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1050 restoration, paying the tractor back!


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#16 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 11:01 AM

Looking good!!

 

The dipsticks were always sold as a complete assembly together

 

Do you have one?



#17 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 01:50 PM

I do have a couple new ones left

http://bolenspartsan...-tra10d-tra12d/


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#18 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 02:15 PM

Thank you, email sent.



#19 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 02:43 PM

Larry,if you don't do any good on that cross over for the paint I used Sherwin Williams Dimension acrylic enamel on my 1000 I redid,perfect match,it's in the paint codes listed here,it was a 1965 AMC Cordovan Metallic Brown, there's a pic of the paint code shown
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#20 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 03:21 PM

Rick,

I was able to find a Martin Senour paint supply store today for the Diesel White and the Cordovan metallic brown paints today. They looked up the white under Bolens Equipment and came up with it. Hope it's correct, because I saw lots of those in the list here. http://gardentractor...aint-code-info/  I did find the code they gave me in the list. Is this the right color for my year 1050?

1862177
Martin Senour
4523590   <<<< this is the # they gave me.
Diesel White

I'm going to do it in urethane single stage so it'll hold up better. BTW, they found the brown with only the 1614 part of the 53A-1614 code listed in the paint code page.

Thanks for everyone's help. It's making this project much easier.

 

I got the parts I ordered from Bolens 1000 a bit ago, and even though I have a set of heads to assemble, I couldn't resist. I took the free wheel hub to the vice and with a large brass punch I was able to knock out the old bushings pretty easy. Then I beveled the outer edge of the hub a little so the bushings would go in smooth without scoring them. I placed a flat body shop dolly on top of the bushing to tap it in slightly to get it set before I went to the press. To my surprise both bushings slid in really easy with just tapping on the flat plate. 5 minutes and done with that project. Hope the rest of the project goes this smoothly..... wishful thinking!

 

Out with the old,

DSC_3769.JPG

 

The new bushings,

DSC_3766.JPG

 

And in with the new,

DSC_3768.JPG

 

All I need now is the bronze washer from you Rick and I can get this part of the project buttoned up and painted.

 


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#21 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 07:03 PM

Looks like things are progressing well for you - thanks for posting the pictures.  Two suggestions I will offer you for what they are worth.  The thrust washer on the rear axle is worn but you could turn it over and that way the non worn side would be against the axle housing and the worn side would be against the hub which has a larger face and would be wearing on the thicker part of the washer.  You could go to an auto parts store and get a cup style frost plug that would fit down over the outside of the dip stick tube.  Drill a slot in the frost plug for the dipstick tube and then bronze or silver solder it to the dipstick in the proper spot.  The frost plug may not be as deep as the original cup but you could solder a sheet metal band to the outside of the frost plug to give it more depth.   


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#22 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 07:37 PM

Chev, that's a good work around idea. But with all the other parts I'm going to need to order as I go along, the cost for the washer from Rick was only $5.25 to return it to new specs. And Brian has a new dipstick sitting aside for me. I just ordered new clutch/disc pads from Sam's too. So the list will grow as I go along. Since this tractor lasted 50 years till now and still runs, bringing it back to specs will ensure it'll last 50 more without any worries that I left something unattended to.

 

I've read your build from the beginning on the 1053. Great work and lots of good ideas. Almost there!


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#23 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 07:42 PM

Rick,
I was able to find a Martin Senour paint supply store today for the Diesel White and the Cordovan metallic brown paints today. They looked up the white under Bolens Equipment and came up with it. Hope it's correct, because I saw lots of those in the list here. http://gardentractor...aint-code-info/ I did find the code they gave me in the list. Is this the right color for my year 1050?
1862177
Martin Senour
4523590 <<<< this is the # they gave me.
Diesel White
I'm going to do it in urethane single stage so it'll hold up better. BTW, they found the brown with only the 1614 part of the 53A-1614 code listed in the paint code page.
Thanks for everyone's help. It's making this project much easier.

I got the parts I ordered from Bolens 1000 a bit ago, and even though I have a set of heads to assemble, I couldn't resist. I took the free wheel hub to the vice and with a large brass punch I was able to knock out the old bushings pretty easy. Then I beveled the outer edge of the hub a little so the bushings would go in smooth without scoring them. I placed a flat body shop dolly on top of the bushing to tap it in slightly to get it set before I went to the press. To my surprise both bushings slid in really easy with just tapping on the flat plate. 5 minutes and done with that project. Hope the rest of the project goes this smoothly..... wishful thinking!

Out with the old,
DSC_3769.JPG

The new bushings,
DSC_3766.JPG

And in with the new,
DSC_3768.JPG

All I need now is the bronze washer from you Rick and I can get this part of the project buttoned up and painted.

The whites are tricky,many different shades, all depended on the year,my match for my 1000 was from a Dodge color from 1969 i believe
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#24 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 07:49 PM

With all the white's in the list I was afraid of that. I'm not really sure yet what year mine is, but I did find that the motor is a 1967. If it helps to figure out what year mine is, the model label says 192 02, with serial # 28839. I'd love to know for sure what year it is so I get the paint correct.


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#25 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 09:29 PM

With all the white's in the list I was afraid of that. I'm not really sure yet what year mine is, but I did find that the motor is a 1967. If it helps to figure out what year mine is, the model label says 192 02, with serial # 28839. I'd love to know for sure what year it is so I get the paint correct.

 

Probably a late 67 or early 68 by my guess and my knowledge of the serial numbers.  


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#26 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2017 - 05:43 PM

Thanks wilberj, I was figuring the same thing since I've read that the year of the motors are usually from the year before. I was just hoping to get info that showed for sure what year it is so I could get the correct paint code for the white/off white paint.

 

So with it being the 4th of July, I decided to make some sparkles of my own today with the welder. While cleaning up the case last night and sanding it down with an abrasive sanding brush wheel, I noticed that the holes the attachment pins go in were beveled from wear over the years. Instead of just welding them up and grinding the holes straight again, I decided to make a steel sleeve and weld it in. Since the holes were already tapered, I used a stepped drill bit to open up the holes large enough to accept the outer diameter of the steel pipe I lathed down to match the step drill. As you'll see, the step drill size I needed was the second to the last step on it. So I ground off the last step so I could use it to drill all the way through without having to use a die grinder to finish opening it up. It worked pretty well, but put a load on the cordless drill to do it, but it got it done. Next was to cut the sleeve and grind it to the correct shape and angles for each side, followed by beveling the edges of both the pipe and casting to accept a deeper weld penetration. I started with the right side and tack welded it so I could correctly align it. Then fully welded the circumference. When I did the other side of it, the sparkles stopped just as I was about to finish. Ah crap.... I'm out of mig wire! So finishing this project will have to wait till tomorrow when the welding shop opens again. No more 4th of July sparkles today. :ah_shoot:

 

DSC_3770.JPG DSC_3771.JPG DSC_3772.JPG DSC_3775.JPG DSC_3774.JPG DSC_3776.JPG DSC_3778.JPG DSC_3773.JPG DSC_3777.JPG

 

In the last picture you can see where I lot sight of the weld and got off track.


Edited by LRCXed, July 05, 2017 - 10:03 AM.

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#27 AUTOLUKE OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 04:36 AM

Unfortunately my axle problem is not related to the washers , but a cracked right hand hub.  Any chance that one is available from any of the suppliers ?



#28 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 07:25 AM

Unfortunately my axle problem is not related to the washers , but a cracked right hand hub. Any chance that one is available from any of the suppliers ?


Don't have any right now

#29 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 01:29 PM

Well, the welders back up and the pin holes are done now.

DSC_3779.JPG DSC_3781.JPG

 

Now it's time to finish that motor I keep ignoring. When that's done I'll get this cleaned up and painted.


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#30 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2017 - 01:29 PM

Hi guys, I'm finally getting time to return to the project, but I need some help. I thought, I had found and downloaded the service manual, but can't seem to find it. When I reassemble the axles, I've seen that I need to put gear oil inside the left hub but I don't know how much. I'd like to get this all done and assembled before I paint it.

Can someone please show me the link to the service manual that covers the whole tractor? Not just the trans axle.

BTW, I did a search for 1050 service manual and came up empty.






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