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Rear Wheel Removal

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#1 alsparl OFFLINE  



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Posted June 26, 2017 - 02:34 PM

I need to gather some assistance on this unit if at all possible.  This unit belongs to an elderly man in my church and he is attempting to fix the right rear tire or replace it if it needs it.  No worries there.  He contacted me as his son had been attempting to get the rim off and it is stuck and will not budge.  I confirmed the "e-clip" has been removed and the axle shaft is clear.  He mentioned trying penetrating oil a number of times throughout the week.  They have tried hammer, sledges, and even trying to punch it from the back side with a pipe.  


I know nothing about this tractor as the attached pic is the first time I have seen it.  Per the B&S engine numbers, it is a 1991 unit +/- a year.  I would assume this wheel has a key way that is stuck but I could be wrong.  


With all that being said, I wanted to come here first before I went and looked at it for any ideas, experience, etc. to get this rim off.  I am assuming it does not have a set screw on the key way.  At this point, would "heat," as in heating the hub of the rim, be the best bet?  I know axle seals would be in line at that point.  Any help or suggestions would be provided.

Thank you for your time as it is appreciated.



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#2 alsparl OFFLINE  



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Posted June 26, 2017 - 02:39 PM

I apologize, I missed a little bit of information.  The owner did say it is a 16LTH model.  Thank you again.

#3 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 02:46 PM

I would try tire slime, a plug, or whatever to the tire if possible 1st, unless it's cracked really bad.

Most times people destroy the rims just trying to get them off.

May even consider some tire spoons, and trying to change it while still on the tractor as a last resort???
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#4 tater195 OFFLINE  


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Posted June 26, 2017 - 02:48 PM

It may be easier to remove the Tx and swap tires with the wheels still on the axle. I have fought several like that. If they dont come off with a little HnH, they probably wont without damaging something else. I dont have the patience for the soak and wait stuff. I have used the strongback from a 2 jaw puller and some long bolts through the wheels. That usually ends up with bent bolts and wheel centers.

Edited by tater195, June 26, 2017 - 02:49 PM.

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#5 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 05:39 PM

Those can be a real bugger to get off.  When the sit out they get rusted and seized on real good.  Like stiemmy said, put slime in it and run it.  If the tire is to far gone for that, cut the tire cross wise and then the bead.  Just don't bugger up the bead on the rim.  Then you can mount the new tire without taking the rim off.

#6 kjmweld ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 07:18 PM

Kind of looks like there's bigger issues then a flat tire looking at that puddle of oil under the front end below the motor.

#7 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 09:30 PM

yup.   and I just went thru that same headache on this Ariens YT. I tried (not very hard) to get the rims off the back end so I could tube them. I wound up breaking the tire beads down with the rims still mounted fast to the machine, as I certainly didn't want to damage anything, being I got the mower from the getgo, intended as a flip// so, a damaged wheel or transaxle would have sure guaranteed me to lose my behind on it... (not that I won't anyways as things are)

#8 EricFromPa ONLINE  



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Posted June 27, 2017 - 05:03 AM

Don't beat on it any more. Your very lucky it didn't snap the C clips on the axle inside the differential.


Do not use alot of heat unless you wrap the axle with a soaked wet rag to keep it cool enough so you don't burn up the axle seal. Most times all it takes is a enough heat to melt candle wax. Candle wax will wick the whole length of the axle inside the rim. I actually Just had to use this trick yesterday on a CV axle that was rusted fast inside the hub on a 95 Honda Accord. It helped alot more than PB Blaster because it wicks through the rust like water does in a sponge.


Get yourself a Harmonic balancer puller like this one harmonic-balancer-Puller.jpg There dirt cheap at harbor freight. Use the 2 holes that are allready in the rim for 2 bolts and put heavy washers and nuts on the back side.Use a little heat if you have to but they usually come off with just the puller.



Or pop the tire off the bead and put a tube in it while it's still on the tractor.It's a pain in the butt BUT some times it's the only way short of cutting the rim off of the axle.


Decent video that may help.


Alot of the time if you use heat the rust will ball up in the inside and make it worse.The rims are made of some pretty soft steel and the axle is hard tempered steel. Very easy to Gaul up between the 2 different metals. That's also why you don't use a low grade nut on a high grade bolt or vice versa because they will Gaul and pull the threads out.



If it still won't come off sacrifice the rim. Use a hole saw that's made to cut metal and cut the rim off the hub.Then cut a slit on both sides and split it off the axle. I've only had to do this 3 times. 2 rims on a tractor that sat outside in the weeds for roughly 15 years with flat tires and 1 rim on a tractor that sat in a damp garage.


I busted a couple transaxles before I learned not to beat on the rims with a sledge hammer.

Edited by EricFromPa, June 27, 2017 - 05:09 AM.

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#9 alsparl OFFLINE  



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Posted December 22, 2017 - 10:03 PM

Just a quick update on this, I have tried the little bit of heat method, enough to work candle wax, the harmonic balancer, and nothing.  I contacted a somewhat local Simplicity dealer and the mechanic laughed at me when I told him what I was trying to do.  He said this series of tractor was known for this issue.  Most of the time he had to sacrifice the rim by the above method by torching off the main part of the rim then using an angle grinder with cut off wheel to split the hub, just like Eric said.  Unfortunately, as I looked at the rim, I see it is beat up pretty bad.  I had to use a Dremel and smooth the external axle shaft to allow the rim to come off, if it were to come off.  And when I jacked the one side up, I see hyd fluid seeping out now.  Ugh  Looks like they may have hit it pretty good.  Never experienced one this bad before. 


So onto the front of the engine to find the oil leak; valve cover gasket or engine oil seal are my guesses.  Checking the solenoid as well as the starting motor doesn't like to disengage either. 


Thanks all and have a great night.