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Any differences in rust reformers ?

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 08:13 PM

I have had pretty good results using the "Rust Reformer" on a lot of parts, some I just left uncoated and other stuff topcoated. It does require the wire brush clean-up that has been mentioned before any coating is applied, mainly just to get rid of the loose flakey stuff. I guess it just depends on the need and application if a person should sandblast and start fresh.


On Al's wire fencing I imagine the right track would have been the brush on stuff since 90% of the spray was wasted!


The Penetrol deal is interesting. I never thought about using it for a prep-coat but it has been a valuable additive for me since the early 1980's. In my sign painting days it helped the One Shot lettering paints flow much better, it improved coverage and toughened up the finished product. I even use it to preserve fading and oxidizing painted surfaces and over rust!


My old '55 GMC is a rust bucket but 99% of the people that comment on it say don't paint it and I really don't want to put that much time and money into it either. It would oxidize very fast after cleaning and it was pretty difficult to rub it back out. A coat of Penetrol just wiped on with a rag like stain has saved a lot of work keeping the old beater a little more presentable.


The pic is the difference with Penetrol (center area with GMC logo) and without and a pic of the can. It doesn't stay that shiny which is what I wanted.


Oh and the last pic is an old pistol my Mom dug out of the ground after getting a hit with her metal detector nearly 50 years ago. She soaked it in Naval Jelly and got this result. Unfortunately there's no before pic but it was basically a ball of rust in the shape of a pistol. I have never re-cleaned it besides just dusting it off.



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#17 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 10:31 PM

Here's what brought this thread question up . My wife wanted a piece of welded wire fencing across the lower part of a sliding door screen . My daughter's dog hasn't figured out that jumping up on the door , ,any door isn't a good idea . Anyway the thin fencing had some rust and I realized that I used up the 8oz bottle of Rustoleum  Rust Reform . The local hardware store the used to carry it only had spray cans  , Walmart was supposed to have the 8oz bottle but after my wife drove 1/2 hour + toll they didn't ( another complaint sent to them ) they had the spray cans so she got one . She thought it would be easier I guess she never tried painting thin wire fencing , more paint ended up on the ground even when I tried holding the can a few inches away . So now I'm going to pick out a rust convertor type product  , hopefully in a larger container plus a few cans for those small jobs . We all know that it's a pita when you start a project ( reads : "The ruler of the house" wants a job done  ) and you don't have the materials on hand to finish .

While I am learning different thoughts on metal prep and rust in this discussion, it seems like you're going the long way around on this.

Why didn't you just buy some hardware cloth or welded wire fencing and be done with it?

#18 Alc OFFLINE  



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Posted June 30, 2017 - 05:32 AM

 JBR,  I had brand new hardware cloth but the ruler of the house ( wife )  found the welded wire that was taller and for my best interest I accommodated her command lol   


 I have some of my David Bradley implements that stay outside so those would  well with some type of coating .

Edited by Alc, June 30, 2017 - 05:34 AM.

#19 diesel nut OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2017 - 03:40 PM


Wicked stuff, not inexpensive , SEM products top shelf. Daniel ( olcowhand ) recommended it in one of his posts. Goes quite a ways, bought some pump sprayers at HD that screwed right into the bottle.
Two thumbs up ! When it tells you not to get it on your skin they mean it. Surprised will all the gov't regs you can still get something this potent.

I use this stuff all the time on anything I have that's rusty.  I've found that if you use their Rust-Shield paint over the top of it you can get at least 5 years on a truck frame that was driven pretty much only during and right after snow storms to plow before it starts to peel off and needs to be redone.  And X2 to the not getting it on your hands, plus you really don't want to breathe it in or get it on concrete.  I have a spot on the floor at work where it leaked and it actually ate into the cement on its way to the floor drain

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#20 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2017 - 08:08 PM

never had any luck with the "rust reformer" type products. I like POR 15 and an equivalent that is a few bux cheaper that is available near me called KBS coatings.

I asked my NAPA delivery guy/outside sales rep that comes by work and he had not heard of these, but has a product that so far seems equal to them and is UV stable.  I forget the name but it ends with "M/D"   it is a urethane based coating that like POR 15 is OK with blasted metal or rusty metal as long as you knock off the loose rust and scale.  He gave me a quart sample of the black, I went and bought 1qt of the white to try. I have not yet opened the free can of black but have used about 1/2 a can of the white.

He says the black flows out so you cannot tell it was rolled or brushed (I know the POR 15 is fantastic in that sense it looks like you sprayed it no matter how you apply it)   but the white  Napa product doesn't flow out as well. you can definitely tell it was brushed. Like POR15 it dries very hard.

I used that on the last Cub deck I redid, after I coated the underside with POR15 black. but for a worker it will do.... can always sand it and get the brush marks out later if need be.....

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