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1050 restoration, paying the tractor back!


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#151 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2017 - 02:42 PM

Looks like USPS has your seat pan getting to you on the 5th. Hope the box makes it intact,( homemade) there's an old seat cover in there too!! Or what's left of one. hopefully enough to make patterns from.


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#152 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2017 - 04:09 PM

Tom,

Yep, I've been following it too. Even if the box gets messed up, the seat pan is pretty thick metal. So I would hope they couldn't mess that up.

 

Just an update, I'm painting off white right now. I'll show the unique system I had to set up to do that later on.


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#153 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2017 - 05:45 PM

OK, the last of the off white parts are painted. The fun part was setting something up to handle the wheel weights. As you can see I clamped a 2x4 to the top of my ladder and hung one on each end to balance it out. But just in case, I tied a wire to the canopy frame so it wouldn't tip over. To hang the weights, I did a double twisted wire with washers on the end to hold the weight and hung them over the 2x4. Then as luck would have it, a 5/8" all thread rod slipped right into the end of the ladders step so I could bolt the steering wheel on the end. This made it easy to twist around as I painted the wheel. Then I cut a section of wooden dowel, drilled a hole in them and bolted them to the top of the 2x4 so I could put the front wheel grease caps on them to paint. But just for safety, I put a magnet on the screw to hold the caps securely. I was worried the spray guns air pressure would move them around. It all went very well with no problems. The parts are out there curing in the 108 degree temps at the moment. I'm glad this is done so I can take a break for the weekend with my son. I'm looking forward to doing nothing at all for a few days.

 

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#154 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2017 - 06:44 PM

Since I was going to chill out for the weekend, and my son slept in late, I decided to get the gas tank cleaned out inside so I could put the POR-15 tank sealer in it to ensure it wouldn't rust over the following years. As I was pulling the petcock out of it to put a plug in it, I noticed a small spot at the bottom back of it that looked like it may have been a pinhole starting. Sure enough, after cleaning the paint off and picking away at it I found a hand full of pin holes. Looking inside there was only a small area where rust had been building up at the very back of the tank. Any water that had gotten in there had sat at the back of the tank and rusted through it. I'm lucky I found it now since it never ate all the way through and dumped the gas out.

 

Since I was going to need to braze or fill the holes with lead solder, I sealed the pin holes with aluminum tape that's used for air conditioning ducting. It seals well and the muriatic acid I use to eat the rust out of the tank won't eat through the tape. Just as I was about to fill it with acid I decided I better check my can of POR-15 tank sealer and make sure it was still good. Sure enough, it had skimmed over and was getting thick. So I put a little bit in a container and thinned it out with acetone. Then I spread some of it on a sheet of metal to test and make sure it'll still cure and bond to the metal. I'll know more tomorrow. But if it doesn't bond I'll have to wait till Tuesday to get a new can of sealer. I'll probably fill the tank with acid tomorrow morning and let it eat the rust out for a few hours. Then I can get the holes filled in and have it ready for the sealer when I'm sure it'll work. I'll be doing a second round of acid after the holes are filled to clean out any slag inside it from the heat of welding of soldering.

 

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#155 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2017 - 02:28 PM

I filled the tank with acid early this morning. Then I took a look at the gas cap for it to see how the cork seal was. I found something interesting. There's 4 small vent holes on the underside of the cap that were totally plugged up with rust debris. I poked them clean and then pulled the center out when I was pulling on the gasket. On the inside I found only 1 hole. It turns out there's a disc that's pressed in to the center. I had to use my rubber tipped air blower through the one center hole in the disc, and it blew the disc up on one side. Then pulled it out with a pick. There I could see where the water had leaked through in between the two sections to cause the rust to slowly plug the four small vent holes over time. I'll clean this all up and brush a coat of tank sealer inside it  and let it dry before it's pressed back together so it doesn't happen again.

 

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As a note of interest, since the carb is gravity fed, the plugged vent holes in the cap will end up causing a vacuum inside the tank as the fuel level goes down and not let enough full to flow into the carb. I've read a few posts in the past where guys have lost power after running they're tractor under load for a while, but will return to power for a while after sitting a few minutes. The fuel will slowly trickle into the bowl and fill it again after sitting, but not flow enough to sustain it under a load. They could have been experiencing fuel starvation due to a plugged cap vent. To test if that's a problem in the future, simply unscrew the cap a bit to let air in and see if the motor returns to full power under a load. If it does, clean the vent holes in the cap. I've run into this on a few bike jobs I've worked on over the years. Hope this helps someone in the future.


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#156 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2017 - 05:44 PM

I drained the acid, rinsed it with a water hose and immediately poured acetone in it to chase out the water so it wouldn't flash rust and blew it out with an air blower to dry that out. After pulling the tape off and cleaning the glue left from it, I did a quick glass bead of the area. Then I lightly tapped the metal down where the holes were so that when the holes were filled and sanded down there was enough filler thickness. I brushed muriatic acid on the area for a final cleaning, then used a low heat propane torch and soldering flux for water pipes to flow and bond the lead to the metal. I used true lead that is used for doing the old style bodywork years ago. The true lead melts and flows at a much lower heat than the solder that's sold now days with the tin in it. Much easier to work with. After filling it in I tested it with some acetone and found another small hole in the end plate right at the seam. So preheating the metal with the torch, I used my electric soldering gun to flow the lead into the corner seam so I didn't melt out the lead in the bottom of the tank. With that done I used a lead file to file down the lead, followed by block sanding it with 220.

With the holes filled I have the tank outside and filled with acid again to do a final cleaning of and scale or debris left inside from filling the holes. It will sit for a couple hours and I'll rinse it out same as above. Then I'll pour the sealer in it right away and rotate it around a few times to seal the whole tank, and pour out the extra and then let it cure for several days. Then I can strip and blast the outside and have it ready to paint when I paint the motor block.

 

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Instead of adding another post, Here's an added picture of vacuuming out the excess sealer after I poured it in and rolled it around a few times. Now the tank sits to let the sealer cure for a few days.

 

DSC_0640.JPG


Edited by LRCXed, September 03, 2017 - 07:32 PM.

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#157 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2017 - 04:06 PM

I got the parts and air cleaner decal from Brian this morning. The decal is already on it's way to Canada to be reproduced.

 

Not much being done on the tractor for now. I've started getting parts ready to paint for the bike I need to get done. But once the motor is bored out I'll get back to it. It may be a couple weeks though since were waiting on the piston to come in.


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#158 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2017 - 10:08 PM

I forgot to mention that I also got the seat pan and old seat cover to use as a pattern from Tom today. It has no cracks in the pan and no rust. It's going to make this restoration complete when I can get back to it. Thank you Tom!


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#159 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2017 - 10:58 AM

Nice work saving that tank
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#160 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2017 - 01:34 PM

Just a quick update. I got the new piston from Brian and it's at the machine shop with the block waiting to get bored out.

 

Also, the air cleaner decal is in Canada and he'll be working on reproducing it next week.

 

That's all there is for now, it'll still be a while before more progress is made.


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#161 Dukedkt442 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2017 - 12:57 PM

Great work!
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#162 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2017 - 10:32 AM

Hi folks. Another uneventful update! The block has been bored .030 over but is still in the machine shop. When they pushed out the old valve guides to install the new ones, they discovered that the new guides didn't have any resistance and basically could be pushed in by hand. The exhaust guide pushed all the way through. So, now the search is on to find bronze valve guides that can be machine to fit tightly so they don't fall out when the motor is heated up and running. So it's still going to be a while before I get it back.

 

On the good side, the air cleaner decals are done and on the way to me. This is a picture of the artwork above the original that he sent me before he printed them. I'll add a picture of the decal when I get them.

 

Air cleaner decal.JPG

 

Well, that's about it for now.


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#163 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2017 - 04:27 AM

Any time to work on the tractor lately? Still swamped with the motorcycle restoration?


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#164 LRCXed OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2017 - 05:55 PM

No Not yet. I did get the block back from the machine shop after they made a new exhaust valve guide and did the valves. I also got the decals back that I had made. They came out great and look just like OEM.

And yes, I'll be busy with the motorcycle restoration for quit a while before I can get back to the tractor. One more good thing came from that though. I now have the ability to do my own zinc plating on the nuts/bolts and brackets that I couldn't replace new for the tractor. It's a Caswell kit and it works great, but does take time.

 

Here's the block done and waiting for me to give it some attention.

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These are the air cleaner decals I got back from reproduction.

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These are some of the motorcycle parts I've zinc plated and done in the correct color chromate. It adds a new level to any restoration I do now.

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Edited by LRCXed, November 09, 2017 - 06:46 PM.

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#165 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2017 - 12:12 PM

I'll say that you really do some nice work. With what you've done that tractor will serve you for many years. Look how long they lasted even when abused and left outdoors in the elements.


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