on the plate, but decided against it so I didn't scratch them up during the rest of the assembly.

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With all these components assembled I just couldn't resist putting some of it together. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it all went together now that everything was clean and prepped as well as having all new nuts and bolts. I used a thread tap and cleaned out every thread hole and used anti seize on all the bolts that went into castings. I decided to put the front axle in the carrier before putting the frame tubes in. I figured it would be easier to do it now with everything upside down than trying to drive the roll pin in from under it after assembly.

With the tubes set loosely to the front and back, I put the center mount plate on and tightened them up first so the tubes were at the correct angle when I tightened them up. Then I tightened up the rear clamps and the front mounting. And yes, I made sure the right side tube was butted up against the roll pin in the trans axle. Then just for the fun of it I set the top cover on and set a few bolts in it to make sure the transmission shifted properly. It shifted fine in all gears happily. Now, if I can ever find a couple shift knobs the levers will be complete.

 

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Well, that's going to be it for a while. I have to wait till the new matched belt sets get here before I put the clutch/brake assembly in. But I'm going to spend some time with my son for a week or so. Were going to go dirt bike riding and take the boat out, (when the temps are under 105).

Hope your enjoying this build as much as I am.


Edited by LRCXed, August 02, 2017 - 05:11 PM.

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#81 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2017 - 05:30 PM

Looks like its really coming together !


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#82 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2017 - 07:18 PM

. Now, if I can ever find a couple shift knobs the levers will be complete.

 

 

This article may help you with making a shifter knob if you feel up to the challenge - http://gardentractor...ifter-knob-r207 .

 

It deals with repairing a broken one with JB weld which I painted red after I had it repaired but gives a few good pictures of what they looked like originally - if you need exact sizes I can measure one of mine.  I made one out of steel once by machining the steel to the correct shape in the lathe and then dipping it a few times in a can of red colorgard ( rubberized coating) - just another suggestion if you do not find any used knobs and be careful if you try and remove one from a lever as I have found the plastic can be very brittle after 45 plus years.  You could also get some plastic stock and machine it in the lathe to the correct shape and then paint it.


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#83 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2017 - 07:24 PM

 

 

The problem I'm going to have when it's done is that I don't have anyplace to store it inside. It'll have to sit under the covered patio outside.

Might be time to think about a Bolens storage facility as they can become addictive and tend to accumulate sometimes if you get infected with the "Bolens Bug" - http://gardentractor...-bug/?hl=bolens bug .   :D


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#84 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2017 - 08:20 PM

Chev, I really hope this doesn't turn into any kind of addiction to collecting these! I'm already dealing with that problem for motorcycles. However, I may end up looking for a mower attachment when this is all finished. But we'll cross that bridge after the tractor, tiller and front plow is all restored.

 

The shift knobs that are missing have been taken care of thanks to Rick, blackjackjakexxix. He had a pair of used ones that look good and are on the way to me. Thank you Rick.

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#85 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2017 - 01:46 PM

Not a lot done in the last few days, but I did get the clutch assembly installed and adjusted the brake disc gap. The FSM said it should be 3/16". I found a stir stick that was exactly that thickness and cut it in half and slide it on each side so that the brake plate would be squared to the surface as I pushed it forward and tightened it in place.

 

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Then I installed the steering gear bushings in hopes to get all that assembled, but looking through Ricks 1053 post for a picture of where the clutch pedal stop is bolted, I noticed that my transmission brake rod was missing the torsion spring at the rear. It wasn't there when I pulled things apart. So I'm now waiting for that to show up before I can finish assembly and adjustments. Pulling that rod out will be easier without the steering shaft in the way.

 

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Just to check if there were any other issues I set the steering column in place without bolting it in. That's when I noticed I had put the PTO rod in 180 degrees out. That one was easy to fix by just rotating it and moving the springs position on the roll pins.

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Next I may work on getting the rims cleaned up and painted. But sometime in the near future it'll be time to start working on cleaning up and servicing the motor. But I have a question. Were the motors painted Brown like the rest of it? Or were they Black? I've seen examples both ways. My motor is currently painted gray except for a few parts like the flywheel cover, air cleaner and the tank. I suspect that it had been rebuilt in it's past and they sprayed it gray at that time.

 

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#86 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2017 - 03:09 PM

 

Then I installed the steering gear bushings in hopes to get all that assembled, but looking through Ricks 1053 post for a picture of where the clutch pedal stop is bolted, I noticed that my transmission brake rod was missing the torsion spring at the rear. It wasn't there when I pulled things apart. So I'm now waiting for that to show up before I can finish assembly and adjustments. Pulling that rod out will be easier without the steering shaft in the way.

 

 

 

 

I have a question. Were the motors painted Brown like the rest of it? Or were they Black? I've seen examples both ways. My motor is currently painted gray except for a few parts like the flywheel cover, air cleaner and the tank. I suspect that it had been rebuilt in it's past and they sprayed it gray at that time.

 

 

 

I believe that some of the earlier versions of the 1050 192-01 and 192-02 with the white steering wheel did not have the rear spring and that it was added at some point during the production run as my first 1050 has the white steering wheel and did not have that spring either and showed no evidence of it ever being there if memory serves me correctly. Won't hurt to add it as they used it on the later 1050's and 1053 models.

 

The engine in my first 1050 appeared to have been painted brown and under the spec plate and other areas the paint appeared to be the original orange.  I believe they masked the spec plate at the factory and in a lot of pictures it appears they did not mask it squarely on the corners the way most people would but rather on a 45 degree around the screw areas.  If you look at the picture of my 1053 thread you can see what the colours looked like.  These are just my findings and beliefs and others may correct me.  If you check with Wrenchinonit he has an original 1050 that looks like it just left the factory - if you search his posts you should see pictures of it.
 


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#87 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2017 - 03:19 PM

Here are the links to Kevin's 1050 - http://gardentractor...1050-dress-up/ 

 

http://gardentractor...re-bought-this/  

 

 


Edited by 29 Chev, August 05, 2017 - 04:03 PM.

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#88 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2017 - 04:19 PM

All the original motors that were in the 1050's were painted the cordovan brown , you can tell the grey paint is not from a factory as that rear heat shield has some grey as well and that shield was a Bolens only part and was not a wisconsin part.


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#89 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2017 - 04:48 PM

Thanks guys, brown it is then.

 

And since I've already ordered the spring from Brian, I'll be adding that on. My steering wheel is white, and had no signs of it ever being there either. Since they felt the need to do the upgrade at Bolens there had to be a good reason for it. So would all those clues make this an early 67 model?

 

Looking at Kevin's pictures, he painted the rear wheel weights red. Mine are white, which I like better. Which is correct.

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Edited by LRCXed, August 05, 2017 - 06:35 PM.

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#90 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2017 - 12:25 PM

Red would be correct




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