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1250 No Spark........Need Suggestions/Help


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#1 BolensHorse72 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 07:40 PM

Hey guys,    just got my 1250 back together and ready to fire up for the first time today..........turned the key and nothing.I knew it was getting gas so I pulled the plug to check for spark and I got NODDA.

I've gone over the wiring diagram 3-4 times and everything seems to be where it is supposed to be, tested the coil and I believe that is fine as well so its got me a bit stumped.Checked the points and they are working fine........is there a way to test the condensor? also,  one other thought is if the stator is bad ............Does anyone know a way to test that without getting into the machine too deep? Any help is greatly appreciated.  thanks!


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#2 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 08:33 PM

I would make sure the points are clean if you hadn't done that already?

Check to make sure you have 12v on coil+ with ign. key on.

No way to test the condenser properly for leakdown without an ECR tester.

Disconnect the coil, and condenser completely. Run a jumper from coil neg to batt neg. Then connect a jumper to POS on coil, and tap the other end on batt pos without condenser. Should see spark intermittently. If so, coil is more than likey good, and condenser is bad.

Unless its not the original engine, should not have a stator, and if it does, with points, the stator is for charging batt only.

Edited by stiemmy, June 26, 2017 - 08:40 PM.

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#3 BolensHorse72 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 10:43 PM

I would make sure the points are clean if you hadn't done that already?

Check to make sure you have 12v on coil+ with ign. key on.

No way to test the condenser properly for leakdown without an ECR tester.

Disconnect the coil, and condenser completely. Run a jumper from coil neg to batt neg. Then connect a jumper to POS on coil, and tap the other end on batt pos without condenser. Should see spark intermittently. If so, coil is more than likey good, and condenser is bad.

Unless its not the original engine, should not have a stator, and if it does, with points, the stator is for charging batt only.

Thank You for this info Stiemmy!  I did hit the points quickly with an emery board and they looked pretty good but i will do a more thorough job when the rain stops......if it ever does! And, I will run the test you mentioned above and hopefully find the issue. I appreciate it - BolensHorse72


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#4 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 12:13 AM

Thank You for this info Stiemmy!  I did hit the points quickly with an emery board and they looked pretty good but i will do a more thorough job when the rain stops......if it ever does! And, I will run the test you mentioned above and hopefully find the issue. I appreciate it - BolensHorse72


Anytime!!!!!

Please remember to blow out the points after you clean them too, as the grit can get stuck in there, and cause a NO contact situation;)
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#5 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 01:17 AM

It matters what type of test equipment you have. If you have a test light hook it between the - side of the coil and ground. With the key on and the points open you should have light, If so  turn the engine until the points are closed the light should go out. If no light unhook the points to coil wire If the light comes on now the points to coil wire or points were grounding If you still have no light move your test light lead to the + side of the coil. if no light at coil + either the coil is grounding internally which should have made smoke or blown a fuse. or the ignition switch, a fuse or the related wiring is bad. I have tested condensers by hooking them to the appropriate terminals of the battery and then in a very dark place  touching the lead to the case. Not seeing a spark is questionable if you see a tiny spark no question, it's good. A volt ohm meter can also be a great help. If you have one the test above still apply just translate having light as 12 volt + and no light as 0 volts. Charge your disconnected condenser  with a battery and then check it for voltage. When you hook the VOM to the condenser to the meter the voltage won't last long but you should see it. The better the meter the longer the voltage will last with a really good meter  you should se the meter go to battery voltage then taper back to 0. Good luck. Don 


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#6 Oldford OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 01:04 PM

Hey guys,    just got my 1250 back together and ready to fire up for the first time today..........turned the key and nothing.

Did it run before you took it apart? 


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#7 kjmweld OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 01:45 PM

Did it run before you took it apart?

I sold him the tractor & yes it did run very good, but sat over the winter, now he can't get spark. We're both trying to figure out why.
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#8 Oldford OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 01:58 PM

In old mechanic's terms something got "interrupted" when things got taken apart.   Or maybe something got rusted up over winter if it was all apart.  Did it sit outside?  If not i'd be guessing more along the "interrupted" route and start tracking down things that were changed in the ignition system.

 

He says the points work, does that mean they have spark? 

 

Also he says he turned the key and got "nothing"... what level of "nothing" does he mean?  does it not crank at all?  or crank and not fire the points?  or fire the points but not the plug?  if it's just a battery/points setup with no black box it's not a very complicated ignition system.

 

easiest way to check the points is to turn on the key and work the points open and closed with a screwdriver to see if they spark...

 

if the points are sparking but not the plug, i'd look at the plug wire.  is the plug new?  also is the negative on the distributor going to the points?  positive to 12v on the switch?  even with a bad condensor you should get popping or coughing when it cranks over.


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#9 BolensHorse72 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 02:40 PM

In old mechanic's terms something got "interrupted" when things got taken apart.   Or maybe something got rusted up over winter if it was all apart.  Did it sit outside?  If not i'd be guessing more along the "interrupted" route and start tracking down things that were changed in the ignition system.

 

He says the points work, does that mean they have spark? 

 

Also he says he turned the key and got "nothing"... what level of "nothing" does he mean?  does it not crank at all?  or crank and not fire the points?  or fire the points but not the plug?  if it's just a battery/points setup with no black box it's not a very complicated ignition system.

 

easiest way to check the points is to turn on the key and work the points open and closed with a screwdriver to see if they spark...

 

if the points are sparking but not the plug, i'd look at the plug wire.  is the plug new?  also is the negative on the distributor going to the points?  positive to 12v on the switch?  even with a bad condensor you should get popping or coughing when it cranks over.

no spark at the plug and now that it has been mentioned, i didnt see any spark at the points either. It cranks over fine but with zero spark.And yes,  wiring is correct via the diagram.  I'm going to double check to look for spark from the points and go from there. I REALLY appreciate the help so far................thank you guys!!


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#10 BolensHorse72 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 02:54 PM

I haven't had much experience working on points before so that part of it is new to me but it doesn't seem to be rocket science.

its basically gonna be eliminating one thing at a time until I find the culprit, lol. I'll keep you posted on what i find or don't find........


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#11 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 05:21 PM

Another thing to check is correct point gap and if your YD326 copper terminal strip is there to make contact with the bottom stud.


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#12 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 08:00 AM

AND, make sure that copper strap is not grounding out.   ...It should only touch the points and the insulated screw.

 

Make sure the insulators where the stud passes through the block casting are good, so that the stud does not contact any metal.


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#13 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 12:05 PM

I just went through all this with my 1250. Turns out that the condenser wire had a TINY bare spot and was grounding out on the points box in a spot that was not visible until I pulled out the condenser a second time...  and did a very close inspection. I decided to replace everything again that was just replaced two years ago, coil, plug, wire, points and condenser and problem gone. I'd double check for a bad wire and also for a short between the points screw and the rest of the tractor. There's a plastic insulating spacer in the bottom of the points box where the screw passes through. That insulates the wire to the coil from grounding to the main body of the tractor. If you get any continuity between the tractor and that screw then there is a short somewhere. I've never seen such a poor design in a tiny box as Wisconsin did with this setup. It's so hard to get all the pieces in place in that tiny box. Other than that it's a great engine and design good luck with it.


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#14 Bud W OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 02:19 PM

Check out the file attachment, it's based on the 1250 wiring diagram and uses a 12 volt test light.

Attached Files


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#15 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 08:15 AM

Thanks, Bud W, for posting that.

 

That pdf should go in the Manuals forum, if not already there.

 

That is one of the best flow charts for troubleshooting that I have seen.


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