Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

1050 restoration, paying the tractor back!


  • Please log in to reply
161 replies to this topic

#31 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted July 18, 2017 - 03:39 PM

Hi guys, I'm finally getting time to return to the project, but I need some help. I thought, I had found and downloaded the service manual, but can't seem to find it. When I reassemble the axles, I've seen that I need to put gear oil inside the left hub but I don't know how much. I'd like to get this all done and assembled before I paint it.

Can someone please show me the link to the service manual that covers the whole tractor? Not just the trans axle.

BTW, I did a search for 1050 service manual and came up empty.

Link for Tube Frame Service Manual - http://gardentractor...nual-552875-1/ 


  • boyscout862 and logmillingman have said thanks

#32 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 18, 2017 - 03:59 PM

Thanks Chev, just what I was looking for. I've seen this before, but I must have just opened it instead of saving it.



#33 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 19, 2017 - 10:12 PM

I was able to sneak in a bit of time today getting the case cleaned up and ready to paint before I assembled the left and right axle hubs. With the hubs in place it would make sanding down the surface more difficult. I tried wire brushes on my die grinder, but got tired of getting hit with wires being spun off and hitting me. Going through my drawers of cleaning options I ended up using some abrasive 80 grit nylon wheels I bought from Harbor freight tools. They ground the old rust and paint off just great, and I didn't get any fragments of the wheels hitting me. There are a few tight areas I'm going to need to use the small wire brush wheels in, but not many since the nylon wheels flex into the corners and crevices fairly well.

 

After the sanding is done I'll spray the entire surface with electric spray cleaner to remove all the traces of oil and assembly compounds. The CRC electric spray is the best I've found for clearing any metal surface of oil contaminants before painting. Better than acetone or lacquer for sure.

 

This is after a couple hours of sanding the case down with the 80 grit wheel in a die grinder.

DSC_0005.JPG

 

These are the sanding wheels I used.

DSC_0006.JPG


Edited by LRCXed, July 20, 2017 - 10:54 AM.

  • 29 Chev and logmillingman have said thanks

#34 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted July 20, 2017 - 01:18 PM

Looks like the transmission case cleaned up very nice.  I find some wire brushes are not rated for the higher rpm's that an air powered die grinder runs at - that may be why the wires were coming off the wheels.  An electric or air powered drill turns much slower and is easier to control - just a suggestion.



#35 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 20, 2017 - 02:47 PM

The wire brush wheels I was using were old, and I expected them to shed wires. I was experimenting to see if they would work. But I have an air control valve on the die grinder and had it turned down pretty low. It didn't matter though. The wire brush in the picture isn't the one that was shedding. That one worked fine but didn't clean the surface fast enough for me.

DSC_0012.JPG

 

I got the left and right hubs on today. So I'm making progress again. When I put the left hub on with the new seal in it, I cut a finger off a latex glove and slide it over the threads of the shaft. Being latex with grease on it the seal slides over it really smooth and protects the seal.

DSC_0008.JPG

 

I have a question here though. Reading through the manual about assembling the hub, I didn't see anything about leaving the drive cone dry or to grease it. So I greased it before putting it in. But looking at your 1053 thread on post #56, it doesn't look like it's greased. Should I take it back out and clean out the grease?

DSC_0010.JPG

 

One more question. When I put the spring washers in, do they stay dry or get greased?

DSC_0011.JPG

 

Through all the years of using this tractor I never knew about, or messed with the red adjusting nut. The tractor didn't come with a users manual, and the internet wasn't what it is today to get info on it. What exactly does this do when it's tightened up? Is it mainly used when doing tilling or heavy work where you need better traction?

DSC_0013.JPG


Edited by LRCXed, July 20, 2017 - 02:48 PM.

  • logmillingman and dtsh have said thanks

#36 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted July 20, 2017 - 03:18 PM

 

 

 

I have a question here though. Reading through the manual about assembling the hub, I didn't see anything about leaving the drive cone dry or to grease it. So I greased it before putting it in. But looking at your 1053 thread on post #56, it doesn't look like it's greased. Should I take it back out and clean out the grease?

 

 

One more question. When I put the spring washers in, do they stay dry or get greased?

 

 

Through all the years of using this tractor I never knew about, or messed with the red adjusting nut. The tractor didn't come with a users manual, and the internet wasn't what it is today to get info on it. What exactly does this do when it's tightened up? Is it mainly used when doing tilling or heavy work where you need better traction?

 

 

I would suggest lubricating the inside of the cone with grease so it will slide on the axle and the key but leave it dry where the cone contacts the hub.

 

I would put a light layer of grease on the wave washers as it will keep them from rusting.

 

The adjusting nut is designed to lock up the two wheels so that if one slips the other will still drive if you are in situation such as blowing snow.  Having it tightened up will help going forward but you may cut the lawn up if you were mowing and turning - for normal use I would recommend the nut be all the way out against the snap ring so the hub is not locked up with the axle. 
 


  • logmillingman and LRCXed have said thanks

#37 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 20, 2017 - 04:39 PM

Thanks Stew. All the grease is cleaned out now and put back together dry. Now it's a matter of a little more cleaning in some of the corners to finish it up. Then I need to make a trip and get the paint for it. I'd like to get it tomorrow, but we'll see what the day brings.

 

DSC_0015.JPG DSC_0016.JPG


  • Bolens 1000, 29 Chev, logmillingman and 1 other said thanks

#38 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted July 20, 2017 - 05:31 PM

You probably know that there is a vent in the right front corner (similar in material to the 60's stone style GM fuel filters) - I would suggest you check to make sure it is not plugged and also that you mask it so you don't get paint in it -  post 65 .  You don't have to remove it - you can just spray it with brakleen on the top, hold a rag underneath the vent and blow it with some compressed air and see if the brakleen shows up on the rag along with any dirt.



#39 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 20, 2017 - 05:47 PM

Yes sir, I did know about it. But not until I was doing the research here before I started this project. I made a rubber cone that fit on the tip of the spray can hose and flushed it out really well before I put the cluster gear and parts back in. It flushed out clean by the time I was done, and then sprayed the air hose through it to be sure. If it hadn't cleaned up I was going to press it out and run it in my ultrasonic cleaner. But I didn't need to do that.

Thanks for looking out on this detail. You guys are the best!

 

Here's a couple pictures of it. Using the cone made sure all the spray and the pressure was forced through the vent.

DSC_0017.JPG DSC_0018.JPG


Edited by LRCXed, July 20, 2017 - 05:56 PM.

  • Bolens 1000, 29 Chev and logmillingman have said thanks

#40 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 20, 2017 - 06:52 PM

Now that everything is assembled I did a double check on how it shifts when the shift rods are pushed in or pulled out to change gears for R, 1st, 2nd & 3rd. They went in and out just fine. But when I tried to move the High/Low range shift rod it wouldn't move. So I backed out the set screw and removed the spring and ball. I put some grease in there since there was only a small amount put on it during installation. With the set screw backed out it shifts easy and smooth. But when I turn the set screw in to where it stops, it locks up the shift shaft. Am I supposed to just turn it in till the ball has enough pressure to hold the shaft in place? And if so, what should I use to lock the set screw in place? Loctite?

 

The shaft is greased up, but won't move when the set screw is bottomed out.

DSC_0019.JPG

DSC_0020.JPG



#41 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted July 20, 2017 - 07:11 PM

Now that everything is assembled I did a double check on how it shifts when the shift rods are pushed in or pulled out to change gears for R, 1st, 2nd & 3rd. They went in and out just fine. But when I tried to move the High/Low range shift rod it wouldn't move. So I backed out the set screw and removed the spring and ball. I put some grease in there since there was only a small amount put on it during installation. With the set screw backed out it shifts easy and smooth. But when I turn the set screw in to where it stops, it locks up the shift shaft. Am I supposed to just turn it in till the ball has enough pressure to hold the shaft in place? And if so, what should I use to lock the set screw in place? Loctite?

 

The shaft is greased up, but won't move when the set screw is bottomed out.

 

 

According to the service manual the set screws (#85) should be flush with the case as per the attached page.  I think they rely on the tension of the spring against the set screw on the right to keep it from turning - not sure what they expect to keep the one on the left in so I put a little blue thread locker on mine - a bit of gasket cement would probably work as well.

 

You may want to verify that the interlock is working on the two gear shifting rails - if one rail is not in a detent position you should not be able to move the other shift rail. 

Attached Files


Edited by 29 Chev, July 20, 2017 - 07:15 PM.

  • LRCXed said thank you

#42 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 20, 2017 - 07:43 PM

Following the pdf file you attached, when the set screw is flush with the case there is NO tension on the detente ball. With the set screw pulled out, and the ball in the groove of the shaft, there is .400" between the case and the end of the spring. The set screw is only .382" long. So it takes an extra full turn in on the setscrew to get tension on the spring. At 1 1/2 turns in the shaft doesn't want to move very easy. So 1 turn it's going to be.

I had put Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket sealer on the set screw to seal the threads from leaking, but I think I'll clean all that out with electric spray cleaner and use the loctite to hold the screw in place. At least I checked it now instead of later. It would have probably bent the drift pins in the high/low shaft after trying to shift it a few times.

 

Thanks again Stew!


  • 29 Chev and logmillingman have said thanks

#43 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted July 20, 2017 - 08:07 PM

As long as there is enough spring tension on the ball to keep the shift rail in the detent position all should be good - if memory serves me correctly the shift rail is .500" in diameter and where the ball would center in the detent is .375" in diameter - probably if the shift rail is not in detent there would be enough spring pressure on the ball to move the ball into the detent and hold it there even though the ball is not bottomed out on the detent position.  The spring and set screw may not be the originals and may be slightly shorter than what  was installed at the factory. I think my second 1050 had that problem where there was not enough tension on the detent ball when I took it apart - it used to jump out of hi range sometimes and as a result I put the set screw in a little further than flush - it has not jumped out of hi range since. As long as you can shift the rail easily and the ball and spring have enough tension to hold the shift rail in detent position and the set screw stays put you should be good to go. 


  • blackjackjakexxix and LRCXed have said thanks

#44 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 21, 2017 - 11:54 AM

While I'm heading out to get paint mixed today, is there a particular red that's used on the wheels?



#45 LRCXed ONLINE  

LRCXed
  • Member
  • Member No: 87288
  • 287 Thanks
  • 91 posts
  • Location: Sacramento

Posted July 21, 2017 - 09:37 PM

Well, today was a productive day. I found a paint supply shop closer to me than the one I had initially found that gave me the paint codes for Sherwin Williams/Martin Senour urethane paint for the brown and white. That was nice because the first shop was an hour away. The new one was only 20 minutes from me. So the trip was made and I picked up everything I needed to get this thing painted. Once I got back I sprayed the trans axle down with electrical spray followed by acetone to remove all traces of the grease and oils during assembly. Then I taped off the sections I didn't think should be painted and got it ready to paint.

DSC_0022.JPG

 

The first stage was to seal the bare metal with epoxy sealer so the metal was etched and protected from moisture ever soaking into it through the paint, as well as giving the paint a good bond to the surface. In case I had too much sealer and paint mixed up I got a few more parts glass beaded and ready to spray also. It paid off in the end.

DSC_0024.JPG DSC_0026.JPG DSC_0025.JPG

 

Then came painting all this with the Cordovan Brown Metallic. The first coat went on ok, but I was a bit concerned when the first coat showed it was going to be a bit transparent and wasn't a really good covering color. It ended up taking 3 coats to ensure it was all an even color coating. But I'm happy with the results.

DSC_0029.JPG DSC_0031.JPG DSC_0030.JPG DSC_0032.JPG DSC_0027.JPG

 

I have to tell you that I wasn't really jazzed about restoring this with the stock colors. With the way it looked in it's old weather worn stage, it didn't look very appealing. But, after painting the parts I did, with the metallic showing in the brown, I really am liking the look of it. Pictures of completed tractors don't really show the detail in the paint. But I'm liking what I see so far.

 

Now for a sad/stupid story. When I took the 1050 apart I put a couple parts in a 5 gallon bucket of 50/50 mix of muriatic acid and water to dissolve the rust on them. I left them in there for a day. When I pulled the first part out and rinsed it off all was fine. But I had some sort of interruption that made me forget about the second part. It was the battery tray shelf and it had all four of the screw clips on it still. Well, I forgot about it for over a week. When I finally pulled it out, the clips had been eaten away. And the metal tray had been eaten away fairly badly especially on the edges and rolled edges.

So, my question and request is, does anybody have a good battery tray with the clips on it that I could buy? This one is not what I want to put back in this project even though it would work.

DSC_0033.JPG DSC_0035.JPG

 

I guess that's it for now. Next step will be pulling the motor off the frame and pulling components off one at a time to glass bead them for restoring and painting.

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSC_0031.JPG

  • blackjackjakexxix and 29 Chev have said thanks




Top