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1050 restoration, paying the tractor back!


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#61 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2017 - 03:59 PM

Always remember,any time you using automotive type paints,light coats with flash time gives the best results
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#62 LRCXed ONLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2017 - 04:35 PM

I like the way you removed the steering shaft - may try that if I have to take another one apart. 

 

Sorry to hear about the problem with your eye - hope it is nothing serious.  As I get older the thoughts of loosing sight, hearing or my mind (maybe I already have) make me think how lucky I have been over the years considering what I have done in the shop and make me doubly vigilant about wearing safety glasses and wearing eye protection.  Since I was about eighteen I have always worn glasses to see things clearly until about ten years ago when I started wearing bifocals (the bottom part of the lense is just clear glass).  Since then I usually take my glasses off and put on safety glasses when I am in the shop as the regular glasses do nothing for me working on things close up.   Years ago I had a lense in my eyeglasses shattered when something slipped and flew up and broke the lense.  I was stubborn and flushed it out with water figuring all would be good.  Kept me awake that night ( Saturday ) and finally the next morning I went to the doctor.  Not much fun getting shattered glass cleaned out of your eye on a Sunday at the emergency room but at least I got to learn from my mistake and still have vison in both eyes. 

 

It was after I studied your method of pulling the shaft out that I came up with the way I did it. After cleaning the rust out I noticed the area around it to press/hammer on. BTW, the large socket was out of a set with 1" drive ratchet opening. It slide right over the main shaft.

 

It turns out I cut the very center of the eye some how. And I think I know how. I wear contacts and always have my reading glasses on to do close up work. While I was doing all the glass bead blasting in this heat, I end up sweating and wipe my head with the cuff of the glove without pulling my hand all the way out. That would be fine if there wasn't a large hole worn in one of the fingers. It always lets glass beads in there and all over my hand. When I'm done I have a towel that I used to wipe my hands on to get it all off and then blow it out from under my finger nails. I think that's what got in my eye to cut it under the contact. Ironically, yesterday I bought another set of gloves and sewed them to the collar to replace the bad one so I didn't have that problem anymore. But I think it was too late by then since I already felt the issue in my eye. It won't be till Friday before I know if it's healed up enough to put my contacts back in so I can see again. My old prescription glasses just don't cut it unless I look through the bifocal section just to see.

 

And yes, all of us that do this sort of thing over our lifespan can call ourselves lucky if we can still see, hear and walk. We've all had injuries like this that makes us more aware. I just wish I had listened to myself and changed out those gloves weeks ago. But I get stubborn and just keep pushing on trying to get more done without stopping. Now it'll be a few days before things are back to normal. Learn while we live, and use what we learn!

 

Here's the glove I was using before I changed it yesterday. Now you can see how stubborn and focused I get when I'm in a project. I'm always holding small parts and it takes a toll on the ends of the gloves.

DSC_0167.JPG

 

I'm glad it was a tiny piece and not larger pieces like what you had to deal with Chev. That had to be painful compared to this!


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#63 LRCXed ONLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2017 - 04:42 PM

Always remember,any time you using automotive type paints,light coats with flash time gives the best results

 

That's why I was painting so late at night. Curing and flash times eat up a day quickly. Especially with so many parts. I've been painting professionally for more than 40 years, and I knew it would be a long day. Just didn't plan on it being that late.


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#64 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 11:23 AM

Really looks good,nice job

Edited by blackjackjakexxix, July 27, 2017 - 11:24 AM.

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#65 LRCXed ONLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 02:26 PM

Not being the type to sit still, I pulled the clutch/brake assembly apart last night. Not in very bad shape accept for some wave washers and the right side pivot point.

The pivot hole in the bracket is going to need to be welded up to drill a new hole. But with this point being what centers the assembly, I'm going to need to get it in the exact center so the end of the drive shaft lines up with the input on the transmission. It may not be that important, but I'd like to see if someone can give me the center point of where the whole should measured from the corner like I have in the picture. I'm also going to need to machine a new pivot spacer and would like the OD and the thickness measurements. Thanks in advance for taking the time to help out with this.

 

DSC_0179 A.jpg DSC_0185 A.jpg DSC_0186.JPG


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#66 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 04:16 PM

If someone else doesn't have the correct sizes you can check out post # 89 on my 1053 thread as it has the sizes of the spacer I made for it - http://gardentractor...-project/page-6 .  

 

The two holes that the pivot bracket bolts to in the main support are slotted to allow for some adjustment forwards and backwards so as long as you get the location close it should work ok.  The spacer should not be worn much as far as height and the very top and bottom O.D. of your spacer where it is not grooved should be very close to what it was originally.  If you check out pictures 11 and 12 of post # 116 of the 1053 thread you should get a pretty good idea of where the pivot hole is - looking at the third picture you have in post # 65 I would say the way you have it positioned should be close enough to work fine. Hope this helps.


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#67 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2017 - 04:27 PM

I get 5/8'' On both your horizontal & Vertical when measuring a NOS one


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#68 LRCXed ONLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2017 - 05:00 PM

Thanks Chev for the reference link. But just like using a shop manual, I use your entire post all the time during this project just like so many others have I'm sure. Thanks for such a detailed build post.

 

Before I posted about needing the measurements of the hole and the spacer, I had checked Brian's site for the parts but didn't find them in his inventory. So I checked Ricks list after I had posted and found all of them there including the pivot plate and spacer, along with a few more parts I'll need. He's working on the list today for me.

But for anyone looking for parts that aren't on a sellers list, contact them first. It turns out not all of what they have is listed on the parts list sites.

 

I had a follow up appointment on my eye today and the DR suggest waiting another day or two before I put my contacts back in so I can see clearly enough to paint all the parts I have ready. So I did a bit of shopping today. I needed another quart of brown because painting all the little parts wastes a lot of paint that just gets sprayed past the part. The shop I had to go to was on the other side of the city. But I got to thinking that there's a place over that way that sells nuts & bolts & metal by the pound. So I loaded up a box with an assortment of what came off the 1050 and headed out. 2 hours later I was back with more paint and several bags of nuts, bolts, washers, AND a 5' section of true 5/8" rod. I was glad they had everything organized in bins and by size, Because this place is a big tin warehouse with NO air conditioning. It was HOT in there to say the least! But they had all the different lengths and sizes I needed, and they are not just a full threaded bold. They match the bolts perfectly with the thicker non threaded portions of the bolts I needed. The project is going back together with ALL new fasteners! WooHoo!

 

Here is the goodies I got today. The 5/8" rod is to make a new steering gear shaft so I don't have to weld up the old one.

DSC_0188.JPG DSC_0189.JPG DSC_0190.JPG

 

These are the next batch of parts to paint.

DSC_0191.JPG

 

Later today I'll start final cleaning on everything and get them taped up as needed and get them hung on a wire ready to spray when eve my eyes are ready. Then after the paints cured it's a matter of starting to put all the new bearings, bushings etc. in and getting things ready to assemble.

I've got one major project still looming over my head. I have to strip the old linings off the clutch and install the new ones I got from Sam's. That should be fun making up a jig to press everything together so it can go in the oven for an hour!


Edited by LRCXed, July 28, 2017 - 10:25 PM.

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#69 LRCXed ONLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2017 - 09:00 PM

Today started out with getting the old clutch and brake discs off the hub and brake plate. It went a lot easier than expected using a sharp wood chisel to wedge the old discs off. After they were removed I taped up the hub parts where I didn't want blasted and cleaned up the surfaces. Then I sanded the surface's where the new discs would bond to. With that done I used a 1/2" threaded rod and bolted the assembly together with the new discs in place to put it all in the oven at 400 degrees for an hour so the new discs would bond to the metal. I used a few square pieces of tubing to keep the assembly from sitting on the oven grill so it didn't distort and push the discs out of position. After the hour was over I pulled it out and let it cool before I unbolted the all thread. As you can see, baking the cast iron parts in the oven pulls out any moisture trapped inside and lightly rusts the surface that will need to be cleaned off before painting.

DSC_0192.JPG DSC_0193.JPG DSC_0196.JPG

 

While the assembly baked in the oven I decided to try putting my contacts back in my eyes which went well. No issues, and I can see again! So the focus was now on getting everything prepped and ready to paint today. While the clutch assembly cooled, I taped up all the rest of the parts where I didn't want painted and got all the 41 parts hung on wires and ready to seal and paint. Then it was a matter of taping off the new disc areas on the clutch assembly. Since I removed one of the old discs without breaking it, I used it as a guide to put over the taped up brake hub that was taped up where the metal needed to be bare. With a hobby knife I cut the tape just inside the disc so I could paint the rest of the parts so they wouldn't rust in the future.

DSC_0198.JPG DSC_0199.JPG DSC_0200.JPG DSC_0201.JPG DSC_0202.JPG DSC_0202.JPG

 

After that was prepped I cut off the badly damaged threaded end of the clutch/fork lever and welded a new section to the fork from a long grade 5 bolt I had in my spare bolt drawer.

DSC_0197.JPG

 

With all the parts ready, the rest of the day was spent on sealing and painting. It was nice to have gotten all this done before it was dark like it was painting the last batch of parts. And I did use the flash camera pictures this time too to make sure I had a full coverage of paint on all the parts.

 

I know some of the parts are hard to se in these pictures, but they are spread out and hard to focus on all of them at once.

DSC_0203.JPG DSC_0204.JPG DSC_0205.JPG DSC_0206.JPG DSC_0207.JPG DSC_0208.JPG

 

It's getting there! After the parts get here I ordered from Rick I'll start putting things together as far as I can go before the next steps. But I have a few days before they get here. So we'll see what I can get ready by then.

 


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#70 LRCXed ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2017 - 03:06 PM

Yesterday I got the rest of the parts prepped and ready to paint. Got up early to beat the heat of the day and got the last batch of parts painted. The parts I ordered from Rick came in at the same time and I was even able to paint the pivot bracket at the same time. Now it's time to start assembling components and getting ready to start putting this all back together. I'm jazzed to see it going back together finally!

 

Last batch hanging in the heat curing. If you look at the top plate you can see the hood in the reflection. Not planned, just happened to be there.

DSC_0223.JPG DSC_0224.JPG


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#71 LRCXed ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2017 - 03:10 PM

I while back I asked if anyone knew if there was a specific RED paint that was used on the wheels but got no replies. Was it missed by everyone, or is there no specific color code? Just pick a nice red?


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#72 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2017 - 03:52 PM

I while back I asked if anyone knew if there was a specific RED paint that was used on the wheels but got no replies. Was it missed by everyone, or is there no specific color code? Just pick a nice red?

 

I have yet to come up with a good code for the red


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#73 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2017 - 04:12 PM

Man that Brown looks awesome!! A few of my machines have the original color still on them but they don't shine like that!


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#74 LRCXed ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2017 - 05:20 PM

I have yet to come up with a good code for the red

 

 I guess I'll just go to the paint shop and pick a red that looks good. Thanks Brian.



#75 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2017 - 05:25 PM

 I guess I'll just go to the paint shop and pick a red that looks good. Thanks Brian.

 

The thing that makes it tough is as with alot of the other colors the shade changed over the years.

When I do a restore I try and match up what I can but with so many color's used its going to take us time to get them ironed out.


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